I have removed the ignition switch from my B6200. Using a multimeter set to the "ohm" portion I tested the switch. I placed the red lead from the meter on the terminal that receives power from the starter. I then went around the back of the switch to each terminal post and tested for a reading.
With the ignition in "off" there is no reading whatsoever on any terminal.
With switch in the "run" position I get a reading on one of the terminals. Which is what I think I should have if switch is working.
With switch in "start" I get a reading on a different terminal.
With switch on "prewarm glow plugs" I also get a reading.
Each reading in each position is from a different terminal. I take this as the switch working the way it should. Not sure what readings I should get but there is something there.
I have now ruled out the starter. It will crank when hot-wired, albeit slowly and sluggishly.
I will rule out a fried ignition switch since I am getting readings at the terminals.
I think I will explore next new positive and negative battery cables. I may have corrosion beneath the insulation, even though I get the same voltage reading at the battery posts as I do at the starter terminal.
Should I consider replacing the red wire that runs from the starter through the fusible link to the ignition switch? I did get a 2 volt drop from the starter terminal reading to the back of the ignition switch, from 12.59 V to 10.59 V.
This is by long term through 3 feet of snow project since my autumn was all wet.
Any guidance is appreciated. I have checked my ground and ensured that where the negative grounds to the frame is clean and free of paint and rust.
With the ignition in "off" there is no reading whatsoever on any terminal.
With switch in the "run" position I get a reading on one of the terminals. Which is what I think I should have if switch is working.
With switch in "start" I get a reading on a different terminal.
With switch on "prewarm glow plugs" I also get a reading.
Each reading in each position is from a different terminal. I take this as the switch working the way it should. Not sure what readings I should get but there is something there.
I have now ruled out the starter. It will crank when hot-wired, albeit slowly and sluggishly.
I will rule out a fried ignition switch since I am getting readings at the terminals.
I think I will explore next new positive and negative battery cables. I may have corrosion beneath the insulation, even though I get the same voltage reading at the battery posts as I do at the starter terminal.
Should I consider replacing the red wire that runs from the starter through the fusible link to the ignition switch? I did get a 2 volt drop from the starter terminal reading to the back of the ignition switch, from 12.59 V to 10.59 V.
This is by long term through 3 feet of snow project since my autumn was all wet.
Any guidance is appreciated. I have checked my ground and ensured that where the negative grounds to the frame is clean and free of paint and rust.
