B2710 with curis cab heat its cold outside

[Ikc1990]

Ok so we finally used our freinds heated garage today. Installed a jeggs heater inside 20000 btu and was told by jeggs to tap in bottem and top radiator hose. So I did. I ran for an hr and a half in garage and did get some warm air but nothing hot like the fluid is, its like it's not flowing enough hot fluid out of tee through heater is there a circulator kinda pump that I should in stall too? Yes I have winter fronts on too but this kubota motor just dosnt seam to get warm even when working esp when it is -22 with 35 mph wind. Brr. But I figured I garage it shall blow hot hot air..

 

[bird dogger]

I installed a jegs heater on my B2650 homemade cab. But I removed the water pump bypass hose and connected the two heater hoses where the bypass hose used to be. The heater puts out plenty of heat
installed that way. You might try that???

 

[DustyRusty]

That is exactly how I plumbed mine back in 2004 and never had a heating problem.

 

[DaveFromMi]

If the heater circuit is in parallel with the radiator (not including thermostat), you will get no heat until thermostat opens and low heat (low core flow) after it opens. Tapping off the engine bypass line is the better option. Don't use a coolant shutoff valve in the bypass line; would be bad news for the engine.
There are lots of 12V automotive heater coolant pumps out there if that is what is needed.

bosch heater coolant pump - Google Search

 

[Ikc1990]

I installed a jegs heater on my B2650 homemade cab. But I removed the water pump bypass hose and connected the two heater hoses where the bypass hose used to be. The heater puts out plenty of heat
installed that way. You might try that???

Hey bird dogger could you send me a pic of yours to see what you mean? I'll try to remember to get a pic of how mine is routed tomorrow evening. I hate to buy a aux pump but if that's what it takes toget heat I will lol. But I am just confused why it takes so long to get the thermostat to open? It seams like it's a cold blooded engine lol

 

[bird dogger]

Hey bird dogger could you send me a pic of yours to see what you mean? I'll try to remember to get a pic of how mine is routed tomorrow evening. I hate to buy a aux pump but if that's what it takes toget heat I will lol. But I am just confused why it takes so long to get the thermostat to open? It seams like it's a cold blooded engine lol

I'd be happy to round some up for you!

 

[bird dogger]

Hey bird dogger could you send me a pic of yours to see what you mean? I'll try to remember to get a pic of how mine is routed tomorrow evening. I hate to buy a aux pump but if that's what it takes toget heat I will lol. But I am just confused why it takes so long to get the thermostat to open? It seams like it's a cold blooded engine lol

I found these pics in some files that should show you how my hookups were made. They aren't very explicit, but I can take some better ones for you if you'd like.

In the pics you'll see two hoses installed. The small, short and curved "water pump bypass" hose has been removed from those two fittings. I believe those fittings were just 3/8" barb fittings. One on the water pump housing and the other on the thermostat housing. Once that bypass hose was removed it was replaced with the two hoses shown that run down and out over to the cab heater.

My Jegs heater hose fittings were made for 5/8" hose. I ran short stubs of 5/8" heater hose to the outside of my cab and then with barb reducers continued on with the 3/8" hose. The smaller hose was much easier to rout and hookup to the bypass location. And there's been plenty of flow to supply the heater.

When I install the cab each fall: I drain some coolant off the radiator via the drain plug. Remove the bypass hose. Before I hook up the heater hoses, I'll fill the heater core up with coolant by using a small funnel in one hose. Holding both ends up higher than the heater while filling until the coolant shows in the open hose. It takes very little coolant to fill the heater core. Plug one hose end while quickly attaching the other. Remove the plug and attach the final hose. Only a few drops get spilled. It maybe isn't necessary to do it that way but it seems to work.

Hope these pics help, On your tractor, look for a short curved hose on top of your water pump that's only 5" long +/-. That'd be your bypass hose.

Let me know if I can take better pics for you.

