B6100 loader pickup points

[Bigmatt]

Good evening group,

I’m building a subframe to mount a snow plow, and will use the same frame for a loader in the future. I’ve done a ton of reading and need to confirm my pickup points will be strong enough. I plan to grab 2 rear axle bolts and 3 motor mount bolts. A picture with the points is attached.

Is this adequate for a snow plow? Will it be good for a loader with 2 members ran to the front bumper as well?

 

[Vigo]

The factory loader subframe for the B219 loader at least (I know there is one other but forget the number) engages 3 bolts at the rear axle, 4 bolts up at the engine, and 2 bolts in the center sort of underneath the steering box, hidden by the 'floorboards'. This is from memory but pictures of the subframe are frequently posted in B6100 / B219 threads so they are out there although i don't have any on this pc and don't remember exact threads.

So it sounds like your subframe is definitely good enough for a plow and possibly good enough for a loader, but technically a little short of the factory subframe for the b219.

 

[Bigmatt]

The factory loader subframe for the B219 loader at least (I know there is one other but forget the number) engages 3 bolts at the rear axle, 4 bolts up at the engine, and 2 bolts in the center sort of underneath the steering box, hidden by the 'floorboards'. This is from memory but pictures of the subframe are frequently posted in B6100 / B219 threads so they are out there although i don't have any on this pc and don't remember exact threads.

So it sounds like your subframe is definitely good enough for a plow and possibly good enough for a loader, but technically a little short of the factory subframe for the b219.

Thanks for the pointer on the mounts under the floorboards. My tractor had rubber plugs in these mount holes. I thought they were casting holes until I pulled the plugs out and found the threaded insert. I’ll pick up the 2 in front of the floorboards. From the B219 manual it looks like that’s the stock pickup. I may pickup the 2 to the rear of the floorboard as well.

has anyone ever broken one of these tractors in half from loader use? Just curious where the weak points are.

 

[Vigo]

Yeah i have seen those rubber plugs.. aint that nice?! To find some 40 year old empty holes CLEAN and not rusted up because a company spent the extra $0.20 to put plugs in them? I love Kubota..

Anyway i have wondered that myself but with the subframe in place it doesnt really seem possible to break the tractor in the middle. Loader forces would mostly seem to put the tractor in compression front to back where its near infinitely strong..

The only thing i personally worry about with mine, is having to push and pull real hard in 4wd when the loader forces are unloading the rear tires and the front diff is doing all the work. I recently saw a picture of the pinion gear (TINY) in someone elses thread and now im skeerd. Lol

 

[barts]

I've adapted a B219 to my B5100 tractor and made the subframe, picking up the holes in the rear, center and on the engine. Tire clearance can be an issue, so watch that at full articulation and steer angles.
The B5100 has a rated load capacity with the intended loader of 300 lbs; I've maxed out the B219 before (500 lbs) w/o issues, but you really need substantial rear ballast to avoid overloading the front axle, and making it difficult to steer, tricky on side hills, etc. Use a ROPs when working w/ a loader on slopes; the tractor is definitely less stable carrying a load in the bucket.

Keep in mind that the loader places a significant downward force where the loader arms tie into the subframe, plus forces pushing the subframe to the rear and the tractor frame forward. With a substantial and stiff subframe well connected to the tractor, these forces are resolved into a lift at the rear, and a downward force at the front attachment point, and there should be little load placed on the center of the tractor.

The snow plow will load your subframe towards the rear. So long as you're careful to avoid impact loading w/ rocks, etc, it should place significantly less load on the tractor than the loader.

I just used 3 x 1/2" material for the subframe and called it good as it was heavier than the original one for a B7100 as I remember. Note that the tractor doesn't need to fly or float, so building the subframe extra strong won't hurt anything other than one's pocketbook.

- Bart

 

[Vigo]

Yes, these little b5100/6100/7100 et al are mostly limited in capability by their weight, so anything you can do within reason to add to it is generally helpful. Only major caveat being the front axle, as Bart mentioned.

I personally think these tractors are downright dangerous with an FEL unless you're carrying something pretty heavy with the 3pt. In my opinion you can't realistically add enough weight on the tractor itself, even with filled rear tires and wheel weights, to properly counterbalance even the 'mere' 500 lbs a b219 will pick up. I am usually carrying my 60" box blade, which is 'good enough'. I added ~115lbs to the rear wall of the box blade and now it's even better, but i struggle to lift it when it has much dirt in it from actual box blading, so that's a mixed bag. I figure the 60" box blade with the added weight is about ~430-450lbs. Since it only picks up about 500lbs we are limited on counterweight.. because while my rear tires never come up with the box blade, if i could pick up more i would because it would lessen the steering effort with a loaded FEL bucket!

My b8200 carries a ~1000lb subframe-mounted backhoe, and has much lower steering effort then the b6100 even when lifting more weight with the loader! That one will do 1000+ lbs off the ground and ~700lb to full height, and is NEVER as hard to steer as the b6100.

But once you have a loader, remember... you can always pick up the front tires, spin the steering wheel effortlessly, put the tires back down and carry on in a new direction. I have found that useful with operating with FEL in tight spaces.