Battery Disconnect Switch

[GreensvilleJay]

re: So what’s the safe way of replacing the battery?
Maybe have dealer do it ? If HE fries the ECM, it's HIS fault !

What I don't understand is HOW the changing of a battery fries the ECM. Pproviding the key is OFF(sitting on workbench) ZERO current is flowing from battery so ECM cannot get fried. Would have to see the wiring diagram of the 'problem' tractors and be nice to have a fried ECM so I can understand this.
One problem with 'newer' vehicles is 24/7 power to alarm computer and some other stuff.

It'd also be nice to see the official Kubota 'battery installation' procedure paperwork !!!

 

[lmichael]

What are they building, Section 8 housing? Just because there are houses there does not mean they'll be populated with a bunch of thieves. If they're affluent homes, odds are you will not have any issues.
Or, are you near a city with a lot of crime? Like say Rockford IL (on FBI's most dangerous list)
Overall though, houses don't necessarily = crime/criminals

 

[GreensvilleJay]

gee around here they do... ! people build megamansions(1.5 - 3 mill$ ) on 1 acre lots.THEY aren't criminals, but the criminals 'visit' the neighbourhood often and 'stuff goes missing'.......
Cops were at one house 3 times in one week,hauled off a BMW and a rental van ! Also have 2-3 homeless camps down by the World famous creek......
city also allowed 'teen rehab center' mile north of me. ZERO kid kontrol....FIVE barns were burnt down in 2 years. They were 'generational farms', 100 years+. Only ONE remains ( 7 generations ) .

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Unfortunately, after studying thieving for years, @North Idaho Wolfman and @Old Machinist are correct, you need a secure building and cameras so thieves don't see it and don't want to steal it, because as @mikester said they show up with a truck and winch it on quickly, they don't try to start it. If it takes more than 10 minutes to steal (5 if they're good thieves) the risk is usually too high.

 

[mcmxi]

Sadly there are quite a bit of Kubota ECM's that do not like the spike or voltage drop of disconnecting the battery and have been known to fry them.
I think any of the newer ECM's they have fixxed that issue, but I wouldn't want to risk it.

All I know is that I've disconnected the batteries on both tractors multiple times with no issues. I've done a fair amount of welding on both tractors what with D-rings and custom exhaust systems, hence removing the negative terminal to reduce the chance of problems.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: Sadly there are quite a bit of Kubota ECM's that do not like the spike or voltage drop of disconnecting the battery and have been known to fry them.

So HOW is disconnecting the battery different than turning the key off ?? Unless of course ,turning the key off does NOT actually stop the flow of electrons... which of course means ,one day tractor won't start as the batteries empty....
Everyone that has ACTUALLY designed/built equipment for 'automotive use' KNOWS there are well known methods to PROTECT the 'computer' from 'frying'.

 

[jyoutz]

re: Sadly there are quite a bit of Kubota ECM's that do not like the spike or voltage drop of disconnecting the battery and have been known to fry them.

So HOW is disconnecting the battery different than turning the key off ?? Unless of course ,turning the key off does NOT actually stop the flow of electrons... which of course means ,one day tractor won't start as the batteries empty....
Everyone that has ACTUALLY designed/built equipment for 'automotive use' KNOWS there are well known methods to PROTECT the 'computer' from 'frying'.

I would like to know what the “correct” method for disconnecting the battery is since this is a potential problem. I once disconnected terminals to install the connections for auxiliary lights with no issues. Maybe I got lucky?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

'correct'..... IF +12 of battery goes to 'main switch' that then feeds the tractor......
option 'a'

1) turn 'main switch' to off position
2) remove ground cable from battery
3) remove +ve cable from battery
4) remove battery.

option 'b'.
email Kubota and print out their reply,save a copy.,
then do what they say,
have lawyer and 2 witnesses present when you do what Kubota says.....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I do not have a full list of the tractors that it effected, I will look to see if I can find it.
It was a handful of L's if I remember right.
I have not heard of BX,B, older L's, MX's, or M's that had a problem with this.

I'm not even really sure if the problem was more of a battery disconnect or low voltage situation that caused the real issues.
I will look into this for everyone.