David

 

[bird dogger]

But I am just confused why it takes so long to get the thermostat to open? It seams like it's a cold blooded engine lol

I'm surprised that the way you have your tractor's grill work blocked off that your engine isn't developing more heat. It must still be sucking in cold air from somewhere.....directly underneath perhaps? I'm not familiar with your tractor but I know my B2650 doesn't put out any wasted heat!! You might be right in that your thermostat is stuck open??

 

[leveraddict]

Does your heater core have a dedicated "IN" and "OUT" if it does it would probably be marked so. Those that do if hooked up incorrectly won't put out good heat.

Did you try removing the radiator cap while warming up and squeezing the heater hoses to remove any air bubbles? Basically priming the core.

A heater core actually cools down an engine. Unlike a car the tractor at idle in cold temps rarely gets up to operating temps.

I have a Jeggs 28000 BTU heater core in mine and I have to work/run the tractor at operating RPM's to get good heat. There is no just letting it idol in the garage with the heater on like a car and its going to be toasty warm in there.

Lastly I did not tap into the water pump like others did. The nipple on the BX23S water pump has a very tiny diameter and was not as easy to get to like on other models. I didnt think I would get enough flow from the water pump for heat so I tapped into the lower rad hose and top of the thermostat housing.

I see you covered the grill but if you can cover the face of the radiator some how to reduce the air flow it will get hotter faster. On my BX theres a screen in front of the rad where I can slip a piece of corrugated plastic in there to reduce the flow!

All I can say is run it like your working it hard and see if the heat improves. Good luck!

 

[DustyRusty]

I used the engine bypass hose for my heater in my BX22, and when I sold it, it was still working perfectly. The only thing that I found difficult was finding an adapter from 3/8" to 1/2" and 3/8" to 5/8" heater hose. At the time NAPA had both metal and plastic, and you cut off the end to the step that you needed. That heater would roast you on a day when it was so cold, it could freeze the *** off of a witch. There is more than one way to skin a cat (non politically correct saying from decades ago).

 

[Ikc1990]

I think I know what it talking about. I'll look when I get home tonight and take some pics. I am hoping to get it working good this week as I have tires being filled Thursday then can put chains on got big storm possible end of week and need to plow my road to sugarhouse this week to start working there end of month weather permitting I have some vaca time and need to get tapped. And actually rather plow with tractor than pick up. Lol

 

[Ikc1990]

Alright I may have put in wrong but this was per jeggs installation I'm confused but gonna figure this out one way or another lol but still cold.

 

[ruger1980]

The hose to the lower radiator hose will be fine. The hose to the top hose should be moved to the thermostat housing.
I would remove the plug shown as item 030 below and find a nipple that will fit into the opening.

 

[Ikc1990]

The hose to the lower radiator hose will be fine. The hose to the top hose should be moved to the thermostat housing.
I would remove the plug shown as item 030 below and find a nipple that will fit into the opening.

View attachment 74286

Great thanks for the help everyone I'm going to try that, and replace thermostat at same time to be safe, and then see where to next. Hoping to get it fixed looks like some seat time with storm coming In and a foot of snow or more, wind blowing like crazy tonight.

 

[bird dogger]

I just finished moving some snow with the rear blower and thought I'd post some info and pics from today regarding the same:

Outside temp was +10° F today.
All three of my winterfront covers were on (front + two sides)
Tractor's temp gauge held steady at 4 bars displayed through the hour's snow blowing.
I tywrapped an accurate thermometer inside the cab at head height on the side framework.
(I didn't expect the cabin heat to exceed the range, but it's the only thermometer i could find.)

Here's some pics of the setup, tractor's display and thermometer showing cabin's inside temp.
Select for expanded view:


As you can see, it was way too warm in the cab for comfort with the heater's blower speed on high. But this shows that even 3/8" heater hose hooked up to the water pump bypass circuit can supply sufficient coolant and heat to the cab heater. And the whole cab was at that temperature as you can see the heat probe was well away from the blower output and even located next to the window. The thermometer reads +90° F. I didn't have the heat gun to see what the heater core temp was. But from before, at 4 bars displayed on the gauge it was in that 170° F range. The engine oil temp would've been somewhere in the 190°/195°F range. The gauge never displayed 5 bars.

