long story short, and a cry for help. I was removing the bolts that hold the pto guard on so I could install my new rops. all three on left side snapped. whats the best way to remove these now. I would normally heat them up and go from there but the housing isn't steel. I wish it was cast as I'd just melt the bolt out. any assistance would be greatly appreciated
b7100 pto shield/rops bolts
- Thread starter gas man
- Start date
cliffboyer
Active member
Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
I would likely try welding on a nut first to see if they could be backed out.
Other option if that fails is to drill them out with a reverse-twist bit. They might extract them. Can always retap thread, even go up one size if needed.
Other option if that fails is to drill them out with a reverse-twist bit. They might extract them. Can always retap thread, even go up one size if needed.
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
I usually advise PB blaster, candle wax, or ATF/Acetone first, then drill for an EZ out. Just be absolutely sure you keep the drilling centered in the broken bolt. Some of my toughest repairs have been on bolts that had been drilled off center, making a difficult job even harder.
You can soak them like Bill suggested, but you probably did that already. If you can weld a nut on, the heat generated will help to loosen the crud, once it cools back down. I've welded some with a stick welder, but a wire welder is a thousand times easier! Even did some and put ice cubes on it as soon as done welding. Patience is a virtue here!
I've been spraying with pb blaster. i'm thinking about cross drilling and then soaking through that hole. I have the stick and a mig, but i'm thinking gas welding a nut on might get a better grab on whats left ( I don't tig yet ). I do remember now welding nuts onto the studs of my old ford to replace the exhaust gaskets
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Part of the reason welding a nut on works so well is the heat differential -- hot bolt, cold base metal -- breaks the adhesion. Then the weldment shrinks as it cools and contracts the top of the bolt slightly when it does.
Torch welding is slow and heats the surrounding base metal too much, which expands and contracts along with the bolt. Stick or MIG is preferred as the heat is concentrated and so brief it does not transfer as much heat to the base metal.
just wanted to past an update. after a week of soaking, I welded on some nuts and no go. ended up have to run the torch on them quite hare and keep working the bolts to get them out. chased the threads and installed the rops. started mocking up the new work lights.
