B7100D hydraulics and adding a FEL

[TheOldHokie]

Hey guys, just wanted to give an update.
I've had the Westendorf TA55 frontloader on there for a while now with no problems! I've got ~25 hrs of heavy front loader work with no issues.

I ended up fabricating a pump shaft using the female spline of flange 66704-88530 to 3/4" keyway stock and a Lovejoy coupling for the engine-to-pump connection. Pump is a NorTrac CBS6-F6. 3SS.
I built pump mount in cad and had Send Cut Send cut the steel and welded it up in place.
Hydraulic tank is an old steel scuba tank that I modified using parts cut by Send Cut Send.

I have cad for the pump mount if anyone would like it. I attached some pics for reference.

Thanks again for all the help.

How much did you pay for that 66704-88530 flange?

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

How many GPM do you figure you are getting out of it at operating RPM?

Pump is 3 GPM @ 1800 RPM = 4.7 GPM @ 2800 RPM

Dan

 

[PKele]

How many GPM do you figure you are getting out of it at operating RPM?

I figure between 3.5-5GPM durring normal operation. It's not very useful at idle. Peak flow of 6GPM doesn't happen until 3600RPM.

 

[PKele]

How much did you pay for that 66704-88530 flange?

Dan

I think I paid around $100 for the flange. I hated to machine it down but it got the job done.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think I paid around $100 for the flange. I hated to machine it down but it got the job done.

Thats about 1/3 the price at Colemans...

 

[torch]

I figure between 3.5-5GPM durring normal operation. It's not very useful at idle. Peak flow of 6GPM doesn't happen until 3600RPM.

The stock pump is 3usgpm at full working RPM, so you are way ahead of the curve.

Mind you, at idle the pressure can stall the engine before the relief valve opens.

 

[Russell King]

I think I paid around $100 for the flange. I hated to machine it down but it got the job done.

What had to be machined to get it working?

I think it would be safer if the external splines were removed or covered with a cylinder but that is probably not necessary due to its location.

Will you be able to slide it forward to replace the fan belt or will you have to basically remove it?

That is a clever solution though. Where did you hear about that part being in existence?

 

[TheOldHokie]

What had to be machined to get it working?

I think it would be safer if the external splines were removed or covered with a cylinder but that is probably not necessary due to its location.

Will you be able to slide it forward to replace the fan belt or will you have to basically remove it?

That is a clever solution though. Where did you hear about that part being in existence?

I recently discussed this with another member. My suggestion was to make a custom plain bore flange with a slightly longer nose that slips over the spline on the crankshaft. Broach the end for the keyed 3/4" shaft and secure the shaft in the flange with a set screw.

Dan

 

[PKele]

What had to be machined to get it working?

I think it would be safer if the external splines were removed or covered with a cylinder but that is probably not necessary due to its location.

Will you be able to slide it forward to replace the fan belt or will you have to basically remove it?

That is a clever solution though. Where did you hear about that part being in existence?

Well, long story long...
My year B7100 does not have the bolted flange on the crank pully, only about a 1/2" spline stub sticking out the center. Kubota made an adapter for this stub to size up to the magnetic clutch pully/shaft for the PTO for the belly mower that was an option my year.
The pump I purchased had a 1/2" keyway shaft and you can buy Lovejoy couplings in any size combo seems like. I found one that went from 1/2" on the pump end to 3/4" keyway on the drive end, the reason being, 3/4" gave me material to turn down a shoulder on the shaft, and turn a pocket inside the end of the spline adapter. I was able to achieve a concentric press fit between the modified spline hub and the shaft and mate them fairly precisely, finally welding them.
I realized I had to turn off the bolted flange on the back end because of clearance issues. I wanted to be able to remove the shaft for belt changes without removing the radiator every time. I do have to remove the pump but that's only 4 bolts. I'll take a picture the next time I'm able.

Regarding the Kubota spline hub existence? LOTS of digging through forums, Kubota parts diagrams, and looking at old auctions for the belly mower PTO attachment. I had the spline on the crank hub, so I figured there was something out there.

Thanks for the compliment! I was worried that I had screwed myself when I realized that there was no OTS part even close...

Regarding safety, the shaft is buried between the radiator and the frame rail, though I do need to fab a cover for the shaft and the pump. That or at least get one of these terrifying stickers...

 

[PKele]

I recently discussed this with another member. My suggestion was to make a custom plain bore flange with a slightly longer nose that slips over the spline on the crankshaft. Broach the end for the keyed 3/4" shaft and secure the shaft in the flange with a set screw.

Dan

I gave serious consideration to broaching the spline on a piece of McMaster keyway shaft. Thankfully I found the hub.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I gave serious consideration to broaching the spline on a piece of McMaster keyway shaft. Thankfully I found the hub.

I think this is cheaper and easier.

Dan

 

[PKele]

I think this is cheaper and easier.

Dan

View attachment 136970

Agreed. It absolutely would be cheaper, and I probably would have done something like this if I had the bolt holes on my crank pully, but I don't. Mine looks like this:

I think the later d750 engines, the d850's and d950s all had that bolt flange. Mine is an 1981, born too soon I guess.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Agreed. It absolutely would be cheaper, and I probably would have done something like this if I had the bolt holes on my crank pully, but I don't. Mine looks like this:
View attachment 136972

I think the later d750 engines, the d850's and d950s all had that bolt flange. Mine is an 1981, born too soon I guess.

I guess I am missing something.

You used the OEM hub but it is not bolted to the pulley? In that case:

Dan