B7800 with 600 hours over heating.

[MAXA]

This seems to be a common issue with this tractor, guy has cleaned the radiator and screen, radiator is full, radiator fan is going, fan belt looks very warn, new air filter still over heats.

It even over heats if you are just moving it around the yard carrying light items takes about 45min in 80F

I have read to use a Infrared Thermometer on the engine to see what the temps are but i don't know what location on the engine to check? and what the temps should be. He said when he changed the air filter there was a nest in there is it possible for something to build a nest past the air filter blocking air.

It is my elder friends tractor.

 

[InTheWoods]

With the engine stopped, grab the fan and see how easily it slips - the belt may be too loose.

You say he cleaned the rad and screen. I'd double check that very carefully, to be sure there's no dust/dirt deeply embedded in the fins.

 

[TheOldHokie]

This seems to be a common issue with this tractor, guy has cleaned the radiator and screen, radiator is full, radiator fan is going, fan belt looks very warn, new air filter still over heats.

It even over heats if you are just moving it around the yard carrying light items takes about 45min in 80F

I have read to use a Infrared Thermometer on the engine to see what the temps are but i don't know what location on the engine to check? and what the temps should be. He said when he changed the air filter there was a nest in there is it possible for something to build a nest past the air filter blocking air.

It is my elder friends tractor.

Thermostat.

Dan

 

[MAXA]

Thermostat.

Dan

Could it be that simple? What coolant do you guys use just 50/50?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Could it be that simple? What coolant do you guys use just 50/50?

Yes, its that simple and I would also say its almost certain. Long life antifreeze (ELC) mixed 50/50. And before you ask pick your favorite color.

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

Remove the radiator cap…. and make certain the coolant is actually circulating.

A stuck thermostat ….or a water-pump impeller loose on the shaft…. cannot circulate coolant.

 

[MAXA]

He's going to the dealer today and buy a Thermostat and pick up some new Zerex G05.

He doesn't think the coolant has ever been changed.

Can the water-pump be checked by just seeing if the pump spins freely?

 

[TheOldHokie]

He's going to the dealer today and buy a Thermostat and pick up some new Zerex G05.

He doesn't think the coolant has ever been changed.

Can the water-pump be checked by just seeing if the pump spins freely?

No but the old thermostat can be checked by placing it in a pan of water and heating it on a stovetop.

Dan

 

[MAXA]

New Thermostat and Zerex G05 1.2 gallons and it still over heats.

To recap,
New Thermostat and coolant.
New air filter,
Radiator blown out by compressed air and a leaf blower on both sides.
Screen in front of the radiator is clean,
Screen in front of the battery is clean.

What's next the water pump?

 

[TheOldHokie]

New Thermostat and Zerex G05 1.2 gallons and it still over heats.

To recap,
New Thermostat and coolant.
New air filter,
Radiator blown out by compressed air and a leaf blower on both sides.
Screen in front of the radiator is clean,
Screen in front of the battery is clean.

What's next the water pump?

Is it circulatung coolant?

Dan

 

[chim]

My radiator, oil cooler and A/C coils had been blown a few times but look what a more thorough cleaning removed:

My, What dirty fins you have

The goal today was to clean the radiator and condenser fins. Funny how tasks have a way of increasing in scope. It was a successful day though. What really surprised me was just how dirty the fins were. I do use compressed air and the two tools shown in the first/second photos and felt my...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[DaveFromMi]

Could be a bad water pump or lots of scale built up in the radiator. Someone may be using tap water for the coolant mix.

 

[MAXA]

Remove the radiator cap…. and make certain the coolant is actually circulating.

A stuck thermostat ….or a water-pump impeller loose on the shaft…. cannot circulate coolant.

So just run it with the radiator cap off and see if the coolant is moving? Sounds easy but i bet it's hard to tell if it's moving.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So just run it with the radiator cap off and see if the coolant is moving? Sounds easy but i bet it's hard to tell if it's moving.

It is not hsrd. You csn also measure temperature of top snd bottim hoses to see what temperature drop you are getting.

Dan

 

[MAXA]

It is not hsrd. You csn also measure temperature of top snd bottim hoses to see what temperature drop you are getting.

Dan

Ok should this be done when it's getting close to the red (overheating) line or just warmed up?

I do have a infrared thermometer. Any idea on what the temps should be around?

Thanks for your help!

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Automotive thermostats start to open around 205°F and are fully open around 220°F (it depends, but close enough). I'd guess tractor cooling systems are about the same, and by mid-range on the thermometer the thermostat should be open. In theory the thermometer could also be bad and the thermostat fine, more experienced members than I might give solid information on those thoughts.

 

[Grandad4]

Radiator blown out by compressed air and a leaf blower on both sides.

As two other posts have noted, cleaning the rad fins with compressed air doesn't always get the job done. Dust can harden up on the fins and must be washed off. If the coolant was neglected there is a good chance nobody ever washed the radiator either. Easy and worthwhile maintenance item.

 

[Russell King]

There will be no flow when you first start the tractor. Then the thermostat will open and there will be flow but not for long. The thermostat will close when the cool water hits it. Then the thermostat will open again and flow will start again.

I state that just so you know that there isn’t always a continuous flow through the radiator and assume that if there isn’t flow when you first start it there is NO flow.

 

[MAXA]

As two other posts have noted, cleaning the rad fins with compressed air doesn't always get the job done. Dust can harden up on the fins and must be washed off. If the coolant was neglected there is a good chance nobody ever washed the radiator either. Easy and worthwhile maintenance item.

It has been power washed with simple green.

 

[Jim L.]

Rephrasing what other members have said.

Measure the top and bottom radiator hoses temperatures using the infrared thermometer. If the temperatures are closer together, then heat is not being dumped and thus the overheating.

Coolant has to be flowing for good cooling. If the inner cores are blocked with scale, not enough coolant will flow thru the system. The field test is to flow a set amount of water from the radiator top, catch in a container at the bottom hose, and time the flow.

Air has to be flowing for good cooling. Clogged external fins, fan out of normal. Fins examined with good light and white paper behind from where looking to see any junk between the fins.

Fins need to be clean, even shiny, for heat transfer from the metal to air. Simple green may be leaving a film. Power washer may be bending the fins and cutting off air flow.

Yet more to consider. If the machine has been running hot for a while, it is just as bad as going in the red zone. Heat causes movement with the engine block, gasket, and cylinder head. A cracked cylinder head may allow rapid temperature rise.

Never changing the coolant is worrisome. It's the additives that wear out which fight scale, rust, and gunk buildup.

If the coolant has never been changed, then neither have the radiator hoses. Old hoses will sometimes collapse inside, restricting coolant flow.

Good luck while troubleshooting.