B6200 Steering Box Rebuild

[jfnewell1965]

Hi,

(For those who keep seeing my posts, yes I am pretty much redoing everything on this tractor!)

The latest rebuild is the steering box.

My problem is that I have issues on many of the parts with what I would call rust, marring, pitting.

There are 52 ball bearings (I thought there were supposed to be 54), and the majority (see attached picture) no longer have a chrome/smooth surface. In fact, they look black.

Also the steering nut has pitting inside, and the steering shaft does as well on the top bearing surface.

The simplest thing to do is get a new nut/shaft combo (I already have the rebuild kit for the box), but I was wondering if there are any stop gap measures that I could implement instead of a replacement.

The steering seemed fine before (even though it was mostly water in the box!), and I was wondering if I am in a place where it will last quite a while longer if I just assemble and lubricate.

Also....any ideas on polishing the upper bearing surface on the shaft?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[D2Cat]

On my L1500 the previous owner removed the fill plug and inserted a large grease fitting. The entire box was filled with gun grease. I also made a bushing at the top of the column and a new seal there also.

Would something like that solve your problem?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

looking at your parts, your not in need of a rebuild kit, your in need of parts!
The steering wheel shaft is shot and putting a rebuild kit in it will have short term benefits, in fact I've seen it wear new parts even quicker than the old original parts!
Buy a new shaft, block, and tubes, then put a rebuild kit in it.

 

[Mudball]

This the same people I just boughht my steering box from. Fast shipping and the steering box works perfectly. It looks to be good quality.
Just thought it might be an option for you. Compare the cost and your time to a rebuild kit/parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Kubota-...els-/191504521662?hash=item2c968f19be&vxp=mtr
Good luck

 

[jfnewell1965]

All,

OK, I want D2Cat's grease idea to work, but....

I think North Idaho Wolfman's post is closer to what I will experience, so.....

While a new steering box I could just bolt in would be nice, I decided to order a new shaft/nut/complete unit for $117 + $0 shipping off a company on ebay that I have ordered from before. (Not sure if I can write their name).

The shaft is supposed to be the same on the bottom, but is 1 3/8 inches longer overall. My shaft is 20", but it seems all the aftermarket shafts are either 18 3/4" or 21 3/8". So I ordered the 21 3/8 shaft, and I am going to use the extra space to add a kind of baffle to make it harder (see image).

Thanks,
Jim

 

[jfnewell1965]

OK, Steering shaft got here two days early!!!


So here is my one remaining (for now) question.....it concerns the shims on the top of the steering box.

Everyone just says to use what was there, but.......In my case what was there was some silicone "form-a-gasket" gunk, and no shims.

My rebuild kit came with four, should I use them all?

What am I looking for? The combination that gives no play? The combination that gives almost no play?

Also, should I use permatex (or modern substitute) on the shims, or just use the shims, and that is good enough? (They are each covered in a sort of plasticy skin).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[kubotasam]

You use the shims to adjust the preload on the top and bottom bearing. With no other parts in the box insert the shaft and the top plate with no shims. Start to tighten the bolts evenly and with easy pressure while turning the shaft back and forth. If the shaft starts to bind stop and insert one of the shims then repeat the procedure. What you are looking for is a very slight pressure on the bearings. The shaft should not be able to move up and down and you feel a very slight resistance when turning the shaft.

 

[jfnewell1965]

All,

OK....got shims done, now trying to get teeth of nut and sector shaft aligned.

Does anyone know how many turns there should be left to righ?

I think I have it in the right place, but I only get 2.5 turns lock to lock and I can't remember how many it was before I took it apart.

Is there just one correct position. By this I mean is it either one tooth too low, or one tooth too high, or in the right place.

OR....

Is it possible to to be one tooth too low, or one tooth to high, and two or three teeth possible in the middle?

My impression is it is either one high, one low, or right on the money, and I think I am in the right position, but then like I said that only yields me 2.5 turns lock to lock.

Thanks for any input,
Jim

 

[D2Cat]

Jim, I don't have the answer you're looking for, but I think as long as you had the same angle on your wheels when you turn it lock to lock (and their both 2.5 turns) you'd have to have it located correctly. Can you measure a wheel in relation to the frame to get a dimension?

 

[jfnewell1965]

All,

Well, I got bad news , good news, and great news.

Bad news - I crushed the lower ball bearing carrier trying to synch the nut and sector shaft.

Good news - The new ball bearings fit the old carrier.

Great news - It is all together and working, however....

I just could not make Vic's assembly instructions work for me. SInce I screwed up one carrier, I decided I had to try something else, so I found this video on YouTube that covers a Yanmar steering box...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my-bZWSFtc4

In this method you put the steering shaft in first, get the preload set, then align the middle of the nut with the middle of the sector shaft hole, drop the sector shaft in, it is all perfectly aligned, and good to go. Final step is to set the sector shaft backlash.

Worked for me on first try.

Four turns lock to lock......and I moving on to the next thing.

 

[D2Cat]

Nice. Thanks for reporting back. It will surely help others.