B7100D clutch replacement

[chknscratch]

I have finally got my tractor apart in the last week and have removed almost everything for the clutch replacement. I have taken a lot of decent pictures, but haven't decided the best way to publish and share them. I will update with pics soon, regardless.

I almost started to make a video of removing the zerk fitting in the throw out bearing, but I have found I either have a pressed in zerk or a stripped one, unfortunately I am afraid the latter. I think it was 1/4 inch or even 7/32, but I cannot catch or see any good sides, I have a very reasonable view on it, so that isn't my problem. I have tried every pair of pliers to no avail. Should I just aim to snap most of it off, remove the throw out bearing and tap out the broken zerk? I have mid sized hands that have a reasonable amount of reach and space in the tractor through the opening in the bottom. I hate to ask what seems like a very common question, but how does one remove a stripped or pressed in?

 

[Daren Todd]

I usually end up going after it with a pair of pliers. Pull out on it as you turn it. Most of the time i can get enough pressure to catch a thread and get them to back out that way

 

[Daren Todd]

Here's an after thought if your already in there replacing the clutch, it wouldn't hurt to replace the through out bearing and rear main seal. It's usually my luck if i don't replace those things when i'm in there i would end up having one or the other go out on me in a week or so

 

[MMudd]

try to avoid snapping it off, that wouldmake getting the TO bearing sleeve difficult to get out. Try a small vice grip and pull down as you turn

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks guys, for the feedback. You were both right. A firm grip and pull down and twist. I just got it out with my largest pair of vice grips. It slipped out of vice grips probably 60-80 times before it finally grabbed it and started unscrewing. None of my smaller pairs seemed to get enough "bite" into it.

Thanks for the advice about the whole kit. I had read everything I could find on it over the last week and had come to the same conclusion. There is a guy named Jeff cube on eBay who sells whole clutch kits for $180 for the b7100. Includes pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing and the pilot bushing. I should still get the rear main seal, thanks for reminding me.

I got the tractor for a fair price a few weeks ago, but it has had a handful of things that needed fixing. Should have a solid tractor for 15 years or so, once I get it all back together. Can't wait! I will try and get a few pics up tonight.

 

[kubotasam]

If you remove the flywheel to replace the rear main seal make sure to mark the indexing of the flywheel to crankshaft. It is only designed to fit one way to keep the timing mark on the flywheel correct. However I have read of people getting them on incorrectly. There is no line up pin and the distance between the bolt holes is so slight around the crank that the bolts can be forced to thread into the incorrect holes.

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks, Sam. I read a few horror stories about that, so it was one of the first things I did when I got it all apart. I was trying to figure out what everyone meant by marking their clutch and flywheel. Then I realized they meant the actual crankshaft.

 

[MMudd]

make sure you deal with the pilot bushing. I just purchased my B7100 last fall from guy who replaced clutch pressure plate T/O bearing. He did not replace pilot bushing. Clutch failed after about 10 hours of use. due to wobble of input shaft, clutch plate flew apart. I actually had to machine a bronze bushing to fit in end of crank because crankshaft was walloed out due to bushing being out for so long, Kubota part would no longer fit.

Another thing that helped for easy reinstallation was removing the input shaft from transmission to use as alignment tool when installing clutch/pressure plate on flywheel. It is snap ring that is not too bad to get at

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks MMudd, I was planning to do that after reading the horror stories of exactly what you are describing. Probably read your post if you put it out there at some point, with all the reading I have tried doing on this. I also appreciate the advice regarding the input shaft.

Here are the pics I mentioned: album, for those interested

Pilot Bushing, removed lots of shavings of medal, but I think it is mostly intact:


Clutch disc, may not have needed replacing, but I had already ordered whole kit before thinking to measure. I figured a good bit was worn away until I received the new one and they look almost identical:


Flywheel, which is being resurfaced right now:


I will try and get a picture of the clutch fork, but I think it has a good bit of the "original shape" that I have seen discussed. However I don't know of a reference to compare my measurements to. Also I will have to figure out how to adjust the fingers, that is something I am completely unfamiliar with at this time. I hope to put it all back together tonight - at least the clutch portion.

 

[MMudd]

adjustment is pretty straight forward. I could look it up in my book if you can't find it.

 

[MMudd]

I would have that flywheel resurfaced.

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks MMudd. I picked up the flywheel from the shop yesterday after it had been resurfaced, so I got that done. My confusion comes from where I am supposed to measure from for the distance spec? I think the book spec'd a min and max and I found the average of the two to be 1.7915". I just don't know what I am trying to measure. The flywheel is counter sunk in the middle, so my distance to the top of my fingers(I think), where the throw out bearing would press, is much deeper than 1.7915". I was just using the end of the micrometer to gauge a depth instead of a proper tool, but thought that was acceptable. This was a post that I had found, that I was using as a guide:
B7100 Pressure Plate Adjustment

Thanks for your input thus far!

 

[chknscratch]

Just to be clear. I think I do understand how to physically adjust the pressure plate fingers, just unclear on what I am trying to measure.

 

[MMudd]

I probably did my measurement wrong, but I think I measured the height of fingers (new Kubota pressure plate) before installation and checked they were all within the tolerance of each other. After bolting up, checked for the same relationship to each finger beaing nearly identical in hieght. It works fine but probably left too much faith in the Kubota part being ready to go. It would be very difficult as I recall to measure off the flat surface of your flywheel where clutch rides after installation, cause the disc is in the way. I guess you could factor in the distance where flywheel is counter sunk and add to overall value you are shooting for or make up a U shape jig that would get measurement from the outside flat surface of flywheel that would provide a reference.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The measurement is done from the disks contact surface on the flywheel.
Most built clutches should be fairly close at the start.
You will also probably just need to adjust the clutch pedal linkage to get it where the throwout bearing is not riding on the pressure plate.

 

[chknscratch]

Thanks guys. What am I actually measuring too, though? I think I am clear as to where to measure on flywheel, but what reference point am I checking to? Top or bottom of pressure finger nearest the center axis of the setup or somewhere else?

Pressure Plate:


Resurfaced flywheel:

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes to the top surface where the throwout bearing contacts the fingers.

 

[chknscratch]

Great! Thank you NIW!

 

[chknscratch]

Been a busy month, a few trips to out of town. Just getting back to this after spending a while trying to get my pilot bushing out. I just pulled off rear engine seal.
I am curious if these rigid edges should be of any concern? I think I am looking at part of my crankshaft, where the cylinder attaches to the shaft. Can anyone please confirm if these harsh angles are standard? Wanting confirmation before putting oil seal back in place. TIA!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes it's fine the seal does not go in that far and the seal rides on the center not the back.