I know this topic has been covered many times, and I try to do my homework first, but sometimes I get confused. I have a B6000 which the previous owner has tapped into the built-in hydraulic system. He added a control valve, but I have no idea what he used it for. I obtained a lift (like an engine hoist cherry picker) that mounts on the 3-pt and I replaced the hand pump cylinder with a cylinder that can be controlled by the valve. It works very well. I am in the process of making a DIY FEL which will require hydraulics to operate. I've been told that the B6000 hydraulics "might" be adequate for the FEL. It will of course use 4 cylinders similar to the one I used on the lift. Most of the discussions I've read about powering little FELs mention GPM and PSI. The B6000 service manual on page 38 gives 10.8 lpm and 85 kg/cm^2, which I calculate to be 0.264 GPM and 1208 PSI. Is that correct? Because most FEL conversations that mention flow rate use numbers like 5 to 12 GPM needed. That's 20 to 50 times what the B6000 provides, unless I made a mistake in my understanding or my calculation. Now I'm shopping for parts. Aside from all the advice I've seen offered, common sense tells me that a 2-spool control valve like the Surpluscenter ITEM NUMBER: 9-12461 would be appropriate. It is spec'd at 10 GPM max. I don't have to push it to the limit, but it makes me wonder if the B6000 is up to the task without an auxiliary pump. Since the lift cylinder I added works fine, I am hopeful for the FEL, but the discrepancy in the numbers bothers me. Sorry to be so long-winded. Am I worrying for no reason, or am I missing something? Any advice, comment, opinion will be appreciated.
B6000 hydraulics capabilities question
- Thread starter Darrell Goodwin
- Start date
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I think you moved a decimal point a little too far somehow. 10.8 liter/min should be more like 2.38 gal/min. My L4701 spec sheet lists it both ways: 29.4 l/m; 7.8 gpm. I’m not a hydraulic expert but I do know the 7.8 gpm works quite nicely with my LA765 loader. Hard to believe you’d need 10gpm but I’m no expert.
freewheel3
Active member
Equipment
MX5000DT LA852, BX1800D, B6000DT, B6200HSTD, B7100HSTD, L185, T1700HX, ZD1211
I bought this B6000 with the loader on it 8 years ago. Even with the rototiller on the back it has no problems lifting the back end off the ground if you're not careful, and at even 3/4 throttle the loader is very quick moving, almost too quick when trying to be precise. There is no auxiliary hydraulic pump on this tractor.
Ahh. I'm glad it was a mistake on my part. That makes more sense. I'm not always good at math; I'm glad you were able to see my error when I asked for help. Thank you for pointing that out.
I appreciate hearing that from you. I feel more confident about using the built-in hydraulics, which saves a couple hundred dollars.
I knew the flow rate affects the speed, that's why my erroneous number seemed so odd. The single cylinder on my lift pulls fenceposts quickly and easily; I'll be happy if the loader lifts 1/4 as fast. I was told I need at least 4 GPM for reasonable speed, but I can live with just under 3, I'm sure. That 0.2 number I got by mistake was too far off to ignore. I'm starting to think the tractor's system can give a reasonable balance between speed and lift without an auxiliary pump. At my age, a lot more falls into the category of "reasonable." A slow loader is still a lot faster than an old man with a shovel and a wagon or wheelbarrow.
Yes sir, that would probably match the power steering of many newer machines. The B6000 doesn't have power steering, if it did, it would decrease power to some other feature. I'm old and tired too, can't move the heavy stuff like I used to, but I can crank the wheel to point the loader in the right direction. Kubota did a really good job of squeezing every ounce of performance out of the guts of that tractor. When the B6000 was new, I was driving a John Deere model B. To start it, we had to grab the flywheel with both hands and spin it and hope it fired, because if it didn't start the first time, it was flooded. I bought it from "Junior." He was 6'5" and 300# of solid gristle. He made it look easy. Maybe I'll get power steering on my next tractor.
Ah yes . . . when I was about 12, Dad had hired Mr. Ab, a big man, to bale hay. I was supposed to be hauling hay, but Mr. Ab needed somebody to run the rake, pulled by a B. My previous experience was our Allis Chalmers 'C' (the other orange), but I jumped at the chance to get out of throwing those bales, so I got on. After seeing him throw his bulk into starting the thing, all I could think about was not stalling it. Then I looked down to put it in gear, and about choked
That shift pattern looked like a rat maze compared to the AC's 3 speed!
freewheel3
Active member
Equipment
MX5000DT LA852, BX1800D, B6000DT, B6200HSTD, B7100HSTD, L185, T1700HX, ZD1211
I feel the same way. My B6000 won't win any races, but it'll run all day on a half gallon of diesel and is a lot easier than a shovel and a wheelbarrow. One thing I will say is that you don't want to "crank" on the steering wheel, especially with a bucket full. The steering boxes on these are a weak point. My advice, for what it's worth, is to take your turns wide and slow.
That's an excellent point. I've been guilty of doing that when I get into a tight corner, but up to now the weight has been at the rear. Many loaders for small tractors require additional weight in the rear to offset the load and keep the tractor balanced with all 4 wheels on the ground. That adds even more stress, and since the "frame" is basically also the transmission housing, your advice is especially important to remember. Thank you for pointing that out.
Do you Know if it is the original pump? Is it mounted on the side of the motor assy. Or on the front pto?
I’m in the process of building a FEL. PF Engineering design.
Thanks, Alex