B8200 classic

[katansam]

Hello, Im new to diesel, new to tractors, new to this forum so go easy on me . I just spent way too much money...errr...picked up a B8200 HST D with a BF350 loader, and a woods BH750 hoe. Im thinking ok...Ill just change the fluids and get it ready for winter and now I think I need more help. I ordered the owners manual and should be here soon so that's a start. I picked up the hydrolic filter, and oil filter and plan on figuring out what to do with them. Well, this was more of an intro than question...but im sure plenty will come. attached some pics

 

[jnschnit]

You can look here to see if they have your manuals for free download -

Index of Kubotabooks/

 

[Dave_eng]

There is a fine screen hydraulic filter that most new owners overlook.

This poor schematic shows where this filter goes.

The two seals are special O rings #04811-10400 for almost $6 each.. Use genuine parts here not generic O rings from China.

The yellow circle shows a common area for a suction leak meaning air is sucked into the hydraulic pump yielding poor performance and expensive pump damage. #3 is a short piece of rubber hose.

Dave

 

[Nicksacco]

Hi Katansam-
Everyone was a newbee.
Tractors are full of surprises and contain many technologies from hydraulics to engines, to tires and so on.
This is a friendly forum and there is a lot of good experience here.
Goodluck with your purchase!
What are your plans for this beast?

 

[katansam]

Hi Katansam-
Everyone was a newbee.
Tractors are full of surprises and contain many technologies from hydraulics to engines, to tires and so on.
This is a friendly forum and there is a lot of good experience here.
Goodluck with your purchase!
What are your plans for this beast?

Plans are to keep my small acreage yard from encroaching on me as I get a bit older. I used to do this all by hand including wind downed trees cut, spit and moved from the back half of property to the firepit, remove some decent sized rocks that ive been mowing around for 20 years, move loam and mulch into place. My property is very rocky here in NE and difficult to access with my truck. I have a realatively small driveway I plan on trying to plow also. I hear the bucket is not a lot of fun for this, but its only 125 feet x ~30ft...so Ill give it a shot

 

[ve9aa]

Great lookin' rig.

Welcome to the madness ;-)

 

[katansam]

You can look here to see if they have your manuals for free download -

Index of Kubotabooks/

This has been great so far

 

[D2Cat]

The screen filter Dave pointed out in post #3 can often times be cleaned, making sure the fine screen has no debris or holes.

 

[katansam]

The screen filter Dave pointed out in post #3 can often times be cleaned, making sure the fine screen has no debris or holes.

Got it...thanks. I just did the engine oil...easy enough...now Im reading up on the Hydrolic change out. Bought the filter but looks like this takes ~19qts...so will need to get more oil first. and its a little intimidating. There are so many similar parts on this. The manual shows the drain in the rear, near the PTO. Is this correct?...I cant find many videos specific to this model but feel free to share if you know of any....Thanks again!

 

[D2Cat]

Since you don't know anything about the machine as far as condition, I'd suggest since you changed the engine oil, check the antifreeze, fuel and get it running. After it's running you can change the Hyd oil and filters. Also give you more time to get familiarized with the tractor.

This way if for any reason it's a dud, you're not out the hyd cost.

 

[Russell King]

There are a couple of tips for changing the hydraulic fluid:
Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and find a large plastic pan in the masonry section used to mix mortar in. Also pick up 2 or 3 five gallon buckets and lids (pour spout type lid if available).

There will be several different drain plugs on the transmission along with some bolt heads that shouldn’t be messed with so be sure which are which. I painted the drain plugs on mine so it is harder to mess that up while changing the fluid. The drain plugs will have a sealing washer under the head but doubt you can see it. I ordered replacement sealing washers for the drain plugs since I had no idea how many times they were already used. Sometimes they are copper and sometimes they are rubber (Dowty washer).
Buy new washers before you start your change.

When you start draining the fluid put the large pan down and put a five gallon bucket or two inside the pan under the drain plugs and make sure you can move the buckets around and swap places or under two plugs. You will fill up both buckets to drain the transmission (not completely using two if the 19 quarts is correct). The pan will catch any sloshing or spills.

 

[Nicksacco]

Great points from Russel and D2Cat!

I'd like to suggest if you want to, to send us some pics of the engine and whatever.
We might spot something as a question or suggestion.

I am in process of restoring an L35 so I feel your pain!

Don't trust old hydraulic hoses and never run your hands on them if they show signs of leakage while engine is running. The oil inside can easily be injected into your hand - as you know its under a lot of pressure. It's a pain to replace oil and then have a hose blow!

 

[katansam]

Great points from Russel and D2Cat!

I'd like to suggest if you want to, to send us some pics of the engine and whatever.
We might spot something as a question or suggestion.

I am in process of restoring an L35 so I feel your pain!

Don't trust old hydraulic hoses and never run your hands on them if they show signs of leakage while engine is running. The oil inside can easily be injected into your hand - as you know its under a lot of pressure. It's a pain to replace oil and then have a hose blow!

