B7100 HST-D charging

[BrisMatt]

Hello,

I have just tested the voltage from my battery leads whilst the tractor is running, without a battery connected and I got about 1.2V at full RPM. I tested the Dyno wires and I got the correct voltage in AC (I think up to 30V). I assume that I should be getting 12v feeding back to the battery? if so, is the regulator the most likely problem here.
Thanks
Matt

 

[Dave_eng]

Hello,

I have just tested the voltage from my battery leads whilst the tractor is running, without a battery connected and I got about 1.2V at full RPM. I tested the Dyno wires and I got the correct voltage in AC (I think up to 30V). I assume that I should be getting 12v feeding back to the battery? if so, is the regulator the most likely problem here.
Thanks
Matt

Yes, but check for rodent eaten wires first.
This diagnostic procedure written by Forum Member Lugbolt is an excellent reference.
Dave

 

[85Hokie]

Hello,

I have just tested the voltage from my battery leads whilst the tractor is running, without a battery connected and I got about 1.2V at full RPM. I tested the Dyno wires and I got the correct voltage in AC (I think up to 30V). I assume that I should be getting 12v feeding back to the battery? if so, is the regulator the most likely problem here.
Thanks
Matt

Curious - why remove the battery ? The reading would have been battery voltage before and after the starting, battery voltage would have gone down slightly while running.

this a 2 wire or 3 wire?

I too would check for mice eating the wiring.

Your B7100 - older or new series? ( 4 bolt front or 6)

 

[BrisMatt]

Yes, but check for rodent eaten wires first.
This diagnostic procedure written by Forum Member Lugbolt is an excellent reference.
Dave

ok thanks, I will check this out.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If the regulator is an SCR based 'rectifer-regulator' similar to B&S units, you need the battery connected. If transistor based, you'll need a 'load' resistor. Would have to see what's 'inside the box'.
In either case, the unit MUST be properly grounded ( wired back to -ve of battery ) to work though !
Vermin and Mother Nature can destroy wiring.....

 

[BrisMatt]

Yes, but check for rodent eaten wires first.
This diagnostic procedure written by Forum Member Lugbolt is an excellent reference.
Dave

Curious - why remove the battery ? The reading would have been battery voltage before and after the starting, battery voltage would have gone down slightly while running.

this a 2 wire or 3 wire?

I too would check for mice eating the wiring.

Your B7100 - older or new series? ( 4 bolt front or 6)

It actually hasn't had a battery for about a year, Ive just been using my small lithium 12v jump starter to run it.

It has two wires, im pretty sure its an older B7100.

 

[TerryKing]

Most "dead" batteries put out at least half their nominal voltage even with very small loads.

Many voltage regulators will not start working unless some voltage is supplied. And some (older?) one could be damaged by running with no battery at all.

Connect any old 12V battery, jump start the tractor and THEN see what the battery voltage is..

 

[GreensvilleJay]

most rect-regs will have 4 or 6 wires. If 4, 2 go to dynamo(AC ), red is +12v to battery, blk is the ground.
They sell for about $40.
I don't know what's inside though.

 

[BrisMatt]

Most "dead" batteries put out at least half their nominal voltage even with very small loads.

Many voltage regulators will not start working unless some voltage is supplied. And some (older?) one could be damaged by running with no battery at all.

Connect any old 12V battery, jump start the tractor and THEN see what the battery voltage is..

but wouldnt the voltage from the dyno feeding 30ish V AC into the regulator be enough to start the regulator?

 

[TerryKing]

wouldnt the voltage from the dyno feeding 30ish V AC into the regulator be enough to start the regulator?

GOOD question. Well of course. "It Depends"... What it depends ON is the electronics question..

Most regulation systems have some chip that has to start up for anything to work. Usually there is some internal voltage regulator for the voltage regulator. IF that runs off the battery to-be-regulated and that battery is not there the circuit may never start up. In the Kubota system there is a rectifier that SHOULD supply DC power from the "Dynamo" AC generator as you suggest. But if there's NO battery or other load, the voltage may go high enough to cause a shutdown. Wish we had a diagram of what's IN the 4-wire Black Box of the Kubota regulator.

The easy test is any-old 12V battery to test with..

BAttery charging has become very complex with all the new types of batteries and safety regulations. I had dinner with my son and his wife last night. He designs energy management systems (Wind AND solar) (For THESE Guys) used in many countries. He had a go-round with the designers of a new battery charging chip from Analog Devices co. "Our regulator can do anything, you can customize it"..
-- OK, I need to use lead-acid batteries.
- Um, NOBODY uses lead-acid anymore.. there are great Lithium and other types.
-- I NEED to be able to charge the batteries when they are at -20F on a mountain top. Look it up. NONE of those Lithium based batteries can be charged at all at -20F.

- OH

It's really great ! When most of your kids know more than you do about lots of stuff