B8200D awakening

[CCox]

I have been given a B8200D from a longtime friend. I had attempted to buy it several years ago when he bought another CUT. At the time, he was sentimentally attached and did not want to give it up. Last week he called me and told me it was mine to take. Very generous. He warned me that he'd not started it in 2 years. I just need to get it started, lift the brush hog and disconnect it from the tractor.

I stopped by Saturday and assessed its condition. I'd run it several years ago but hadn't seen it in several years. It was stored in a nice dry equipment shed. Mice nested in front of the radiator. Fuel was shut off and the tank was full. Oil was on the stick but dark. I will do complete fluid changes when I get it home. Brakes are present but untested since its immobile at the moment.

Today, I stopped by after work and put a jump pack on it. Battery was dead. I pulled it and have put it on the charger. I will load test it tomorrow.

My plan is to reinstall the recharged battery or replace it if its bad. When I attempt to start it, what I remember was that on a cold start, I need to energize the glow plugs for 30-60 seconds. What I don't remember was that the switch was spring loaded to the glow plug side. Do I hold that position or just hit it once? The decompression rod is stiff so I am hoping I can free that up with some machine oil. Assuming no electrical issues exist, should there be anything else to be concerned with prior to getting it started and letting it idle for 30 minutes?

 

[D2Cat]

Since you received a free tractor and I'm guessing you're going to keep it, why not just start with a new battery. That will eliminate starting questions this coming winter, and save you putting in a battery to only have to remove it. And while your working with the battery, clean and inspect the cables at both ends. Remove the neg. cable at the frame and clean the cable and the frame before bolting it back on. If there is any greenish color to the wires just replace them. You're working on a 35 year old tractor and my be on the original battery wires.

The GP activation is counter clockwise. 20-25 seconds should be plenty (if you have good batteries) to start.

I would not mess with the decompression until you get all the other bugs worked out and have it running. With a good battery, and glow plugs the decompression is not necessary.

Be sure to remove and inspect the air filter. Got to have air, fuel and compression....and you're set.

 

[Roadworthy]

You will have to physically hold the glow plug switch for the allotted time. Don't forget to turn on the fuel.

 

[wgator]

If you don't already have the operators manual DOWN LOAD IT BY CLICKING HERE.
Since fuel was shut off and it hasn't been run in 2 years, I would bleed the fuel system per page 32 (pdf page 35) in the manual before attempting to start.

 

[shootem604]

I went through this process with the L245 that hadn't been run in a number of years. It got new fluids, filters, etc. Free up or replace the decompression cable/knob to help you crank it over to bleed the fuel system. I would also make sure the water pump is free turning (if it has one?) - mine was just frozen from sitting and needed to be removed, cleaned out, and then spun freely again.

 

[CCox]

Thank you all for your responses. It will be a keeper but also has to be my worker because I will part with a garden tractor with its implements to justify another.

I have downloaded the owner's manual and parts list. Looking for the WSM for it at a reasonable price. Firmly believe in following manufacturers' SMs for repairs. I am also tracking down a belly mower and would really like to find an end loader and backhoe. Probably picking up a back blade first for the winter and have a line on a post hole digger which will put to good use in the spring. Any recommendations or leads on where to search for the WSM and used FEL and BH would be appreciated.

A couple of questions that I have as I anticipate getting it running this weekend:

1. Is there a big difference in fuel between summer and winter blends?
2. If I drain and refill with fresh, when does winter blend arrive at the pump. My plan is to get it started on highway (taxed) diesel but then by ag diesel later.
3. The distance to my home is about 1.25 miles and I plan to drive it home. I'd prefer to change fluids at home, pressure wash and sort out some other things. Any issues with waiting on the changes until I get it home?

Thanks again guys.

 

[sheepfarmer]

The only thing I would worry about is gunking up your fuel lines if that tank of fuel is full of algae chunks. Can you suck it out, checking for material, and replace with new fuel? Adding one of the algicides that are reported to dissolve existing algae clumps.

 

[D2Cat]

There is a difference between summer and winter fuel blends.

The only difference between on road and off road diesel fuel is the amount of road tax you pay at the pump. The fuel is exactly the same with the exception of the red dye to indicate to the tax dept. no tax has been paid.

Is your tractor a geared or HST machine? I have a belly mower for a B8200 geared tractor. You would need the brackets to mount it to the tractor.

It would probably be much easier to just use a 3pt finish mower. Much easier to get on and off also.

