I'm in the process of purchasing a BX1880... just waiting for the delivery. I originally just bought the tractor, front snowblower and a plow blade with hydraulic angle. After reading a lot of posts on this form a decided to get a loader also. Is it necessary to get a ballast box when you get a front end loader? A couple of years ago I purchased a BX 2360 and the dealer said it was automatic that if you get the loader that you must get a ballast box! Any input from you guys would be appreciated!
Ballast box
- Thread starter Smibota
- Start date
Automatic?....no. Smart? Yes.
The ballast box takes the weight off of the front axle, lowers the center of gravity and gives you much more control and traction...it also lessens the chance of you winding up on your side. When you get your tractor the owners manual will tell you how much weight is ideal. Some owners use ballast in the tires but this does not take any weight off of the front axle.
The ballast box takes the weight off of the front axle, lowers the center of gravity and gives you much more control and traction...it also lessens the chance of you winding up on your side. When you get your tractor the owners manual will tell you how much weight is ideal. Some owners use ballast in the tires but this does not take any weight off of the front axle.
If you have a heavy 3 pt implement, you can just use that, but something like a mower may get in the way. You should definitely have something back there if you are lifting anything significant with the loader.
Thanks guys for your replies! I added the ballast box to my order figuring the weight in the box will be good to have in the snow and while using the loader. My machine is being delivered on Saturday!
I got an 1880 this past spring. You have got to be real careful with a full load if you don't have a ballast box. I had a full load of topsoil and almost tipped it. It is real tipsy when turning especially. I have since added weight to the rear, but be extra cautious.
Jeff
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Jeff
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I posted this in the Fab section so excuse the duplication:
I have noticed that these ballast boxes are positioned in the middle of the 3pt. Is that the optimal positioning of ballast? Reason I ask is that I hang 2 metal plates off my blade by hooks and I can put them just about anywhere along that 7' span. Normally on my 8N I had them equal distant from the middle (3pt) to the ends but don't know why.
I have noticed that these ballast boxes are positioned in the middle of the 3pt. Is that the optimal positioning of ballast? Reason I ask is that I hang 2 metal plates off my blade by hooks and I can put them just about anywhere along that 7' span. Normally on my 8N I had them equal distant from the middle (3pt) to the ends but don't know why.
My salesman said with a BX no ballast was needed due to the limitations of the FEL, and I could lift a full capacity bucket no problem. In my situation, it would be extremely rare for me to ever try. I have no ballast, and no plans to get any. If I pick up a FEL full of rock and end up rocking (ha!) I'll reconsider some sort of ballast.
I live on a pretty steep hill. I have also been moving a ton of stone for hardscaping for drainage etc. Hill+FEL full = bad news.
Im just curious if I need the ballast box if I take off that loader. Im suspecting I can just drop it even on a hill.
Having the ballast box on and keeping it low wont hurt anything and will possibly give you better rear traction. When running a FEL you need to have some sort of rear ballast - at least either an implement or a ballast box.
I always did you don't need, or want, all that FEL and ballast box weight on your lawn.
Yeah well he's right it doesn't lift all that much but it's also light in the rear.
I'll just add this. Three years ago my friend started driving his brand new BX down his fairly steep concrete driveway with a bucket of dirt and no rear ballast. The rear tires lost traction letting the tractor increase speed, when the rear came off the ground and the tractor started tipping he jumped off and watched his tractor crash and tumble down the driveway destroying itself. Everything was bent up including the ROPS which was bent completely over to one side. Fortunately in that case he wasn't strapped in, and thankfully his homeowners covered the totaled tractor.
When going down a steep drive/hill with a load, front or back (like a trailer), I would recommend using 4WD for that reason exactly. The rear tires are where your brakes are too, so without the front wheels engaged if you hit some loose gravel or ice and you have no control. It only takes a second for things to go sideways and then you are in a runaway situation.
Generally, as a tractor sits there with no implements front or rear and you sitting on it, its fairly well balanced front to rear(front is probably still a little heavier with the engine unless you have Big rear tires filled with ballast liquid). If you add a front implement, you should add rear weight (ballast box or implement to counter). If you add a rear implement, you should add front weight (loader or front weights). With a full loader it becomes more critical and dangerous because not only do you have alot of weight out front, but you raise it up high and all that weight is on a pivot point on the front axle, too. I wonder why something like articulating steering loader type machines, that don't have a pivoting axle at the loader end (rear axle pivots if any), never were developed to work with farming type ground engaging equipment. The BIGGEST Tractors are articulating but not small ones ...?... 
Absolutely, that's what I pointed out to him. But the fact it tipped up on its front wheels without them braking illustrates that whether in 4wd or not, it was going to tip. Too light in the rear, too much weight in front, too steep a drive.
Heck I find on my tractor with the bucket filled it doesn't take much for the rear tires to loose traction and spin, and that's with a ballast box.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Carrying the ballast box without the front loader should not be a problem unless you are going up a very steep incline. Always carry it low to the ground and if it touches the ground it should not be a problem other than making a mark in the grass.
Luckily my land is bumpy, but flat, so that danger is reduced and the bumpiness keeps my speed down. I will keep this in mind if I ever help a buddy out and encounter this type of scenario though. I have mine financed, so it's full replacement insurance with Kubota.
i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
Think about a FEL as a see-saw, front axle as the pivot point, anything behind front axle (even loaded tires) = ballast. Ballast boxes or rear implements provide extra leverage - tractor frame carries the weight.
Loaded tires - extra weight resting on ground, applied to frame if FEL tries to lift rear axle.
Two different pivot points.
1. Avoiding the back wheels coming off the ground. Any weight behind the front axles helps with this - for the rear wheels to lift anything behind the front axle must also be lifted. Loaded tires help with this, heavier tractor helps, ballast helps, an operator who drinks more beer helps
2. Reducing the load on the front axle. Loads on the loader put a lot of pressure on the front axle, and the front axle is usually smaller than the rear. Any weight behind the rear wheels has the effect of using the rear axle as a pivot, and putting upward pressure on the front axle - i.e removing weight from the front axle. Only things behind the rear wheels do this - so a ballast box or rear implement has the additional benefit of reducing loading on the front axle.
For this reason, I prefer a ballast box or a rear implement to loaded tires. I also mow with my machine, and I'd rather not have the weight on the lawn when I don't need it - a ballast box can be removed, loaded tires not so easily.
Having said that, loaded tires are very good for hill stability when going across the hill - which a ballast box does little for. Horses for courses. I guess spacers also help with that, so it's possible to get similar benefit without loaded tires.