FIXED!
Ignition switch is extremely dirty but still works. A lot of resistance there and basically throughout the circuit. It's fine for low AMP work. I put a relay on it, triggered by the original GP wire that hooks onto the GP buss bar. Went from getting 9-10V at GP's to full battery volts. It fires up from stone cold with 10 seconds on the GP and with about 3 seconds crank time.
I will do the compression tests whenever I get the adaptor, but my problem is fixed. It starts up like it is supposed to now. I am really thankful for you guys helping me walk through it.
I attached pics of my fix, it's probably better to spend the time and money on a new ignition switch, but the whole circuit has a lot of resistance and really probably not very well designed. This works WAY BETTER. I would almost want to recommend this to anyone that has an old Kubota with this type of GP circuit.
Cost - Nothing. I had all the stuff lying around in my shop.
Ignition switch is extremely dirty but still works. A lot of resistance there and basically throughout the circuit. It's fine for low AMP work. I put a relay on it, triggered by the original GP wire that hooks onto the GP buss bar. Went from getting 9-10V at GP's to full battery volts. It fires up from stone cold with 10 seconds on the GP and with about 3 seconds crank time.
I will do the compression tests whenever I get the adaptor, but my problem is fixed. It starts up like it is supposed to now. I am really thankful for you guys helping me walk through it.
I attached pics of my fix, it's probably better to spend the time and money on a new ignition switch, but the whole circuit has a lot of resistance and really probably not very well designed. This works WAY BETTER. I would almost want to recommend this to anyone that has an old Kubota with this type of GP circuit.
Cost - Nothing. I had all the stuff lying around in my shop.
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