Normally, I'd either turn the heater off when comfortable, or cycle it to maintain a comfortable temp. Or adjust the covers with the cab heater going if the coolant temp started to rise above 4 to 5 bars displayed. That doesn't happen suddenly so there's plenty of time for adjustments.

The homemade cab that I install for winter is also quite roomy. the heater keeps it as toasty as you'd like. No snow sticking to the windows. It melts and runs straight down so no wipers needed.

Plenty of room for the jacket and gloves stuffed behind the seat!!

 

[Ikc1990]

I just finished moving some snow with the rear blower and thought I'd post some info and pics from today regarding the same:

Outside temp was +10° F today.
All three of my winterfront covers were on (front + two sides)
Tractor's temp gauge held steady at 4 bars displayed through the hour's snow blowing.
I tywrapped an accurate thermometer inside the cab at head height on the side framework.
(I didn't expect the cabin heat to exceed the range, but it's the only thermometer i could find.)

Here's some pics of the setup, tractor's display and thermometer showing cabin's inside temp.
Select for expanded view:
View attachment 74526 View attachment 74525 View attachment 74527

As you can see, it was way too warm in the cab for comfort with the heater's blower speed on high. But this shows that even 3/8" heater hose hooked up to the water pump bypass circuit can supply sufficient coolant and heat to the cab heater. And the whole cab was at that temperature as you can see the heat probe was well away from the blower output and even located next to the window. The thermometer reads +90° F. I didn't have the heat gun to see what the heater core temp was. But from before, at 4 bars displayed on the gauge it was in that 170° F range. The engine oil temp would've been somewhere in the 190°/195°F range. The gauge never displayed 5 bars.

Normally, I'd either turn the heater off when comfortable, or cycle it to maintain a comfortable temp. Or adjust the covers with the cab heater going if the coolant temp started to rise above 4 to 5 bars displayed. That doesn't happen suddenly so there's plenty of time for adjustments.

The homemade cab that I install for winter is also quite roomy. the heater keeps it as toasty as you'd like. No snow sticking to the windows. It melts and runs straight down so no wipers needed.
View attachment 74528
Plenty of room for the jacket and gloves stuffed behind the seat!!

Nice so I finally got time today and I fixed heat I removed the t in top radiator hose, found the plug in thermostat housing removed it and hooked my inlet hose to heater to the spot I removed plug and had heat almost instantly pushed snowbanks back for about 3 hrs this afternoon with wind chills about -5 in a sleeveless shirt. Also got a hydrolic leak fixed and chains in rear tires.

 

[Ikc1990]

Thanks everyone for the help it is greatly appreciated

 

[bird dogger]

Thanks everyone for the help it is greatly appreciated

If you'd ever like some winter front covers that are a little easier to put on/take off than your tywrapped ones we could work something up. Maybe for the next winter season? Hard to say if there'd be any other B2710 owners that might also look for some.....but you never know. It sure is nice moving snow in shirt sleeves in a warm cab, isn't it? Glad you got your heater tuned and working great!!

 

[Ikc1990]

Actually these are old bus grill covers I sewed and made fit with velcro, but I zip tied to grill for transport but shouldn't have to so they are thick. How do urs attach? Snaps? If so I'd look at buying a set from u that would be even better wut made due with what I had here

 

[bird dogger]

Actually these are old bus grill covers I sewed and made fit with velcro, but I zip tied to grill for transport but shouldn't have to so they are thick. How do urs attach? Snaps? If so I'd look at buying a set from u that would be even better wut made due with what I had here

There's nothing wrong with covers that do the job!! I used old carpet remnants over the grill of my old JD750 years ago. I just couldn't do that to the nice new Kubota. LOL! so I came up with these. They're held in place with strong magnets sewn within the hem along the outer edges. No tools or alterations to the tractor to apply or remove. Here's a link to the B2601 or '01 series to better show what they look like:
B '01 series Winter Front Covers
David