 

[CCox]

Its a geared tractor, D2. I may have the brackets on the tractor. Need to get it home to be sure. I'd be interested. My only reluctance to a finish mower is the overall length. I do see a lot of them listed on the sale site apps. I have hilly property so I thought the belly mower would be a better and closer cut but I have never had anything but belly mowers (wheelhorse, scag, gravely). Opinions to enlighten me are welcome.

Sheepfarmer, are you referring to enzymes for the fuel. I noticed one or two at the parts store the other day. Will that work with what's in the tank or should I use that after draining off the tank and starting fresh?

 

[Russell King]

If available, ask your friend if he treated the fuel with algaecide or anti-gel and make decisions based on that information.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[motorhead]

If that tractor has sat, not running for a few years, BEFORE you try to turn it over with the starter, turn the engine over by hand with a wrench on the crank at least two whole revolutions to make sure no valves are stuck. A piston hitting a stuck valve will damage the valve, maybe a piston or could bend a rod. Just a preventative check. Don't excessively crank the starter and overheat it.

 

[CapnDean]

What motorhead said! Best thing you could do in order:
New Battery, Free up Decompression lever, Drain fuel and refill, replace fuel filter, ensure oil level is good, Bar engine over by hand without compression (pretty easy with no comp)
Graduate to spinning over with starter and no compression in order to get fuel up to the cylinders and also get em lubricated. Then HIT IT! You'll be surprised how simple an old Kubota engine is

 

[motorhead]

I would strongly suggest setting the valve clearances also. Any tight valves will hinder starting.

 

[Henro]

....My only reluctance to a finish mower is the overall length...Opinions to enlighten me are welcome.

Sheepfarmer, are you referring to enzymes for the fuel. I noticed one or two at the parts store the other day. Will that work with what's in the tank or should I use that after draining off the tank and starting fresh?

I had a rear finish mower when I first bought my tractor. It cut real nice, but the problem I had was cutting around things. I have a small pond and as I cut around it the back end of the tractor swung the finish mower away from the pond’s edge. Same story for just about anything else you want to cut around. Very nice of you have lots of straight cuts without many curves.

I find the MMM much better for cutting around things.

As for the old fuel, why risk it? I would drain as much out as possible. Would change the fuel filter as well. YMMV.

 

[CCox]

Pleased to say that I was able to turn the engine several rotations. The compression release is not easily moved so I will wait on that until I can get it home and pull the valve cover. What are the 3 small covers on the valve cover?

I also drew a mason jar of fuel. Doesn't look wet or cloudy. Called my auto parts store yesterday to get three filters ordered. Those arrived today and I will install the fuel filter tomorrow after work. With any luck, I will attempt to start it tomorrow after I swap it out.

Pulled the front wheels to bring home to fill. Unthreaded a third of the wheel studs. Was it common to have flat washer and lock washer on each?

I did find a few brackets underneath when I jacked up the rear to rotate the wheels. I'll post those from my phone.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

 

[D2Cat]

Those three covers are to check the valve position in relation to the decompression lever and to make adjustments. Your problem is probably only a lack of use and needs some PB Blaster and movement to get it working.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pleased to say that I was able to turn the engine several rotations. The compression release is not easily moved so I will wait on that until I can get it home and pull the valve cover. What are the 3 small covers on the valve cover?

I also drew a mason jar of fuel. Doesn't look wet or cloudy. Called my auto parts store yesterday to get three filters ordered. Those arrived today and I will install the fuel filter tomorrow after work. With any luck, I will attempt to start it tomorrow after I swap it out.

Pulled the front wheels to bring home to fill. Unthreaded a third of the wheel studs. Was it common to have flat washer and lock washer on each?

I did find a few brackets underneath when I jacked up the rear to rotate the wheels. I'll post those from my phone.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

Don't mess around with old diesel, drain the tank and fill with new fuel.

Yes it's normal for these to have flat nuts, flat washers and lock washers on the wheels.

 

[CCox]

I was able to get it running this afternoon. The previous owner and I had a good visit and he was happy to hear it go. I explained that he had not run it in two years but that his son-in-law had started it every few months. I drove it around his pasture and parked it in preparation of driving it home this weekend. I am anxious to get started on the fluids and other shake down items. May move it Sunday when traffic is light.

Thanks again for all who weighed in with advice and suggestions. Glad to have a group of resourceful folks here.