B6000 starter switch

D2Cat

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I haven't read this entire thread, but have you taken your battery out and had it tested with a load? Made sure the cables are good? The ground to the tractor frame clean?
 

Dave_eng

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pcdreams

I am very suspicious of the negative battery cable.
Unlike the red positive cable with the factory terminal, the black negative cable has a replacement end on it. There is a clamp as part of the terminal or end which squeezes the old cable.

These are prone to all sorts of problems and you should replace this complete cable before doing anything more.

When you get the new cable, where ever it attached to the frame or the engine block, sand or file that spot so the steel is shiny clean. Make certain that the washer which attaches the new cable end to the block or frame is also shiny

You can have a poor connection which will look OK to a multimeter to read 12 volts but as soon as you ask that joint in the cable to pass high current like for a starter it stops.

Dave M7040
 

pcdreams

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May 11, 2017
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OK new cable is in and battery checked out OK. Ground point cleaned to metal.

Starter still not cranking/jumping. So. I've already disconnected all the wires and I see two nuts that have studs coming out from the flywheel housing. Are those the only two I'm looking for? I've got them off but it doesn't seem to be budging. Wanted to check before getting the mallet out :)
 

Dave_eng

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pcdreams



To be certain we understand each other. I am thinking, based upon your description, that there are two studs that are part of the engine block and the starter slides over the two studs and is secured in place by two nuts threaded unto the studs. These locations I have marked #1 & #2 in the photo.

Posting a picture of yours before you get violent with it would be wise.

My inclination would be to hit the starter towards the engine block with a rubber mallet. The machined area in the marked up picture will be a tight fit made tighter by rust on the cast iron engine block and hitting the starter side ways at the outer end may twist it loose. Alternatively, prying between the stud area of the starter and the engine block may work if you have the right pry bar or small carpenters crow bar not a screw driver.

I don't see any evidence of in in the web stuff, but sometimes the outboard end of a starter will have a bracket connected to the block so be certain to check for that. It will be readily visible.

Dave M7040
 

pcdreams

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OK she's off. It was rusted pretty good to the housing you were talking about. I've done 3 test on it and It seems OK, but I'll run it down and have the auto place test it.

With it off the solonoid throws the gear, the starter spins, and the throw out comes forward as I understand it should.
 

Dave_eng

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pcdreams

My advice is to take it to a smaller independent starter and alternator repair place and have them test it and clean it up. It may just need new brushes and a starter solenoid and it can be fixed then and there.

Starters are not made by Kubota but large companies who then sell them to the tractor manufacturers. Thus the repair guys don't need all the make model serial number info as they will likely recognize it.

It is is the original starter and you have it fixed you will likely have a better unit than buying a new one on ebay.

Dave M7040
 

pcdreams

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well I was trying to post a pic of it but for some reason I can't

Thanks everyone for the help. It's going to be a little while
before I can go much further (lack of $$), but I'll post back when I do.
I'm really looking forward to having this thing ready to work.

Don
 
Last edited:

D2Cat

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Don, you have the starter off so just take it to your local independent shop. I'd prefer a small shop that's been in business for quite a while. They tend to be easy to visit with and problem solvers.

Let him look at your starter. He'll give you an opinion of what he sees. You can ask him what it will cost for his suggested work, and how long would it take to get done.

You don't have to leave your starter there at this time if you see it's too much cost. Just tell him you appreciate his estimate and you'll return in.....a couple of weeks (or whatever your time is).

This way you'll know what to expect as far as the starter being a major problem with your tractor not starting, and what your cost will be.

You may be pleasantly surprised at the cost.
 

Dave_eng

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pcdreams

Where did the ground cable i.e. black cable from the battery attach?

How are you powering it to do the tests with the starter off.

After seeing how rusty things are, I would like to see you clean up the tight area of the starter into the engine block and the areas where the nuts secure the starter to the engine.

My thinking is possibly the starter was not grounding properly when installed.

I think it is easy to reinstall after cleaning up the areas mentioned above and running the ground cable direct to the starter studs held on by the nuts. Use a clean shiny washer to hold the cable before the nuts go on and clean the studs up.

Maybe you will get lucky and your problem is solved. There is no $ involved so spending a little time might be productive

Dave M7040
 

pcdreams

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b6000
May 11, 2017
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Springfield, MO
Took your suggestion and cleaned up both the starter, opening in the housing , and pegs, Reinstalled and she's good to go. There was a lot of rust around so I assume it just wasn't making ground. Even sounds different/better.

Now it's onto belt and hoses.
 

pcdreams

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May 11, 2017
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Me too. I got the new belt on. Got to get clamps and antifreeze tomorrow. I think I'm going to flush it before I fill it.

Can't wait to fire it up. Next on the agenda will be the hydraulic hoses.
 

Dave_eng

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Don't forget now that you have learned a lot, as a forum member you have an obligation to help others who are facing problems and are a bit lost on what to do.

You may feel you still have a lot to learn and while that is true, we were all at a low level of knowledge at one time and others helped us to learn.

You have not said what you are going to use the B6000 for.

I believe it is a Asian Kubota and I think you will find that the pto shaft turns backwards compared to models designed for North America. The Grey section of this forum has a wealth of info on the similarities and differences between various models designed for the Asian market and those designed for the North American market including options if you find your pto is turning backwards. Backwards would mean the pto, when standing behind the tractor and looking at the pto shaft is rotating counter clockwise. They are both the same Kubota products just having different features in some areas.

Dave M7040
 

pcdreams

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b6000
May 11, 2017
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0
6
Springfield, MO
This one does have the reverse PTO. I've got a plow and flail mower for it as well as a hydraulic blade on the front and a 3pt for the rear. I'll likely use it mostly for 3-pt stuff as I also have a Ford 3000.

I'd like to get a small disk, drag, and cultipacker for it. Would like to put down some cover crops in the front field (3/4 acre) and I think this'd be the right size. It'll fit between the trees in the orchard much better than the Ford. :D
 

Dave_eng

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Oct 6, 2012
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This one does have the reverse PTO. I've got a plow and flail mower for it as well as a hydraulic blade on the front and a 3pt for the rear. I'll likely use it mostly for 3-pt stuff as I also have a Ford 3000.

I'd like to get a small disk, drag, and cultipacker for it. Would like to put down some cover crops in the front field (3/4 acre) and I think this'd be the right size. It'll fit between the trees in the orchard much better than the Ford. :D
pc............

You need to check that the flail mower is turning the right way for a proper cut unless you know it came with the tractor when new.

Dave M7040