B2920 Oil pan removal?

[gmsowers]

Is it possible to drop the oil pan on a B2920 without splitting the tractor and pulling the engine out?

While I was finishing up an oil change using a fluid extractor, the extractor tube got stuck and broke off when I tugged on it. About a foot of tubing is now somewhere in the oil pan. I removed the dipstick tube, inserted an endoscope, but couldn't see any signs of the piece of tubing.

How likely is it that a piece of plastic tubing laying in the oil pan will cause a problem?

 

[The Evil Twin]

I don't know about taking the pan off, but the tube should come out one way or another. I've dropped lifter shims and had the occasional drain plug magnet come off in assorted vehicles and don't worry about them. They are at the bottom of the pan and the oil pick up has a screen. The tube sounds long enough and light enough to swim around while the engine is running.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Is there any hope of going down the oil fill tube?

 

[gmsowers]

Is there any hope of going down the oil fill tube?

If you mean the dipstick tube bore, then no, I couldn't even see the tubing with an endoscope, much less grab it and pull it out. If you're talking about the two big bores on the top of the engine where you pour in new oil, then also no hope there. That leaves the two drain holes on the bottom of the oil pan. No hope there either unless I had some kind of surgical laparoscopic tools that would allow me to see the stuck tubing, cut it into pieces, and pull out the pieces. Like taking out a gallbladder. I haven't tried removing the oil pressure sender, but I doubt there's any hope there either. Thanks anyway.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

If you mean the dipstick tube bore, then no, I couldn't even see the tubing with an endoscope, much less grab it and pull it out. If you're talking about the two big bores on the top of the engine where you pour in new oil, then also no hope there. That leaves the two drain holes on the bottom of the oil pan. No hope there either unless I had some kind of surgical laparoscopic tools that would allow me to see the stuck tubing, cut it into pieces, and pull out the pieces. Like taking out a gallbladder. I haven't tried removing the oil pressure sender, but I doubt there's any hope there either. Thanks anyway.

According to the parts diagram, there is an oil fill plug on the right side of the gear case. It's a slim chance, but might be worth trying.

 

[The Evil Twin]

PoTreeBoy just reminded me of something- taking the dipstick tube off. I don't know about that engine, but a lot of them have a press-fit tube. Then there is some sort of fastener half way up or at the top to keep it from popping off. It is a common place for oil leaks on VW and Ford.
Anyway, maybe take a look and see how and if you can take the dipstick tube off. Might get lucky and have a little nub sticking out.

 

[Pau7220]

While I was finishing up an oil change using a fluid extractor

On a tractor with a split oil pan which requires removal of 2 drain plugs to remove all of the oil?

 

[BAP]

On a tractor with a split oil pan which requires removal of 2 drain plugs to remove all of the oil? View attachment 84161

Yes, on a B2920 you need to remove both drain plugs to do a complete oil drain. Pretty easy to do. A gadget like a oil sucking tool when it won’t do a thorough job of getting all the oil out.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Depending on how much traipsing through the woods one does, a Fumoto valve might be easiest. Then again, with 400 hour intervals, a plug isn't too bad to deal with.

 

[Pau7220]

Depending on how much traipsing through the woods one does, a Fumoto valve might be easiest. Then again, with 400 hour intervals, a plug isn't too bad to deal with.

Bad idea in general, never mind on an off road Diesel engine.

 

[Henro]

If it were me at this point, I would remove the drain plugs (and oil naturally) and use the endoscope to see if I could see the tubing of concern. If I saw it, I would try (if possible) to fish it out with a wire bent with a hook end. Probably easier said than done.

Who knows, you might get lucky.

If successful I would then return to traditional oil changes…in any case, once the issue is resolved I doubt I would use that oil change method again.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Bad idea in general, never mind on an off road Diesel engine.

Definitely not in general. As I said, it depends on if you do a lot of woods work. A field or material yard machine wouldn't ever have a problem. If you go bounding through the woodland it's probably not a good idea. Even so, there is a lot of stuff on the underbelly that could also get damaged.
I've had them on a plethora of vehicles over the last 20 years. From off road vehicles like three Jeeps (with skid plates though) to my wife's VW and my truck. Anything that is tall enough to touch it has to get past the axle first. And then still be side enough to break it off.

 

[Pau7220]

Definitely not in general.

After 50+ years of removing drain plugs, I would never have something on my oil pan that a twig or branch could open and cost me an engine. And yes, you have to think vandalism in this day and age.

 

[The Evil Twin]

After 50+ years of removing drain plugs, I would never have something on my oil pan that a twig or branch could open and cost me an engine. And yes, you have to think vandalism in this day and age.

We'll have to agree to disagree.
In hundreds of thousands of miles on road (240000 just in the VW alone) and tens of thousands in the Jeeps combines as well as plenty of trouncing around in fields and forestry roads in the F350, never once have I had one open unintentionally. Nor has anyone I've known. Not only do you have to lift and twist the handle, but a simple hose clamp can prevent the handle from being lifted.
I would be just as concerned about a plug coming out. There is a reason we have to safety wire all fluid holding bolts on race vehicles- because plugs can come out too! No disrespect intended, but if dumping your oil and running only as long as it takes to see the indicator light wastes your engine then you probably need to switch oils. But that's another thread entirely. Lol.

 

[RBsingl]

My diesel genset came with a Fumoto valve and drain hose installed by the manufacturer. It makes sense in that application because the Mitsubishi turbo-diesel has the fuel tank/base mounted close under the oil pan so removing a drain plug would be tight clearance and would create a huge mess since there is no room for any sort of catch under the drain holes.

I do have a hose clamp on the release handle but I seriously doubt if it could vibrate open and I was surprised at the fairly low amount of vibration from this 4 cylinder engine at its 1,800 RPM operating speed. But my road going vehicles and tractors have regular drain plugs including my Corvette Z06 which has two (one for the dry sump and the other for the storage tank).

Rodger

 

[Pau7220]

No disrespect intended, but if dumping your oil and running only as long as it takes to see the indicator light wastes your engine then you probably need to switch oils.

wow

 

[The Evil Twin]

wow

Sorry you took offense to it but it's true. Been there. Ruptured an oil filter (K&N had a faulty run) on the bike. 14,000 rpm for about 30 seconds judging by where the trail started. Engine was fine. Leak down fine. Pulled it apart for a refresh 3 years later and everything was in spec.