B2782B Snow Blower shaft and sprocket.

[sbtills]

Use an angle grinder to grind the existing key flush with the shaft before you use the screws to push the hub off. Lubricate the threads of the screws so they don't seize on you.

I may have to resort to that. Thanks.

 

[sbtills]

I don’t see any key way in the hub. The key in the shaft looks like it is there just to fill the shaft key way.

Do you have the hub loose from the sprocket? Here is a link to an instruction manual for a similar product. I would not worry about getting the key out now and see if the hub will just slide off.

Browning Mounting Instructions for Split Taper

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Is there some room for the sprocket to move back towards the snow blower?

The key is there and raised enough to be in the way. Yes, the sprocket has about a 1/4 inch of movement between pushed all the way back and abutting the key. Thank you for the link.

 

[sbtills]

Run the bolts in tight then smack the sprocket a couple times and it should break the bond with the hub.

The sprocket will move.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, 'move', as in AWAY( back) from the bushing ?
If so, great ! it's just the bushing 'friction' stuck on the shaft.
You might be able to use a 'puller' to get bushing off, even a chain securely bolted to it, a 'slap' puller
but if the bushing key isn't 100%
I don't see ANY 'keyway' in that bushing, especially compared to the posted picture in #9 (?) or the one in my hand. Maybe it's a 'trick of the lighting' but keyways are usually 1/8- 3/16 'tall'.

 

[Dustball]

If you wanted to buy a replacement bushing, I believe this should fit. Verify the measurements before purchasing.

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It doesn't look like Kubota sells the bushing by itself, only the combo with the sprocket.

 

[sbtills]

If you wanted to buy a replacement bushing, I believe this should fit. Verify the measurements before purchasing.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

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It doesn't look like Kubota sells the bushing by itself, only the combo with the sprocket.

Yes, that resembles what I have. Thanks. I already have the replacement kit coming tomorrow which includes the bushing (hub). The most difficult aspect of the repair so far is getting that key out of the keyway. I am still working on that.

 

[sbtills]

hmm, 'move', as in AWAY( back) from the bushing ?
If so, great ! it's just the bushing 'friction' stuck on the shaft.
You might be able to use a 'puller' to get bushing off, even a chain securely bolted to it, a 'slap' puller
but if the bushing key isn't 100%
I don't see ANY 'keyway' in that bushing, especially compared to the posted picture in #9 (?) or the one in my hand. Maybe it's a 'trick of the lighting' but keyways are usually 1/8- 3/16 'tall'.

The keyway is in the shaft, which is keeping me from pulling the bushing off.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, all I have is that picture you posted in #5 and it clearly shows the key is NOT in the keyway of the bushing. I'm betting if you took a picture of the 'bottom' side, you'll see a notch ( keyway) in the bushing.
Also keys are normally 50/50 into both keyways(shaft and sprocke/gear), yet yours is just a bit out of the shaft's keyway.
if you could get your head 'around back', you should see the keyway of the sprocket, that's supposed to be over the shaft keyway.

My gut's telling me, wrong key and somehow sprocket rotated relative to the shaft (remember key is supposed to 'lock' both parts in 'sync'. 2 mor epictures would be nice...

Grab a grinder and remove the visible key. It's OK to ,oopsy, grind a bit off that shaft as it's not being used in that area. If it has rotated as I suspect, YES, it will be a 'bear' to remove. 'slap hammer' to shock it will work,BTDT.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need to rotate the hub or the shaft to make the key line up with the keyway.
Then you are still very likely going to need to use a puller to get the hub off.

If you can get a 2 or three jaw puller to grab behind the hub that's great if not use a steering wheel puller to get it off.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901271210&campaignid=21901271210&utm_content=173202023911&adsetid=173202023911&product=62620&store=377&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAs5i8BhDmARIsAGE4xHyMjNxlRDUrixGnVVZI2U_L2Ud1R_FioQMj9gDJ-k44t2YxkA0WXtMaAlEKEALw_wcB

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-puller-set-3-piece-63953.html

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeah it'll be a bear', (saw the newer pictures...), it did rotate.
even when you line them up, there'll be enough 'junk' to make life miserable.
sine the key is 'history' anyway, grind it down flush with shaft. Those bushings are presise made so even A 1/2 thou will 'bind' it up.

2-3 more posts and we'll see a 'tada' picture !!

 

[Russell King]

The keyway is in the shaft, which is keeping me from pulling the bushing off.

Now I do see the hub key way (thanks to @North Idaho Wolfman).

I don’t think you will be able to get the key completely out of the shaft key way. I think the best thing to do is to just carefully grind it down flush with the shaft and then try to pull the hub off.

If you have room and a good right angle grinder I think you just cut the sprocket off and get it out of the way. Then you can cut the hub off by cutting a groove lengthwise above the keyway of the hub. You can try using a Dremel but that might take a long time. You might also cut the hub face where the hub is already split in two places. You may have to use a chisel to make your cuts enlarge the inner diameter (force the split apart).

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I've used the real thin cutoff wheels to grind off keys on shafts like that. YES, you need a delicate touch, start from the end and work towards the hub.Stay calm, move slowly,light pressure and you'll remove the mangled mess above the shaft
If you're not comfortable doing that, remove those bolts, get a clean newish flat bastard file and file the key down to the shaft.

 

[Dustball]

I personally wouldn't have an issue with the grinder touching the shaft here and there during grinding of the exposed machine key as that's not where the critical clamping surface area is.

I just thought of something. When you're threading in the screws that will be performing the pushing, use graded bolts (grade 5 or 8) along with a bit of oil. You don't want the threads to strip or the bolts to break.

I should open up my B2782B blower to see what sprocket/hub configuration I have.

 

[sbtills]

I've used the real thin cutoff wheels to grind off keys on shafts like that. YES, you need a delicate touch, start from the end and work towards the hub.Stay calm, move slowly,light pressure and you'll remove the mangled mess above the shaft
If you're not comfortable doing that, remove those bolts, get a clean newish flat bastard file and file the key down to the shaft.

Well, I finally realized that key was not coming out so I ground it down flush to the shaft. I wonder if there were two key ways on my shaft for just such an issue? That allowed me finally to move ahead with the replacement. The replacement parts were much "beefier" including the 3 (versus 2) bolts used to tighten the hub. The new components also had a slot on BOTH the sprocket and bushing and the two were fit together by by a built in key and keyway. I wouldn't want to be the next one to pull this new bushing off because it went on tight! Photos below.

I got everything back to together and just came in from a very enjoyable run down my half-mile driveway which had accumulated 10 inches of snow during my down-time, and the blower performed flawlessly.

I really appreciate all who chimed in on this. It would have taken me two weeks and probably over $500 to have the dealer do this, and all of the posts were helpful in making me decide to tackle it on my own.

Thanks all!

 

[Russell King]

Glad you got it fixed!

It looks like the clearance holes in the second picture are elongated. That is the old hub I think.
That might come from engagement at high RPMS?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Nice... as you found out they are PRECISION machined pieces, I hope you slathered on some neverseize or similar, it may help the next owner (grand kids ?? ) when THEY have to replace it......
Print out a couple pictures, write down the part numbers, file in the drawer that has spare 'keys', for future reference.

BTW, the original doesn't seem to have much key 'depth' in the bushing. Ones I've seen have at least 1/8" 'height' of key in the slot. maybe just a 'trick of the camera' though....

SUCCESS !!!!!