B6000 hydraulic leak

[pcdreams]

I've just replaced my hydraulic hoses and cleaned up the controller. I have a leak that I can't seem to get stopped. It's the bolt (what the book calls the filter). I'm posting a pic so it's clear what we're talking about. What it had originally was a copper washer, I tried a couple different sized o-rings but they tended to squeeze out and I tried a fiber washer. I'm beginning to think the leak maybe above the piece the bolt goes through. The book shows a copper washer there as well, but I can't figure how to get at it without removing the pump.
Hydraulic Leak

 

[pcdreams]

Here is a picture of the area from the manual hydraulic from manual

I'll try and get out there tomorrow and take the bolt back out, but it looks quite a bit different than the one in the picture. Unless I'm totally wrong about that picture in the manual being where I think it is.

 

[D2Cat]

Your first picture looks like it's at the bottom of the hyd. pump up front by the injection pump.

That strainer you show in the second picture is in the hydraulic line in the back, right side behind your right heel as you set on the tractor.

The line that connects to the pump in the front usually has an 0-ring to seal it. In the back is has brass on both sides, I think. You take that real strainer out of the line, you better have something to catch the hyd. oil!!!!

 

[pcdreams]

That makes more sense.

Hmm so I wonder why it keeps leaking. It does have a brass washer, I've tried a couple different o-rings, and the fiber washer, but just keeps on. I thought I might be over tightening because the o-ring kept pushing out, but leaving it lose enough to not crush it made the leak worse. The fiber washer seemed like it had it stopped, until I used the hydraulics, then it leaked like a sieve.

 

[D2Cat]

Look up banjo bolt washers. I'm sure your home town O'Reilly Auto would have them!! They're copper, flat and come in various sizes.

 

[pcdreams]

This may be a dumb question but does the o-ring go between the bolt head and the washer or between the washer and the metal on the connecting part?

 

[D2Cat]

"They're copper"!

The go on both sides on the back where the strainer is located.

The picture you show on the hyd pump has one 0-ring, then the bolts go through the fitting into the pump.

 

[D2Cat]

This video might help you see how a banjo bolt works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDPNDKjMrzk

 

[pcdreams]

Thanks, I'd never heard anything but rubber called o-rings before. And that video is good to know.

I'm actually just messing with the one on the pump now. I was confused by the picture in the manual at first.

 

[D2Cat]

The copper washers are kinda like the flat washer you find on your oil drain plug. A banjo bolt uses a flat copper washer to get a positive seal.

 

[pcdreams]

what I can't make out is if there's a way to check the other side of the banjo connection that's against the pump. The only way I could see to do that would be to remove the 4 bolts in the block, but that introduces more leak potential. lol.

Think I'm getting ahead of myself though. I'll get the washer first and see how things go. I've a feeling it may just be crushed.

 

[D2Cat]

OK, I got to back up. Are you working on the front end of your tractor or the back end?

If it's the front, that connection has an 0-ring. If you need room to get to the 0-ring you'll have to remove the four bolts...that's probably the easiest. Many tractors will have a hose in that line for some flex. Doesn't look like your does though.

 

[pcdreams]

yes the front end.

 

[pcdreams]

Got it apart. Think the leak is caused in part because there was no o-ring/washer between the pump and the banjo fitting. Going to clean all those surfaces and head to auto parts store.

 

[bakeroldfolks2]

Got it apart. Think the leak is caused in part because there was no o-ring/washer between the pump and the banjo fitting. Going to clean all those surfaces and head to auto parts store.

I just replaced all of the seals and o rings on mine. The filter takes 2orings at the trans and 2 at the pump , the pressure side takes 2 copper seals at pump and at the trans .Got my parts at Coleman's for under 10 bucks

Sent from my Y538 using Tapatalk

 

[pcdreams]

Thanks Baker,
Couldn't find any locally. The one's the auto part stores have fit over the bolt but are to lose. I'll def check Coleman's

 

[bakeroldfolks2]

Thanks Baker,
Couldn't find any locally. The one's the auto part stores have fit over the bolt but are to lose. I'll def check Coleman's

I'll get the part numbers for you in the morning if you need them. Let me know if you do. I had to replace the pressure pipe on mine it had a crack right at the end spayed oil everywhere.

Sent from my Y538 using Tapatalk

 

[D2Cat]

I believe if you call a dealer, like Coleman, you will not get much help. They do not have any Gray market parts list on their computers, and will tell you they do not have any parts for Gray marketed tractors. They were not intended for import to the US.

However, you can probably get the correct parts by asking of sealing parts for a B6100. I'm not positive of the interchange, but someone who has a B6000 may have an answer.

 

[pcdreams]

OK folks, I got the new seals and it fixed part of the problem. No leaks when it's running or if I raise lower blade or turn it side to side. However if I happen to hit the end of the piston (left/right or top out) the engine bogs down and it dumps fluid out the connection I just put the seals on. It kind of sounds like an over pressure thing maybe? I also realize there likely is air in the system since I just replaced the hoses. So I'm looking for things to check. I know even less about hydraulics if that's possible.

 

[lnwilcoxson]

I can't speak for all the Coleman's location, but the one in Smithville has helped me several time with parts for my B6000. I have used Messick's as well with 0 problems.