B2782B Snowblower Noise

[NEPA Guy]

Bought the B3350 and the B2782B for the upcoming season. I had one friend who owns 3 tractors take a look at the blower and he said it doesn't sound right, maybe the chain was too tight.

I checked the gear box and lubed everything I could. I'm new to tractors and not very experienced when it comes to mechanics. I haven't taken it apart and rebuilt it yet.

I've done as much searching as I could without truly finding out what is and isn't normal. I've sent an email to the manufacturer to get their answer, if they decide to respond.

What gets me is that I had this loud sound stop momentarily and the chain was flowing smoothly, then it went back to the grinding sound you hear in the video.

I am waiting to hear back from the dealer but it will take another week or two before I get a visit. I hope to find a person with a a working B2782B that can upload a video documenting the sound, or offer any helpful advice.

Please visit this link to a youtube page I just created for the sole purpose of sharing this issue.

Thank you for your time

https://youtu.be/7-dCmiC_u_0

 

[Humblebub]

I am the least expert person you will hear from here but that sure does not sound right. Almost sounds like a chain skipping over cogs on gear.

 

[wv bc owner]

Sounds to me like you have a dry bearing or the auger or fan has a bent shaft or a blade is rubbing the housing

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[NEPA Guy]

Sounds to me like you have a dry bearing or the auger or fan has a bent shaft or a blade is rubbing the housing

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I checked the shaft and housing, looks OK.

I read elsewhere in another forum that other people have complained about noise and one guy said it's most likely a bearing.

I searched for videos about the B2782B and found a bunch, but it's either hard to tell, or there's theme music.

 

[78Vette]

Sure don't sound good at all. I wouldn't run it till it's fixed anymore.......

Not a tech here, but here is what I'd do.
Disconnect the drive-shaft and rotate it, or the Auger by hand while the chain is exposed to hopefully see where the friction is coming from. Also check the gear housing for proper fluid level.
The blower on my GR2120 required chain lube after every 4 hours, so, check the chain as well.

 

[NEPA Guy]

Sure don't sound good at all. I wouldn't run it till it's fixed anymore.......

Not a tech here, but here is what I'd do.
Disconnect the drive-shaft and rotate it, or the Auger by hand while the chain is exposed to hopefully see where the friction is coming from. Also check the gear housing for proper fluid level.
The blower on my GR2120 required chain lube after every 4 hours, so, check the chain as well.

I checked the gear oil already, it's clean and full. I'll try what you suggested as soon as I get the time.

Also when I try to rotate the chute I have to push the stick hard to the right to make it turn to the right. The left press on the stick operates with little effort.

When I initially called the dealer to report the problem, at first i couldn't get the chute to turn with the same force when I apply it to the left.

He told me to push it all the way right to get it to go. So he knew the fix offhand. Is this by design? Seems odd.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I checked the gear oil already, it's clean and full. I'll try what you suggested as soon as I get the time.

Also when I try to rotate the chute I have to push the stick hard to the right to make it turn to the right. The left press on the stick operates with little effort.

When I initially called the dealer to report the problem, at first i couldn't get the chute to turn with the same force when I apply it to the left.

He told me to push it all the way right to get it to go. So he knew the fix offhand. Is this by design? Seems odd.

The valve for rotating the chute is the same valve that controls the bucket on the fel. It operates that way by design, when the fel is on if you move the joystick a little to the right it opens the port and allows gravity to dump the bucket. If you move the joystick hard right past the detent it does a power dump and quickly dumps the bucket and knocks lose any dirt sticking to the bucket. When the blower is on you have to move past the detent to rotate the chute as there is no gravity to help.

 

[NEPA Guy]

The valve for rotating the chute is the same valve that controls the bucket on the fel. It operates that way by design, when the fel is on if you move the joystick a little to the right it opens the port and allows gravity to dump the bucket. If you move the joystick hard right past the detent it does a power dump and quickly dumps the bucket and knocks lose any dirt sticking to the bucket. When the blower is on you have to move past the detent to rotate the chute as there is no gravity to help.

Interesting. Thank you for clearing that up.