There was a quite service bulletin ( Address if tractor had specific symptoms or codes on service) on this too if I remember right.

There is also an independent ECU / ECM repair/ rebuilder that can fix the issue permanently, for a much smaller cost than a new or rebuilt ECU / ECM.
I will try and find this information too.

If I had one of the tractors in question I would keep up on battery maintenance and if I had to change a battery I would probably go through the effort of doing a hot swap.
Yes it would be a pain in the backside but cheaper than a new ECU.
Or I would just spring to have the ECU rebuilt before it left me stranded.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

'correct'..... IF +12 of battery goes to 'main switch' that then feeds the tractor......
option 'a'

1) turn 'main switch' to off position
2) remove ground cable from battery
3) remove +ve cable from battery
4) remove battery.

option 'b'.
email Kubota and print out their reply,save a copy.,
then do what they say,
have lawyer and 2 witnesses present when you do what Kubota says.....

You handing out "legal advice" is like giving a glass of water to someone drowning.
Yea not very useful!

 

[Tarmy]

I know that I am not the only one that has welded various things on their tractor. My tractor is an 09’ and doesn’t have a bunch of electronic gizmos…never had any issues running that current thru the frame…

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I know that I am not the only one that has welded various things on their tractor. My tractor is an 09’ and doesn’t have a bunch of electronic gizmos…never had any issues running that current thru the frame…

The #1 electronic device that gets fried on motorized equipment is the Alternator.

 

[Tarmy]

The #1 electronic device that gets fried on motorized equipment is the Alternator.

So, should I be disconnecting that if I weld on on the tractor? I have seen on various welding forums that the battery should be disconnected…never heard anything about the alt.

I am certainly open to learning something here…

 

[jyoutz]

I do not have a full list of the tractors that it effected, I will look to see if I can find it.
It was a handful of L's if I remember right.
I have not heard of BX,B, older L's, MX's, or M's that had a problem with this.

I'm not even really sure if the problem was more of a battery disconnect or low voltage situation that caused the real issues.
I will look into this for everyone.

There was a quite service bulletin ( Address if tractor had specific symptoms or codes on service) on this too if I remember right.

There is also an independent ECU / ECM repair/ rebuilder that can fix the issue permanently, for a much smaller cost than a new or rebuilt ECU / ECM.
I will try and find this information too.

If I had one of the tractors in question I would keep up on battery maintenance and if I had to change a battery I would probably go through the effort of doing a hot swap.
Yes it would be a pain in the backside but cheaper than a new ECU.
Or I would just spring to have the ECU rebuilt before it left me stranded.

Thanks Wolfman, this information would be very useful for all of us with tier 4 tractors. Also, can you explain what is a hot swap battery replacement?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So, should I be disconnecting that if I weld on on the tractor? I have seen on various welding forums that the battery should be disconnected…never heard anything about the alt.

I am certainly open to learning something here…

Yes it's a very good practice to remove the ground cable when welding on them.

Thanks Wolfman, this information would be very useful for all of us with tier 4 tractors. Also, can you explain what is a hot swap battery replacement?

You supply 12V to the system via a pair of jumper cables then remove the old battery and install a new one.
Thus the system never see's a drop in voltage.

 

[jyoutz]

Yes it's a very good practice to remove the ground cable when welding on them.



You supply 12V to the system via a pair of jumper cables then remove the old battery and install a new one.
Thus the system never see's a drop in voltage.

So you use the jumpers from another battery and clip to the cable terminals before removing the tractor battery?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So you use the jumpers from another battery and clip to the cable terminals before removing the tractor battery?

Yep, I connect right at the starter to keep the clutter down where your working on the battery.

 

[Tarmy]

Yes it's a very good practice to remove the ground cable when welding on them.



You supply 12V to the system via a pair of jumper cables then remove the old battery and install a new one.
Thus the system never see's a drop in voltage.

I knew about the ground strap…

My text is not clear…I was asking if I should disconnect the alternator as well?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I knew about the ground strap…

My text is not clear…I was asking if I should disconnect the alternator as well?

Nope no need when you remove the ground you remove the loop that kills it.

 

[lmichael]

And here I thought Canada was supposed to be so "nice"