B7500 with a B2781A snowblower attachment

Wally

New member

Equipment
B7500 4WD HST w/ Curtis Ca; LA 302 Loader; Woods 6500 Backhoe; B2781A Snowblower
Mar 23, 2011
11
0
1
MA
Every winter, I drop the bucket on my B7500 and attach the front mounted B2781A snowblower. The snowblower works extremely well except when the snow is heavy and wet and then the snow just pushes forward and does not feed into the blower or the snow clogs the snowblower very quickly. Does anyone have any suggestion or know of any attachments that i could place over the snowblower to use the snowblower attachment as a makeshift plow?
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Wally
 

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,237
4,816
113
North East CT
Do you keep your tractor with the snowblower in a heated environment? I have found that my snowblower works best when the metal is cold. I have removed the guard in front of the chute to slow down the clogging factor, and I also sprayed the chute, second-stage impeller, and rear housing where the impeller is located with vegetable oil. Sometimes wet heavy snow just can't be blown away, and a plow is the only way to move it.
If you are looking for a suggestion for a front-mounted plow to put in front of the snowblower, consider fashioning some type of V plow and a way to attach it to the snowblower.
 

Rusty46

Member

Equipment
B7500 HSD-R, LA 302, RCK60-24B, Woods RB-72, Millcreek 25, Harrow, Payne PF800,
Does anyone have any suggestion or know of any attachments that i could place over the snowblower to use the snowblower attachment as a makeshift plow?
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Wally
Wally - I have a B7500HSD-R with a B2781B snowblower on the front and a 6' wide rear blade on the back. The rear blade is slower to use, but takes care of the wet, heavy snow. You also need more places to pull/push the snow.

IIRC, there may be a Kubota front blade (plow) that would match up to your existing front hitch.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,421
4,908
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
never met a snowblower that would deal with wet/heavy snow....

a sheet of 3/4" plywood makes for an easy 'wet snow pusher' option.
add 2by4 on the sides, use 'bolts' to secure through the 'snow cutter' holes ?

when you do push it, get it far,far away !!! if not, 'magically' overnight it'll freeze into a mountain ridge of immovable ice.....
 

Wally

New member

Equipment
B7500 4WD HST w/ Curtis Ca; LA 302 Loader; Woods 6500 Backhoe; B2781A Snowblower
Mar 23, 2011
11
0
1
MA
I keep in an unheated enclosure, and I've tried spraying it with a dry silicone spray that seems to work OK
 

Wally

New member

Equipment
B7500 4WD HST w/ Curtis Ca; LA 302 Loader; Woods 6500 Backhoe; B2781A Snowblower
Mar 23, 2011
11
0
1
MA
Wally - I have a B7500HSD-R with a B2781B snowblower on the front and a 6' wide rear blade on the back. The rear blade is slower to use, but takes care of the wet, heavy snow. You also need more places to pull/push the snow.

IIRC, there may be a Kubota front blade (plow) that would match up to your existing front hitch.
Rusty
Do you have any problems mounting the "quick hitch mount" that supports the snowblower to your tractor each year, I seem to have a difficult time mounting the bracket each fall. Do you have a method that makes it easier to connect the quick hitch mount to the tractor?
 

Wally

New member

Equipment
B7500 4WD HST w/ Curtis Ca; LA 302 Loader; Woods 6500 Backhoe; B2781A Snowblower
Mar 23, 2011
11
0
1
MA
never met a snowblower that would deal with wet/heavy snow....

a sheet of 3/4" plywood makes for an easy 'wet snow pusher' option.
add 2by4 on the sides, use 'bolts' to secure through the 'snow cutter' holes ?

when you do push it, get it far,far away !!! if not, 'magically' overnight it'll freeze into a mountain ridge of immovable ice.....
I thought of using plywood, but thought of using angle iron to attach it to the snowblower and using a steel scraper blade on the plywood
 

Rusty46

Member

Equipment
B7500 HSD-R, LA 302, RCK60-24B, Woods RB-72, Millcreek 25, Harrow, Payne PF800,
Rusty
Do you have any problems mounting the "quick hitch mount" that supports the snowblower to your tractor each year, I seem to have a difficult time mounting the bracket each fall. Do you have a method that makes it easier to connect the quick hitch mount to the tractor?
Wally, yes I have serious problems mounting the quick hitch. It is awkward to align & lift without help. A couple of strong grandsons is the best method that I have found. Watch your fingers and toes! Perhaps someone else on the forum can give both of us a tip.
 

BAP

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Dec 31, 2012
2,756
871
113
New Hampshire
Wally, yes I have serious problems mounting the quick hitch. It is awkward to align & lift without help. A couple of strong grandsons is the best method that I have found. Watch your fingers and toes! Perhaps someone else on the forum can give both of us a tip.
Do you leave your quick hitch attached to your blower or separate? Leave the hitch attached to the blower and use the hydraulics to put it on and off.
 

