B6000 Engine Rebuild

[cruiserbill]

I am finally in a position to get started on the B6000 engine rebuild. I bought all the parts, had the block, head, crank etc... gone over by a machine shop. They put the new sleeves in for me too. Everything (I hope) is ready to be put back together. THAT is where my problems lies:

1. I have never done a complete rebuild
2. The motor was torn down before I got it.
3. I have NO idea where to begin.

I have the service manual, but it is not really all inclusive on rebuilding it. Certainly not a step by step guide.

So I turn to all of you to help guide me through this process, if some of you could be so kind. I can only work on it a few hours on Saturdays so it could take a little while to get this going.

My thoughts are that the crank should go on first, but that is just an assumption.

 

[Aluthin]

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=158210 check this thread out it should help follow the link the author put up he gives some insight into his engine rebuild sorry can't help more not done one myself but will be in the future when I can afford the parts and the time

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[cruiserbill]

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=158210 check this thread out it should help follow the link the author put up he gives some insight into his engine rebuild sorry can't help more not done one myself but will be in the future when I can afford the parts and the time

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Thanks, I did read through his write up, a couple times. I just need more details. I have used several things from his thread though. It helped quite a bit.

 

[Aluthin]

Have you tried messaging the original poster through the forum to see if he can help?

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[cruiserbill]

Have you tried messaging the original poster through the forum to see if he can help?

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I just reached out to him, thanks for the idea. It really didn't cross my mind to do that.

If I could get an order of assembly that would help immensely. My biggest fear is not getting the crank and rods in correctly. I have never messed with those bearings before.

 

[Aluthin]

Good luck and keep us all posted ***128526;

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[cruiserbill]

Well, I've had no luck getting any guidance. I am stalling on starting in on this due to the fact I can't figure out what the mains and rods clearance should be. I don't know what size of plastigage to buy because of that.

Any one know the mains and rod clearances of a B6000 XL600? The dealer said all he had was a 6100 manual and it called for .008 which sounds incredibly loose to me and that is a 3 cyl also.

First thing going in is the crank if I can figure this out. With a long weekend, this is the perfect time!

 

[406nick]

I just rebuilt my b6000 recently so I would be happy to help if I can. Why don't you private message me and I will get you any info I can.

 

[cruiserbill]

I just rebuilt my b6000 recently so I would be happy to help if I can. Why don't you private message me and I will get you any info I can.

Sending PM, thanks Nick

 

[rentthis]

Check to see if the person that disassembled the engine was smart enough to label the parts as he worked. A number scratched, punch marks etc. If you are replacing pistons in new liners, and had the crank ground, you should only have to determine positioning of the main bearing carriers. Hopefully he marked them. Be sure to note the alignment of the rods to the pistons. You don't want them 180 out.

 

[cruiserbill]

Check to see if the person that disassembled the engine was smart enough to label the parts as he worked. A number scratched, punch marks etc. If you are replacing pistons in new liners, and had the crank ground, you should only have to determine positioning of the main bearing carriers. Hopefully he marked them. Be sure to note the alignment of the rods to the pistons. You don't want them 180 out.

Great advice, thanks. I do have new pistons, rings and liners. The machine shop put new bushings in the rods. One of the mains was still attached to the crank when it went to the shop. I haven't looked at it all yet so I am not sure if they were labeled or not. I loaded it all up and gave it to the machine shop.

I tried to buy everything I could new so as to not have a problem with intermixing parts such as lifters and bearings.

I got the tractor from a friend who is the nephew of the guy that owned it. Trouble is, that fellow passed away a long time ago. This was sitting in his garage/barn for a long long time.

Bill

 

[rentthis]

Bill, if you can find the workshop manual for the engine only, they seem to be more inclusive and detailed than the one with the tractor manual. I have used servicemanualvault.com in the past. They have a selection of engine manuals. The cost for download is $9.95. You have to scroll to the bottom of the kubota section and see if your engine is included.

 

[cruiserbill]

Bill, if you can find the workshop manual for the engine only, they seem to be more inclusive and detailed than the one with the tractor manual. I have used servicemanualvault.com in the past. They have a selection of engine manuals. The cost for download is $9.95. You have to scroll to the bottom of the kubota section and see if your engine is included.

I do have that same manual they have. It is on 52 pages for the entire tractor. It gives good tips on many things, but it isn't the shop manual type I am used to. I guess that is the Achilles heal of owning a gray market tractor.

 

[cruiserbill]

Good news! I figure out the bearing clearance on the crank. I called the machine shop that did the work for me. He said that the shop that did the crank for him will put a yellow mark indicating 1000th for each one. He also said it should be stamped on the crank.

So there was stamped 010 and one yellow line. Now to me that means 0.010. I have been trying to find yellow plastigage locally, but haven't had any luck yet. I will try a few places in the morning. If I can't find it I will have to order it and that means the engine isn't going together this weekend.

 

[cruiserbill]

I ended up go through the parts book piece by piece Monday. I found I was missing a bunch of little stuff that added up to over $250.

One big item that was missing was the crank pulley. I found a used one today for $125. Kubota wants $284 for a new one. They are pretty proud of that part.

Dropping off the injectors and pump to be gone through. Just cuz. FAIK they are fine, but I'd like to be sure.

This "simple" rebuild is sure getting expensive!

Any one know how to properly shim a fuel pump? It's probably in the manual, but I haven't looked yet.

 

[cruiserbill]

Still waiting on parts. I slowed down a bit on this to make sure I get it right and understand how it is supposed to go together.

 

[cruiserbill]

I kept seeing alternators on sale for the B6000. I don't have an altenator and there wasn't one on the parts diagrams. I started researching this and kept coming across that it had a generator (dynamo). I had no idea what a dynamo is, but I certainly know what a generator is and I didn't have one of those either.

Then it dawned on me that the fan hub was called a dynamo. When I first checked it out I found 3 wires sticking out of it. I thought, "that is odd, must be a fan clutch sort of thing." Nope, that is the generator. Indeed there is no alternator, so I wonder why so many places are selling them saying they fit the B6000?

 

[100 td]

A dynamo is a permanent magnet, AC generator, you have one under the fan pulley, the AC needs to be rectified to DC via a rectifier, then controlled via a regulator, (depending on model), or by a combination rectifier/regulator.
Permanent magnet dynamos have low output, so replacement higher output alternators are sold to fit many kubotas and generally mount where the belt tension pulley are currently located. Check to see if your current dynamo and regulator works first before buying an alternator, unless you are really going to need extra power output.
As this motor has been around a long time, personally I would replace the bearings in the fan/dynamo while you are at it. Probably 2 or 3 6201's or similar, do a search and the correct bearing size will have been mentioned previously in another thread I expect. Also check out the tension pulley bearing, but if you could leave that one until you prove your dynamo etc., in case you want to fit an alternator.

 

[Drbobdc]

I am guessing this is the zl600 engine, where are you finding parts?

 

[Drbobdc]

is there an alternative to the stock air filter for the B6000?