 

[RCW]

Wow - something's wrong!

Sounds like a bearing or chain to me, too. But the high-pitched grind makes me think high-RPM side of the blower, like the PTO, chain drive, impellor or gearbox, not augers or auger bearings. I'm really just guessin', though!

Problem is any noise will resonate through the blower like a megaphone - makes it hard to localize.

Are PTO shaft covers/couplings free from rubbing on other parts?

Does the mid-shaft on front hitch turn free and quiet?

Any odd wear on chain drive gear, or chain? Are they square and plumb to each other, not binding the chain? Set a straight edge from one to the other to get an idea.


Like 'Vette said - pull it apart and turn it - you might be able to localize noise/vibration/grinding, etc. Also, run the PTO through the mid-PTO/front hitch with blower off to rule that out.

Best of luck - just throwing out some ideas!!

 

[Tire Biter]

How many speeds is your PTO? I know on some tractor/snowblower combinations, the instructions say to not use the high speed to drive the blower. My 50" blower made what I considered excessive mechanical noise, so over one summer, I changed every bearing, but the old ones seemed fine when I removed them. The blower still made the same noise after. The bucket acts like a big speaker, amplifying all the mechanical noise. I just put on my radio headphones and blow snow.

 

[NEPA Guy]

rcw and tire biter: thanks for your replies, I'm still familiarizing myself with the various parts of the tractor. I think I only have one speed for my pto's? I just engage it. I appreciate the suggestions, once I define just exactly what parts you're referring to, I'll try it out through process of elimination..lol just been busy as of late. I'm going to head over to the dealer today and try to push and get a mechanic out here. I will post an update as soon as I learn something valuable.

 

[RCW]

I don't know your model at all, but you probably have two different PTO speeds at your different PTO locations.

The rear is probably just 540rpm, and the mid-PTO is probably just 2,500rpm.

Best of luck!! Look forward to hearing how you make out.

 

[NEPA Guy]

I don't know your model at all, but you probably have two different PTO speeds at your different PTO locations.

The rear is probably just 540rpm, and the mid-PTO is probably just 2,500rpm.

Best of luck!! Look forward to hearing how you make out.

Thanks! It's a B3350, I found a more responsive dealer. On site mechanic scheduled for Friday. Will post results as soon as I know for sure.



'If you want something done right. Do it yourself.'

 

[RCW]

Thanks! It's a B3350.'

I did see the B3350 part, but was assuming the PTO configuration was the same as the BX series.

When I say I suspect the high-RPM side of the blower - what I'm thinking is you're running a drive-shaft from the mid-PTO to the blower's gearbox at almost the same speed as the mid-PTO RPM.

It's driven in this order:
PTO
mid-PTO/quick hitch
chain drive/pulleys
impellor
gearbox

Then, there is a RPM reduction laterally to the augers. (There might be a reduction at the chain drive too, but still fast enough to drive the impellor fast)

The way that almost "whistles," just makes me think high-RPM side - somewhere between gearbox and connection to tractor at the PTO stub.

My QH has 2 bearings, then the chain drive, then another 2 bearings in the blower.....

Sorry so rambling - just trying to explain my thinking and rationale.....


Wishing you the best!!

 

[NEPA Guy]

OK. So the verdict is in. A well trained mechanic from another kubota dealership came down and although he said he never had direct experience with the snowblower he agreed it sounded too loud, like a squealing sound. It turns out it was the chain deflection. It was "tight as ****", so he loosened it up and the sound went down by half. HALF. Loud yes, but no where near what it was before. What a difference. He also said what another forum user told me, that it would quiet down a bit more in time as it was new.

We went through the process of taking the shafts apart and testing all other components individually to make doubly sure (at my request.) Sprockets were aligned, ball bearings were greased well enough, nothing rubbing. everything performed like clockwork. Kubota makes a good tractor he said, looks like a fine machine.

Thank you all so much for lending your personal insight. I hope that any new users of the B2782B may find this experience helpful.

Cheers!

 

[RCW]

Beautiful!!

Glad you found a helpful dealer/mechanic.

Now let's hope you don't have to use it!!