Rusty46

Member

Equipment
B7500 HSD-R, LA 302, RCK60-24B, Woods RB-72, Millcreek 25, Harrow, Payne PF800,
Do you leave your quick hitch attached to your blower or separate? Leave the hitch attached to the blower and use the hydraulics to put it on and off.
I take the blower off the quick hitch, and then take the quick hitch off the tractor, as per the operator manual.

I don't think my hydraulics are precise enough to be safely positioning the quick hitch under the tractor without damaging one or the other, or both.

Can you run me thru the steps to take both off together.
 

Wally

New member

Equipment
B7500 4WD HST w/ Curtis Ca; LA 302 Loader; Woods 6500 Backhoe; B2781A Snowblower
Mar 23, 2011
11
0
1
MA
Rusty & BAP:

Thanks for your responses, I have one more question on the snowblower, I have the hydraulic chute rotator. The mid PTO and snowblower were installed by a Kubota dealer. The hydraulic operation of the snowblower is the opposite of when I operate by bucket. The snowblower raises up/down with the left/right movement of the joystick and the chute rotates with the up/down movement of the joystick, in this manner I can't put the snowblower in the free float position. I tried switching the hoses and the snowblower would raise up and down with the up/down movement of the joystick, but when I pushed the joystick to the left the chute would not swing right to left(counter clockwise), but when I pushed the joystick to the right it would swing left to right(clockwise). Any ideas, I'll speak to my dealer, but was hoping someone could explain this weird function.
 

Rusty46

Member

Equipment
B7500 HSD-R, LA 302, RCK60-24B, Woods RB-72, Millcreek 25, Harrow, Payne PF800,
Rusty & BAP:

Any ideas, I'll speak to my dealer, but was hoping someone could explain this weird function.
Wally, sounds like your dealer needs to sort this for you. I have a manual chute, so mine is simpler, but IRRC my bucket and snowblower both go up/down the same way. I do know that the color coding for the bucket & the snowblower hydraulic hose connections are different. My bucket (actually the FEL) has color coded caps & plugs to match. My dealer added color coded electrical wire spirals to match the hydraulic male & female connectors.
 

NoJacketRequired

Active member

Equipment
B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
May 25, 2016
432
68
28
Ottawa, Ontario
Every winter, I drop the bucket on my B7500 and attach the front mounted B2781A snowblower. The snowblower works extremely well except when the snow is heavy and wet and then the snow just pushes forward and does not feed into the blower or the snow clogs the snowblower very quickly. Does anyone have any suggestion or know of any attachments that i could place over the snowblower to use the snowblower attachment as a makeshift plow?
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Wally
I have similar equipment - two B7510's matched to a B2781A and B2782B, with a B2781 as a spare.

I suspect we have a lot of "regionality" tied to this particular question. Here in the Ottawa Valley we traditionally have had colder winters and blowing snow has never been a problem. Now, with climate change, our winters are getting warmer and the snow is getting wetter. The difficulties of blowing the snow are increasing.

Some of the advice given above is excellent advice and easy to follow. Ditching the metal rods that are designed to prevent us from putting our arms into the discharge chute is one of the best and easiest first steps. Those were installed to keep lawyers happy; lawyers must always have somebody else removing their snow because if they did it themselves they would quickly see what a bad idea these "guards" are.

I've found that I can blow extremely wet snow with all three of my blowers. One has to slow down quite a bit and take a narrower bite since the B7500/7510 only has 17HP at the PTO. Make sure to keep the RPM all the way up. Also, if possible, aim the discharge chute to the LEFT as the snow comes off the impeller at the right and it's easier for it to follow a more linear flow out the chute to the left - with dry snow you'll notice the machine will blow several feet further to the left than the right.

If you are pushing the snow with the blower then it's time to take a good look at your skid shoes and their adjustment. Install the newer shoes found on the B2782B as they are quite a bit bigger than the original ones on the 2781 and 2781A - they're not hugely expensive. Also, take a hard look at your cutting edge. The cutting edge is replaceable and I would suggest you consider replacing it if it shows signs of becoming rounded off. It has to have a square edge in order to actually cut the snow. The interaction between skid shoe height and cutting edge quality makes quite a difference in the ability to blow vs push snow.

Another massive determinant in snowblower performance is clearance between impeller fan blades and the impeller housing. The tips of the blades do wear over time and when they do, blower performance suffers. A search on this site will find old threads where folks have added heavy rubber to the tips of the impeller blades to achieve a better seal against the impeller housing - some operators who have done this report very significant gains in performance.

Lastly, if your machine has rust pitting on the impeller blades, impeller housing or discharge chute, sand it off and make these parts smooth. I tend to put the blowers away in the spring with a coat of Krown rust proofing on them so they don't rust. A $10 can is enough to do all three blowers and have a bunch left over.

For those who are using the older-style "bolt on" quick hitch, yup they are a pain. The newer style quick hitch that pins on is a one person 10 minute job to install. They are worth the money if you can find one for sale.

