B7510 Not Starting

jobeldobel

New member
Oct 27, 2019
4
0
0
Aliquippa, PA, United States
I am having an issues with my B7510 not starting. Any help would be appreciated.

When I turn the key to the on position the engine oil pressure light and battery light should come on - but the battery light does not come on.

When I turn the key to the start position my glow plug indicator light and engine oil pressure light are on but nothing happens.


I have checked all of the fuses and they are all fine. I have also checked the battery and it is charged.
 

MadMax31

Member

Equipment
BX23S, 60" MMM
Nov 5, 2014
766
8
18
New York
Make sure all the safeties are good. My B7610 gave me a fit one day and it was my PTO lever being ever so slightly engaged...
 

olekid

Member

Equipment
B7510,loader, Curtis heated cab, loaded tires snowblower,grader blade,snow plow
Apr 9, 2013
92
8
8
Mount Uniacke, Nova Scotia
Greetings, my B7510 started the same thing, now and then turn the key and nothing happened. It was the hydro static peddle not returning to set position, just moved the peddle a little one way or the other and it started.
 

jobeldobel

New member
Oct 27, 2019
4
0
0
Aliquippa, PA, United States
Thanks for the input. I have tried moving the Hydro Static pedal and still get nothing.

I have jumped the three safety switches (two in the seat and one on the PTO clutch pedal) and I still have nothing.

I also checked and I have power to the starter solenoid.
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,239
1,022
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Here is some info from the shop manual (WSM)

Check and see if the starter relay on the back of the dash is being triggered when the key is turned to start.

A bit of history on the arrival of this problem might help.

Dave
 

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jobeldobel

New member
Oct 27, 2019
4
0
0
Aliquippa, PA, United States
Thanks Dave, I did not realize there were so many safety switches. I have by passed all of them except for the Mid PTO and the one on the front of the clutch pedal. I did check the starter relay. It clicks when I turn the key to the on position but does nothing when I turn it to the start position. I am not sure if it should click a second time when I go to the start position or not. Is there a way to test it if I pull it out? There are four terminals on the relay.

I am going to take my battery and get it tested to see if it has a bad cell. It does show 12 volt on a meter though.


The history is, I had the tractor running while I was disconnecting my finish cut mower. My son connected a wire to a bolt in the back of the tractor while the tractor was still running and I smelled a hint of burning plastic so I shut the machine down and disconnected the wire he had grounded. He said he thought it was a ground wire that had come loose. The tractor would not start after I had shut it down so I took the console apart looking for an issues only to find a mouse nest on the gas tank behind the console. I removed the nest and inspected wires but did not see anything out of the ordinary. I have never had any problems with the machine prior to this.
 

ahenthus

New member

Equipment
B7610 ROPS, B2650 Cab
Mar 24, 2012
8
0
1
Upstate SC
I am going to take my battery and get it tested to see if it has a bad cell. It does show 12 volt on a meter though.
Have you checked the ground from the starter to the frame? Undo it and wire brush the contact areas. It can't hurt. A healthy battery should have at least 12.7 volts.
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,239
1,022
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
I have attached the B7510 wiring diagram.

What is puzzling me and I do not have time to study now it is that the B7410 shows a starter relay but the 7510 does not.

Perhaps the relay that is clicking in the key On position has nothing to do with the starter.

Dave
 

Attachments

curlesw

New member

Equipment
B7800
May 17, 2010
19
0
0
Purcellville, VA
Hi Dave, I am having the SAME issue only with y B7800. Mine was caused by me reserving the jumper cables. In looking at your schematic the B7800 is pretty much the same except I have two diodes that are integrated in the mid/rear PTO circuit.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43652

I'll be watching your progress and will let you know if I'm available to solve my issue.

Good luck!

v/r
Wayne C.
 

jobeldobel

New member
Oct 27, 2019
4
0
0
Aliquippa, PA, United States
Well, I didn't have time to look at much today, you know my real job gets in the way. I did however take my battery to an auto parts store to get it checked. So just to update everyone that has been helping.

The Battery was 12.85 volts and the cold cranking amps on the battery were listed on the battery at 450 but registered on their machine at 512.

So I can cross that off.

I also did as someone suggested. I removed the negative ground from the tractor, sanded the metal, the bolt and the washer on the cable. I coated everything with anti-corrosion grease and put it all back together. It didn't help, but I can cross that off too.

Thanks for all the suggestion. I will follow-up with any new findings.
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,239
1,022
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Hi Dave, I am having the SAME issue only with y B7800. Mine was caused by me reserving the jumper cables. In looking at your schematic the B7800 is pretty much the same except I have two diodes that are integrated in the mid/rear PTO circuit.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43652

I'll be watching your progress and will let you know if I'm available to solve my issue.

Good luck!

v/r
Wayne C.
Wayne
If you have it post the wiring diagram for your tractor...........

Dave
 

200mph

Well-known member

Equipment
L4740-3 Cab, FEL, Fnt Snow Blower L2185, LP Finish Mower, LP Rotary Mower
Mar 3, 2017
1,228
61
48
PA
I also did as someone suggested. I removed the negative ground from the tractor, sanded the metal, the bolt and the washer on the cable. I coated everything with anti-corrosion grease and put it all back together. It didn't help, but I can cross that off too.
While that is good practice, it is not enough. It's possible corrosion (poor continuity) is between the wire and terminal itself limiting electrical flow.

A "voltage drop" test will verify if the starting circuit is OK.

Best of luck!