B6000 PTO hydraulics downward force

[Oregonconversion]

When I put the tiller up it goes up fast and smooth. When I put it down it goes under its own weight and I can not get any hydraulic downward force. Is this normal or did I buy it broken?

Also I am missing a fender and headlight(the remaining one does not work), and has a rino seat cover. Is this normal?


Overall great tractor and works perfect for its weight class!

Cheers!

 

[BadDog]

Typical 3 point has no down force.

 

[Rob]

gravity lower, but you can adjust the rate of descent , small adjustment bolt under seat.

rob

 

[hodge]

Typical 3 point has no down force.

This^- your tractor isn't broken. Most tractors don't have downforce on the 3 point.
The missing parts, of course, aren't normal. You can post in the wanted section here, or go to West Kentucky Tractor Parts (wkytpstore.com), or search ebay.
Some folks upgrade the headlights, since the stock ones are pretty poor. You can search for posts- quite a few have done it.

 

[Oregonconversion]

ok thanks guys, sounds like I need some weight to till my hard packed dirt. Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward.

 

[BadDog]

Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward.

That may be. I was recently surprised to learn that the 6000 has a PTO rotation backward to most everything else. There are threads here discussing the options.

As for tilling hard soil, you may be best served by running a buster or chisel plow through to break it up first, then run the tiller. Even without counter rotation, that may be enough to allow you to accomplish your goals? However, running a tiller backwards may not be good for it's longevity, depending on how it was constructed.

 

[lsmurphy]

Will a gear drive tiller care which direction it runs?

 

[BadDog]

That I don't know, it depends on how it was made, and how it was designed to take torque/thrust/pressure loads. I've got a feeling that's something you'll need to determine yourself, or maybe contact manufacturer is possible.

 

[76_Bronco]

ok thanks guys, sounds like I need some weight to till my hard packed dirt. Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward.

What ground speed are you tilling at?

 

[freewheel3]

ok thanks guys, sounds like I need some weight to till my hard packed dirt. Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward.

Huh??? Switching the tines does not change the rotation of the tiller. Adding weight to the tiller will shorten its life span and is not the answer. You need to use a different type of implement to bust up that hard ground first, then till it.
Or, maybe water it down good and let it soften up. If you're going to try growing anything in it, you're going to have to add some better soil / compost to soften it up.

 

[hodge]

Using the a forward rotation tiller on a tractor with a reverse-rotation pto, or vice-versa, would have the back of the tines digging in. Turning the tines around would allow the cutting edge to work. Changing the tines didn't change the direction, he made it work with the direction it was already turning.

 

[skeets]

Seems a common mistake a lot of guys make is they try to take a BIG bite first time through,, yes I was one of those guys too,,, start by setting it maybe an inch down and run it through, that will kick up all the sod and weeds,,, then drop it another inch or 2 and same thing again,, until you get all the way down,, and yes you aint gona do it in one pass!!! Depending on how large a plot your tilling you might really think about adding some things to the dirt, like grass clippings and LIME and sand,, If you are really interested send a large cross area sample to your agriculture center, state or local,, they will tell you what you need for the soil to grow what ever it is you want to grow and how to amend the soil,, Just remember all those adds you see with a tiller digging like a mole on speed are done in dirt that has been worked over many many many times.. Just MHO mind you

 

[freewheel3]

Using the a forward rotation tiller on a tractor with a reverse-rotation pto, or vice-versa, would have the back of the tines digging in. Turning the tines around would allow the cutting edge to work. Changing the tines didn't change the direction, he made it work with the direction it was already turning.

Tines are directional. So the PO must have had them on backwards? Ahh, I see now. Thanks for the clarification. I do know that my B6000 with the factory S850 tiller turns in a forward rotation. No reverser on it.

 

[Stubbyie]

My experience is that even the best tillers are not designed to break hard virgin soil. I've seen them literally throw sparks trying a first pass on new soil. Can't be good on tines or gearbox.

Break with a single- or two-bottom plow or disk [harrow] first, even if you have to rent or borrow one for a half-day. Then use the tiller to finish working the soil. You don't want to pulverize it to dust.

In some of my "garden" areas I've had to wait on a rainy spell to make soil semi-manageable then use a backhoe to turn it over the first time. Then tilling gets easy going into the future. In this case soil amendments were necessary but paid off.

 

[hodge]

My experience is that even the best tillers are not designed to break hard virgin soil. I've seen them literally throw sparks trying a first pass on new soil. Can't be good on tines or gearbox.

Break with a single- or two-bottom plow or disk [harrow] first, even if you have to rent or borrow one for a half-day. Then use the tiller to finish working the soil. You don't want to pulverize it to dust.

In some of my "garden" areas I've had to wait on a rainy spell to make soil semi-manageable then use a backhoe to turn it over the first time. Then tilling gets easy going into the future. In this case soil amendments were necessary but paid off.

I agree. Break the ground in steps, instead of trying to till it right off.