Wishing you happy snowblowing!

PS: my avatar shows my former B2410 and B2550C blower - that combination would blow water even though the B2550C only has a 3-blade impeller.
 
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Wally

New member

Equipment
B7500 4WD HST w/ Curtis Ca; LA 302 Loader; Woods 6500 Backhoe; B2781A Snowblower
Mar 23, 2011
11
0
1
MA
I have similar equipment - two B7510's matched to a B2781A and B2782B, with a B2781 as a spare.

I suspect we have a lot of "regionality" tied to this particular question. Here in the Ottawa Valley we traditionally have had colder winters and blowing snow has never been a problem. Now, with climate change, our winters are getting warmer and the snow is getting wetter. The difficulties of blowing the snow are increasing.

Some of the advice given above is excellent advice and easy to follow. Ditching the metal rods that are designed to prevent us from putting our arms into the discharge chute is one of the best and easiest first steps. Those were installed to keep lawyers happy; lawyers must always have somebody else removing their snow because if they did it themselves they would quickly see what a bad idea these "guards" are.

I've found that I can blow extremely wet snow with all three of my blowers. One has to slow down quite a bit and take a narrower bite since the B7500/7510 only has 17HP at the PTO. Make sure to keep the RPM all the way up. Also, if possible, aim the discharge chute to the LEFT as the snow comes off the impeller at the right and it's easier for it to follow a more linear flow out the chute to the left - with dry snow you'll notice the machine will blow several feet further to the left than the right.

If you are pushing the snow with the blower then it's time to take a good look at your skid shoes and their adjustment. Install the newer shoes found on the B2782B as they are quite a bit bigger than the original ones on the 2781 and 2781A - they're not hugely expensive. Also, take a hard look at your cutting edge. The cutting edge is replaceable and I would suggest you consider replacing it if it shows signs of becoming rounded off. It has to have a square edge in order to actually cut the snow. The interaction between skid shoe height and cutting edge quality makes quite a difference in the ability to blow vs push snow.

Another massive determinant in snowblower performance is clearance between impeller fan blades and the impeller housing. The tips of the blades do wear over time and when they do, blower performance suffers. A search on this site will find old threads where folks have added heavy rubber to the tips of the impeller blades to achieve a better seal against the impeller housing - some operators who have done this report very significant gains in performance.

Lastly, if your machine has rust pitting on the impeller blades, impeller housing or discharge chute, sand it off and make these parts smooth. I tend to put the blowers away in the spring with a coat of Krown rust proofing on them so they don't rust. A $10 can is enough to do all three blowers and have a bunch left over.

For those who are using the older-style "bolt on" quick hitch, yup they are a pain. The newer style quick hitch that pins on is a one person 10 minute job to install. They are worth the money if you can find one for sale.

Wishing you happy snowblowing!

PS: my avatar shows my former B2410 and B2550C blower - that combination would blow water even though the B2550C only has a 3-blade impeller.
I appreciate all the responses, I installed new skids and a new cutting edge for this year. I've had my 7500 for several years it has a curtis cab with heater, with the LA302 loader and a woods 6500 backhoe. I'm pretty happy with the setup and don't want to invest in a new tractor at this point in my life. Thanks again
 

kubotasam

Well-known member

Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Apr 26, 2010
1,204
128
63
Alfred Maine
Rusty & BAP:

Thanks for your responses, I have one more question on the snowblower, I have the hydraulic chute rotator. The mid PTO and snowblower were installed by a Kubota dealer. The hydraulic operation of the snowblower is the opposite of when I operate by bucket. The snowblower raises up/down with the left/right movement of the joystick and the chute rotates with the up/down movement of the joystick, in this manner I can't put the snowblower in the free float position. I tried switching the hoses and the snowblower would raise up and down with the up/down movement of the joystick, but when I pushed the joystick to the left the chute would not swing right to left(counter clockwise), but when I pushed the joystick to the right it would swing left to right(clockwise). Any ideas, I'll speak to my dealer, but was hoping someone could explain this weird function.
Two loader control valves were available on the LA 302 loader. The less expensive one only had a regenerative dump circuit. The more expensive valve has both regenerative dump and standard flow dump. It has four positions on the side to side on the joystick. First step is to see if your valve has four positions when you move the joystick side to side. Push the joystick to the right like dumping the bucket. The more expensive valves have a detent going to the right and if you push past the detent into the forth position it is a standard flow and the rotation will work.
Unfortunately if your tractor is like mine it came equipped with the less expensive valve. The easiest cure is to replace the control valve with one that has a standard flow not a regenerative dump.
The reason that yours works when connected as the dealer did is the regenerative circuit will work on a hydraulic cylinder but not on a hydraulic motor.
I did come up with a work around on mine that is a little unconventional but makes the rotation functional.
Look at post #24 in this thread for an explanition of how I made mine work.Snow blower rotation
 
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