B7500HST, D1005 E engine, 2004 model, 585 hours, have had since new, always ran perfect summer or winter. I ran the tractor very low on fuel (but not out) helping to put out a neighborhood grass fire using the front bucket. Tractor was not used for about a week, got new fuel from a new service station. Tractor started as usual, drove the tractor about 400 feet into the field, engine started to run very rough and stopped running. I assumed I got bad fuel so I drained the tank, replaced the fuel, changed out fuel filter, replaced fuel hose from filter to fuel lift pump and from lift pump to injection pump, replaced engine air filter and for the first time bled the system. Tractor was difficult to start, eventually started, drove the 400 feet back to the yard, engine started to run very rough and stopped running. I have since changed out the plastic water separator/fuel filter assembly to a better system and the lift pump. Cranking almost starts the engine but not quite running. Lots of fuel flow from the tank thru the separator, filter and lift pump. Removing fuel tank cover while cranking doesn't make any difference. Am I terrible at bleeding the system or is there something else I have neglected to do?
B7500 start problem
- Thread starter LawEd
- Start date
Russell King
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Russell King
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You need to let the starter cool down!
Crank 30 seconds then wait 120 seconds. After a few cranks (5-8?) walk away and come back in 15 minutes or so. You can add a fan blowing on the starter to help keep it cool but you can still burn it out by using it to frequently in a row.
Crank 30 seconds then wait 120 seconds. After a few cranks (5-8?) walk away and come back in 15 minutes or so. You can add a fan blowing on the starter to help keep it cool but you can still burn it out by using it to frequently in a row.
BAP
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Make sure that the fuel shut off lever is pushing in all the way opening up the shut off on the pump all the way.
My B7500 has only failed to start once. There was a very small pinhole in the line between the fuel filter and lift pump which caused it to suck air. I found it because the was a small spot of fuel on the outside of that line.
I changed the fuel hose and hose clamps from the water separator to the injection pump as a maintenance item when I replaced the fuel filter assembly. Hose and connections are dry. Thank You.
I haven't been able to do more bleeding and longer as suggested since I posted on this forum. I will towards the end of the week and will post my results.
Update - Took apart all joints I added due to replacement of water separator and fuel filter assemblies and reassembled. I have bled the fuel lines to the point of no air bubbles. Engine has not started and is the same - just about but no start. Setting throttle lever from idle to full while cranking makes no difference except more black smoke coming out of exhaust at full throttle. Engine air filter on or off while cranking makes no difference.
I have no leaks, drips or seeping joints between the fuel tank and the injection pump. Just to be sure I was not introducing air into the system because of my new water separator and fuel filter assemblies, I used a smaller portable fuel tank connected by hose directly into the fuel lift pump intake. Tank is above the lift pump intake. Lifting tank above engine does not make any difference.
Any ideas and/or advise?
I have no leaks, drips or seeping joints between the fuel tank and the injection pump. Just to be sure I was not introducing air into the system because of my new water separator and fuel filter assemblies, I used a smaller portable fuel tank connected by hose directly into the fuel lift pump intake. Tank is above the lift pump intake. Lifting tank above engine does not make any difference.
Any ideas and/or advise?
North Idaho Wolfman
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If your getting black smoke on crank your over fueling the engine.
Have you looked at the air cleaner?
Have you looked at the air cleaner?
Russell King
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I replaced the air cleaner after the first time the engine stopped. Havig the air cleaner on or off while cranking seems to make no difference. Have to remove the filter while cranking to have access to bleed air at the injectors.
I checked the glow plugs previously (not lately). They were each at 1.0 resistance. I convinced myself it was a reasonable reading.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Just because you tested resistance doesn't mean they are working.
You need to make sure they are heating while cranking.
Are you 100% sure you are getting good cranking speed, it wouldn't be the first time a dead /weak battery stopped a tractor from starting and running properly.
Also are you 100% sure you only have good clean diesel in the system?
Thank you Wolfman. All very good points. i will change out the fuel as a precaution and concentrate on the glow plugs. I think the battery is good but will substitute a working battery. I do have to admit I never really paid close attention to cranking speed when the engine worked properly compared to now.