JRHill
Active member
Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
I'm getting ready to do some rewiring. Mostly everything electrical is out of service except for the Starting circuit. Just this last weekend I eliminated the bayonet connectors to/from the alternator/gen under the exhaust manifold. I was charging as recently as this spring but now not at all. S'OK as I can easily plug in an on board maintainer and that is good for several starts and runs. After eliminating the aged alternator bayonet connectors I still have no 12vdc output.
I finally found a reprint of the original owner and service manuals Hooray! The service manual wiring diagram shows the generator as having 3 leads: 2 go to the head lamp switch and the 3rd to the rectifier (field I am sure). But the alternator on mine has only two leads in the harness. Grrr. So one has to be field and the other battery...? I can figure that out. I have a new OEM start switch on the shelf and just ordered the OEM light switch which is superseded and the available replacement appears to have spade connections instead of solder. Another hurray. So for any of y'all who have stepped through this:
1) The light switch is simple on/off. But it has 5 connections?!? From the service manual, two of the three alternator leads go to the light switch 'S' and 'G' - hmm Another tap would seem to be 12vdc while running (alternator output) and goes to the Start switch 'OB'. Another goes to the Regulator, 'G2' and lastly, duh, one goes to the lights 'L2'. Of course there is nowhere that shows what happens on the light switch from Off to On with the various leads and connections. I can ohm out the replacement switch when it arrives but I am trying to figure out the 3 lead alternator diagram from the two leads I have on my rig. Any help would be appreciated.
2) My 'ol rig has the flasher option which I could care less about. Thinking of eliminating the clicker and just using it as a rear light (low watt LED).
3) For a bizzilion years the oil light does not come on from Off to On during a cold start but does if returned to run after a failed start (too short a preheat), ah, sometimes. Key switch or oil pressure sensor? I'd change out the oil pressure sensor in a heartbeat but is there any idea for a suitable substitute in terms of pipe thread and pressure detection?
I need to pull the battery and fuel tank and maybe their bases to do home made harnesses. I'd be glad to document and take pictures along the way. If anyone can give me any of their experiences, esp regarding the alternator/light switch, it would be appreciated.
I finally found a reprint of the original owner and service manuals Hooray! The service manual wiring diagram shows the generator as having 3 leads: 2 go to the head lamp switch and the 3rd to the rectifier (field I am sure). But the alternator on mine has only two leads in the harness. Grrr. So one has to be field and the other battery...? I can figure that out. I have a new OEM start switch on the shelf and just ordered the OEM light switch which is superseded and the available replacement appears to have spade connections instead of solder. Another hurray. So for any of y'all who have stepped through this:
1) The light switch is simple on/off. But it has 5 connections?!? From the service manual, two of the three alternator leads go to the light switch 'S' and 'G' - hmm Another tap would seem to be 12vdc while running (alternator output) and goes to the Start switch 'OB'. Another goes to the Regulator, 'G2' and lastly, duh, one goes to the lights 'L2'. Of course there is nowhere that shows what happens on the light switch from Off to On with the various leads and connections. I can ohm out the replacement switch when it arrives but I am trying to figure out the 3 lead alternator diagram from the two leads I have on my rig. Any help would be appreciated.
2) My 'ol rig has the flasher option which I could care less about. Thinking of eliminating the clicker and just using it as a rear light (low watt LED).
3) For a bizzilion years the oil light does not come on from Off to On during a cold start but does if returned to run after a failed start (too short a preheat), ah, sometimes. Key switch or oil pressure sensor? I'd change out the oil pressure sensor in a heartbeat but is there any idea for a suitable substitute in terms of pipe thread and pressure detection?
I need to pull the battery and fuel tank and maybe their bases to do home made harnesses. I'd be glad to document and take pictures along the way. If anyone can give me any of their experiences, esp regarding the alternator/light switch, it would be appreciated.
