B7100 Temp Gauge

Alexisferos

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L-1501 DT
Oct 24, 2013
245
4
18
Greece
Don't worry about the radiator, drill and braze it after, i have seen a lot o plugs like that, one picture is here at this site but i cannot find it.
Maybe the readings are a little lower from the head but it will be close enough the maximum temp.

For me the most perfect place for a temp gauge is the place that Kubota had choose , and that is at the head near the injectors.
like olthumpa did it and like mine, Tap into Head

One other reason for me not to like the hose adapter is that it is from aluminium and and radiator is from brass, so the corrosion eventually is gonna come.
 
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olthumpa

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L275
May 25, 2011
1,501
3
38
Maine
Othumpa, is that where the freeze plug is? (No , it was a 20mm threaded plug located on the top of the head), I wonder if that is a good place to have it... I would think in the 7100 with the open symphonic system, the hottest reading would be near the top of the motor or radiator...:confused:

The more I look at that pic it looks to be near the top of the motor. (yes, in the place that Alexisferos points out in his first photo) I'll take a look at mine tomorrow and see if I can make that work with a bushing. I'm guessing you used JB because it is metric threads? (correct, I could not find an adapter or combination of bushings that would work without raising the probe 3 or more inches above the head - they might be out there but I could not find one)
From the post post #59 in the thread I cited above:
(needed to make an adapter, could not find one for the love of money. I used the 20mm plug that I took out of the back right of the block and drilled a hole in it- made it to large. Took one or the adapters that came with the kit and ground it down as far as I dare without damaging the seat and another one that I had and used JB WELD to bond the three together - don't laugh skeets it worked.)
 

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
Jul 13, 2014
768
7
0
Western, MA
Thanks for the info Othumpa, I'll check that out and see what I can come up with.

Alex, you make a good point about the aluminum. I'll see if I can get it into the head like Othumpa did, I don't care for the look of a inline T, but it's a good last resort.
 

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
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Bedford - VA
Thanks for the info Othumpa, I'll check that out and see what I can come up with.

Alex, you make a good point about the aluminum. I'll see if I can get it into the head like Othumpa did, I don't care for the look of a inline T, but it's a good last resort.
Guys.....

we are talking about galvanic reaction. The pieces need to be in "contact" with one another and in a chemical/electrical situation.....and when have we ever had an aluminum head on a cast iron block?....or a copper and brass radiator with aluminum fins? Or all of the above? Plus the solution that flows through all of this has good ol' stuff that slows down all of this too - unless you are running straight water.

AND as far as looks.......three different adaptors on a tapped head look good or an adaptor on top of the radiator ?

I think, and opinions are like butt holes.....everyone has one.......the upper hose is the exact place that the water needs to be measured. As the heated water rises, it should be no hotter than when it leaves the head and starts it's path to the radiator - much like where the thermostat is located on a pumped system.

IF you place a thermostat at the top of the radiator and it is NOT in the water, it will read higher than it should, due to the steam being hotter than the surrounding water, the steam is what sounds off the whistle too. IF you have too little water in the system it will NOT circulate and overheat and too much water - it will expand and get kicked out of the system.

Drilling into the head or the radiator is a very exact, precise thing, and both expensive if not done correctly! The hose is a solution that requires little knowledge and inexpensive if there is a problem after the fact.
 

OldeEnglish

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Equipment
B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
Jul 13, 2014
768
7
0
Western, MA
Hookie, your absolutely right. The T would be much easier and I found one that would work perfectly. If I was to braze an adapter onto the top radiator tank, I would do it on the side towards the bottom of the tank to get it into the water. I'm going to try it in my old radiator just for the hell of it because I enjoy a challenge. If it doesn't work well, I won't attempt it on my new radiator. Finding a metric X IPS adapter would be challenging, and I agree the best water temp reading would be in the hose or top of radiator. Thanks for your input, I always appreciate everyone's knowledge of the Orange :).