Here are some pics of the top side. It still seems pretty dry where I really see no leaks at all...yet. It appears to me that either someone did some mechanical restoration in the last 10yrs or so based on the cleanliness of a 30plus yo motor or it was just stored indoors, There are some newer replacement bolts on the frame as well telling me this has probably been apart, Not really a bad thing. The under carrige has the same "clean" appearance where most of the paint (baked or pwder coat???) appears intact. Let me know what you can see

 

[katansam]

Since you don't know anything about the machine as far as condition, I'd suggest since you changed the engine oil, check the antifreeze, fuel and get it running. After it's running you can change the Hyd oil and filters. Also give you more time to get familiarized with the tractor.

This way if for any reason it's a dud, you're not out the hyd cost.

Changed the oil and filter yesterday...pretty nasty, black, sludge in the filter. I am going to descale/flush the radiator tomorrow although i have put about 8 hours on it and it lost 0 coolant but will clean it anyway. I think you are right, small steps to get used to the machine. Otherwise its overwhelming. The hydrolic fluid has maintained level and appears very clean

 

[D2Cat]

Nice looking tractor. Sure has not be setting outside by the sea!!

 

[Russell King]

I think you are missing a lynchpin on the upper connector in the second picture. And the tabs look bent but that may be the picture. Be aware that the backhoe is capable of damaging the tractor so don’t overwork it.

 

[Donystoy]

I think you are missing a lynchpin on the upper connector in the second picture. And the tabs look bent but that may be the picture. Be aware that the backhoe is capable of damaging the tractor so don’t overwork it.

I am surprised that the BH is not attached using a proper subframe as recommended by Kubota. On my B7200 I installed a Woods BH650 originally without a subframe. I soon demolished the upper link attachment bracket. One day the tractor stalled and I found that the small bolts that attach the rear housing to the rear of the engine had snapped causing the whole tractor to bend in the middle. I tried to open the hood but the rear of the fuel filler hole was under the edge of the cap.
That winter I built a proper subframe which has worked well for me.

 

[katansam]

I am surprised that the BH is not attached using a proper subframe as recommended by Kubota. On my B7200 I installed a Woods BH650 originally without a subframe. I soon demolished the upper link attachment bracket. One day the tractor stalled and I found that the small bolts that attach the rear housing to the rear of the engine had snapped causing the whole tractor to bend in the middle. I tried to open the hood but the rear of the fuel filler hole was under the edge of the cap.
That winter I built a proper subframe which has worked well for me.

I followed a thread on here and agree. There is a "Heavy duty" replacement for this top pin which is not installed here for a 3pt install without a subframe. I wish there was (or I can find) a subframe for it. Building one as you mentioned is probably beyond my experience. I will lay off the BH for now and it will be an expensive counterweight till i figure this out

 

[katansam]

I think you are missing a lynchpin on the upper connector in the second picture. And the tabs look bent but that may be the picture. Be aware that the backhoe is capable of damaging the tractor so don’t overwork it.

I did look into the "pin" that is missing. the funny thing is that the pin that is in there is sheered...and more like a cotter pin size as opposed to a hefty lynch pin. I am going to knock it out and get a better idea..Thanks for the input

 

[Nicksacco]

Nice pics and even nicer looking machine!
Glad to hear the hydr fluid was clean.
A couple of thoughts come to mind...

You might want to run it for awhile once you're satisfied all is ok, then change the oil again.
If you want to be fussy and you've room to remove the oil pan, you can manually clean out the stuff that never comes out!

Remember to use antifreeze made for tractors when you get to that point.
Hoses should be checked and replaced and all the wiring inspected for damage from critters.
There are threads on here about products to repel critters too.

Get a nice grease gun. I have the Ryobi electric, but I like to use a handgun first to "feel" the zerk fittings and ensure they are taking grease.

I also favor plastic zerk caps for added protection. Zerks are easy to replace if you find a clogged one.
If you find pins that won't take grease, that's another discussion. Best to find that out before you go into service with the machine. Also look for worn and loose pins/bushings in the bucket, hoe and such.

Lubricate all the mechanical joints you can find as well with oil/grease. I find that it helped me get very familiar with the machine digging around it with lubricants.

You might consider Fluidfilm or other to help stave off rust and corrosion. Others will likely offer their experiences and products.

Get a battery maintainer too. Millions out there to choose from. I have used the Battery Tender with good results. I also use the Harborfreight version with my motorcycles.

Check the front axle for oil. It will use regular 80-90 weight oil. You may want to drain it and refill just to be sure it is filled properly. If there's lots of wear, the old oil will look like there's glitter in it! Once you refill, you may find that seals leak and that again is another story.

This forum also recently had some discussion on diesel additives you might find interesting. Winter is coming and diesel can gel and it can also get bacteria in it.

Air filter should be checked for cleanliness and for any critters' nest residuals.

'hope this helps...