Backhoe BT750B Auto return conversion to Manual

[Ken speirs]

OK. What are you harvesting BTW, if you don't mind me asking? Down here in the mid-south US, cotton picking is about to wrap up. Corn and early soybeans were a couple of months ago, as I recall. Wheat beans, planted after winter wheat if grown, are about ready. Those are the big 3. Vardaman, Ms, which calls itself the "Sweet Potato Capitol of the World", is about 50 miles south of my Ms place. About a month ago when I was down there, I saw a bus loaded with what I suspected was workers. A few days later I saw a truck loaded with sweet potatoes in crates, headed for Vardaman I'd guess. Support Ms, eat more yams! Now back to business; I'm surprised you've dedicated this much effort to this.

I don't know what information is available on the Canadian site. There is a BT750C version for the B20 (as well as 2 versions of the -B, if you weren't aware). The -C appears to be a -B without the auto return. That's where I got the section prices I posted earlier, BTW. So, theoretically, we're converting your -B to a -C; although I haven't compared any part numbers and have no way to know for sure if they're interchangeable. With that said, I'm going to use the BT750C parts figure to explain the linkage needed.

View attachment 180501
Heck, this is almost too easy. You'll need to duplicate, mirrored, part 010 to be like 020. Weld that peg on the side, I think you stated you're a welder. Instead of a groove to hold a cir-clip, I'd just drill it for a cotter pin. The rod end 060 is less than $20 from Kubota, so I'd use it. Rod 2, 090, is $75!, and won't work with the tang valve anyway. I think that the threads in 060 are 3/8"-24. Buy a 3/8" NF bolt, cut the head off to the appropriate length, cut a notch to straddle the tang, and drill a hole for the pin 110. Round the end of the bolt so it can swivel around the tang without binding. If you're feeling flush, you can buy 110 from Kubota for $12+ ea. I see screws and nuts on some of your sections. I drilled cotter pin holes in a nail for mine.

If you use a section with a clevis, you'll need to cut/grind the end into a tang instead of a fork.

Here in the mountains of BC above Idaho were Harvesting Potatoes, onions, winter squash, beans, broccoli, apples, rabbits and preserving and acting as a hub for other local farmers to sell theirs...
Yes, Ive wondered about the other versions of backhoes.
I called the dealer today and seems that there are no parts available for my version BT750B, except I did order the metal surround, 6 weeks out it looks like. I'll call on the C version tomorrow.
those instructions are all making sense now that I'm getting into this project more.
Your guideance is remarkable, thank you so much.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Here in the mountains of BC above Idaho were Harvesting Potatoes, onions, winter squash, beans, broccoli, apples, rabbits and preserving and acting as a hub for other local farmers to sell theirs...
Yes, Ive wondered about the other versions of backhoes.
I called the dealer today and seems that there are no parts available for my version BT750B, except I did order the metal surround, 6 weeks out it looks like. I'll call on the C version tomorrow.
those instructions are all making sense now that I'm getting into this project more.
Your guideance is remarkable, thank you so much.

I'm glad it's starting to make sense.
According to Messick's pricing
010 $205 if it would fit
060 $17
090 $75 fits oem only
Valve section $786 + 186x2 $1158 with reliefs

 

[Ken speirs]

I'm glad it's starting to make sense.
According to Messick's pricing
010 $205 if it would fit
060 $17
090 $75 fits oem only
Valve section $786 + 186x2 $1158 with reliefs

Is the above option #2 replacing the whole valve spool via Messi’s? As opposed to your one valve option and and my fabricated linkage and possibly adapting hydraulic hose fittings?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Is the above option #2 replacing the whole valve spool via Messi’s? As opposed to your one valve option and and my fabricated linkage and possibly adapting hydraulic hose fittings?

Yes, but to be clear, you'll be replacing the section. The spool is just part of a section, the movable part that controls flow.

I posted those prices in post #42 merely to show how much it would cost to buy new OEM parts.

 

[Ken speirs]

I’ve labeled all hydraulic hoses, took photos of each step and removed the spool and damaged metal housing and removed the last individual section of the spool making sure not to loose the springs and the o rings. How do we understand if the section you have will fit? Also, I’m wondering with the removal of the 7 th hydraulic section on the spool, I’m hoping that the 3 bolts aren’t too long. What’s next?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I’ve labeled all hydraulic hoses, took photos of each step and removed the spool and damaged metal housing and removed the last individual section of the spool making sure not to loose the springs and the o rings. How do we understand if the section you have will fit? Also, I’m wondering with the removal of the 7 th hydraulic section on the spool, I’m hoping that the 3 bolts aren’t too long. What’s next?

It'll fit. The spool connection is different and the adapters in the valve may be different. My section has #6 BSPP ports, so you'll need a 9002-xx-06 straight adapter and a 9059-xx-06 adjustable 90 adapter, where xx is the swivel size of your hoses. I don't think your existing ones will fit. Do the ends on the hoses that came off that section fit the same as the ones on the other sections?

The threads on the tie rods will need to be longer by the thickness of the spacer. The spacer has to come off for the new linkage to line up. That's a 3/8" NF and 2-5/16" NC rods.

I'd like to see a wide angle picture of the console where the valve mounts.

I would reassemble that valve loosely until you are ready to swap sections, so pieces don't get lost and debris won't get in. You could go ahead and thread the rods.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

A

I’m wondering if once I replace the far right section of this spool with a manual section ( offered previously n this thread, not sure if im use ing the correct terminology) if I’d have all the parts needed. It seams to me that the right lever need to be connected to the last hydrolic spool section somehow as I looked at one that was converted to manual on a Facebook b20 group. I’d like to post tat image for you all but I don’t know how to transfer a video off of Facebook and place here. I hope this post is clear enough.

Andy Clark, who authored the post on Facebook, got his section on eBay for ~$100. It's for a Komatsu forklift and is Komatsu's part number HU5002-V5. There aren't any listed right now on eBay and the dealer price is over $1,000. It doesn't have port reliefs. Just FYI

 

[Ken speirs]

It'll fit. The spool connection is different and the adapters in the valve may be different. My section has #6 BSPP ports, so you'll need a 9002-xx-06 straight adapter and a 9059-xx-06 adjustable 90 adapter, where xx is the swivel size of your hoses. I don't think your existing ones will fit. Do the ends on the hoses that came off that section fit the same as the ones on the other sections?

The threads on the tie rods will need to be longer by the thickness of the spacer. The spacer has to come off for the new linkage to line up. That's a 3/8" NF and 2-5/16" NC rods.

I'd like to see a wide angle picture of the console where the valve mounts.

I would reassemble that valve loosely until you are ready to swap sections, so pieces don't get lost and debris won't get in. You could go ahead and thread the rods.

Here’s a photo of the area of the backhoe that the spool valve mounts. I’ve removed it to straighten some of the framing it mounts to and I’ve ordered a replacement.
yes the end of the hoses are the same.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Here’s a photo of the area of the backhoe that the spool valve mounts. I’ve removed it to straighten some of the framing it mounts to and I’ve ordered a replacement.
yes the end of the hoses are the same.

Oh no, you did it just like I told you to! Hope you took good pictures, I won't be much help reassembling it. I see they have provided the new holes you'll need for the narrower stack without the spacer. That piece that supports the joysticks may have some bushings in it that you'll need to reuse, don't discard it.