Ballast Box Cement Fill

[msmcknight]

Hi Guys,

I've got a ballast box that I want to fill with cement/concrete. Unfortunately, I'm new at this and had no idea there was a difference between cement and concrete, much less what makes them up.

So... for you guys out there that have filled a ballast box with cement/concrete, or made your own using such material, what kind did you use? There are so many types, I'm lost.

I've looked at my local Lowe's and Home Depot and they have portland cement mix, Quikrete, Type-S, mortar mix, etc. They seem to come in various densities with some bags weighing 50lbs and others 100lbs.

The more specific (ie. brand/mix name) would be helpful. If I can't find it locally, I can google it to find a similar product.

Also, if you can give any tips on how you mixed it... mix to water ratio, did you mix in a bucket and pour it into the ballast box or just mix it in the box?

I'd like to use the densest, heaviest mix available... if it's available to consumers.

Thanks to you all in advance!
-Michael

 

[BAP]

But the cheapest Sakrete mix you can find. It should be a mix of Portland Cement, the binding agent and stones and sand. All you are using it for is weight so it doesn’t need to be fancy.

 

[Mike.O]

Any of the above work. Get the cheapest one on the shelf. The density will all be similar, within a few PCF of each other. A general rule of thumb is concrete has a density of 150 LB/CF so you can gauge accordingly.
Water to cement ratio is really only important for strength purposes, which this isn't, but try to follow what it says on the bag. Mix in a wheelbarrow and pour in.

 

[85Hokie]

As others have said, for your purpose - either of the mixes will work well. If you are "tight" on money and want to stretch the mix - get the cheapest bag you can find (quikrete - $4 or so per #80 bag)

Mix in the wheel barrow - add a scoop of gravel to the mix, as much as you can muster, and then repeat with each bag.

ONE bag of #80 mix will make approx. 2/3 of a cubic foot. So.........lets say your "box" is 2' wide, by 2' tall by 2' deep.....that is 8 cf ......and then divide that by .667 ...and you need 12 bags!!!! That will be about 960 pounds of weight!!! No one says you have to fill the form to the top!

Have you made the ballast box yet? If not - consider making a "carry all" - this will be something that will weight 100 lbs or more dry, then you can add ANYTHING to it to make the weight match your needs.

 

[Creature Meadow]

I filled (6) 5 gallon buckets with misc broken bricks and blocks I found around the farm then mixed 4 bags of Sakrete and poured in buckets. Added tops and now I have bout 80#'s ballast per bucket I can sit on my carryall.

Cost $14.00, found cement on sale for bout $3.50 ea., bricks and blocks free and helped clean up woods. Buckets came from friend who paints.

I too live in NC, should be no problem to get 80# bags for under $4.00.

 

[lordulrich]

Concrete is what you want. Cement is the grey powder that when mixed with water forms a hydrate that holds together rock and sand which forms concrete. Quickcrete and Sackcrete are both brands both are fine. Most of the time what someone talks about with Quickcrete or Sackcrete they are talking about a bagged premix that contains Portland cement sand and course aggregate in the right proportions to mix with water. Mortar is for sticking brick or blocks together. A 50 lb or 100 lb bag is just a bigger bag.

The numbers are comprehensive strengths not densities (I've never seen a density listed on a bag, unless you get something exotic the densities are going to be pretty close). The aggregate used, which will be somewhat within each brand variable is the biggest factor on the densities. With something the size of a ballast box a slightly higher density concrete mix is not going to be significant.

Mixing it in the ballast box is OK but make sure to get the corners mixed, add a little water, concrete mix, then mix it repeat until done. Try to get your W/C ratio close but don't get too fussy. Water is a critical part of the final product (it reacts with the cement to form the solid, it does not dry). Too much water and it won't set but too little and you won't get full advantage of the weight the water can provide.

Now I've given you probably way more info than you wanted, sorry I tried to keep it as high level as possible. Bottom line get the cheapest mix you can per pound.

 

[Missouribound]

I didn't see anyone ask so I will. What tractor are you using this on? You need to make sure it's heavy enough to do it's counterbalance job but not so heavy your 3 point won't lift it. Concrete bags work fine and you can adjust the weight as needed....unless you are just making a concrete block. And the difference between concrete and cement is exactly like the difference between a cake and flour. You need one to make the other.

 

[msmcknight]

It's for a B2601. Looking to add about 5cu.ft. to the ballast box. At ~150lbs/cu.ft, I think that gives me around 750lbs + 132lbs for the weight of the box totaling 880lbs

 

[tlefire]

This is what I made. Use 10 bags of premixed concrete. I think they were about 4 dollars a bag. Made the form. Weighs about 870 pounds.

I went to the local cement company and ask about filling from trucks coming back from jobs that may have extra concrete left over. Company says they don't do that. All left over concrete dumped in a hole. But I could buy a yard and they would deliver. So I ask, you would rather dump it in a hole than let me buy it. Yep.