B2710 starting issue

[Ikc1990]

So my b2710 is new to my earlier this fall. It is parked in an unheated hay barn. I am from northern vt. So this am I plugged my kubota in. Went to work knowing I needed to move tractor tonight for chores. Its around 8 deg out side. I unplugged tractor got in cab and it trys to turn over but then clicks very fast like the battery has juice but no go. Then I decided mabey it is a bit weak so put the jumper cables on and got nothing more. Starter? Solenoid? I would think if solenoid I won't get the click right? I tried the ole tapp of a hammer too and same thing. Help?

 

[whitetiger]

So my b2710 is new to my earlier this fall. It is parked in an unheated hay barn. I am from northern vt. So this am I plugged my kubota in. Went to work knowing I needed to move tractor tonight for chores. Its around 8 deg out side. I unplugged tractor got in cab and it trys to turn over but then clicks very fast like the battery has juice but no go. Then I decided mabey it is a bit weak so put the jumper cables on and got nothing more. Starter? Solenoid? I would think if solenoid I won't get the click right? I tried the ole tapp of a hammer too and same thing. Help?

Clean your battery cable ends and clean the ground cable where it bolts to the frame.

 

[Ikc1990]

Clean your battery cable ends and clean the ground cable where it bolts to the frame.

Will try that in the morning. Thanks

 

[Roadworthy]

After cleaning terminal ends be sure connectors are TIGHT.

 

[Ikc1990]

So this am I went out to get the kubota b2710 going first took terminals off cleaned, and took ground off frame cleaned that up and put back then cleaned up other end of power wire, tested battery and it had juice but not what I thought was great. So couple hundred bucks later I said screw it put new battery and both ground and power wires on it. Fires right up and purrs like a kitty. The ground wire probably was ok but a touch short. Looks like last owner cut and replaced ends. The power wire didn't look great at all and battery was like 3 yrs old. But I recently got the tractor and think it sat quite a bit so may be battery problem and think was used mostly for snow removal could be the wires worst enemy. So I want this to last me a while I getting one issue at a time taken care of. Next new oil and filter mabey tomarrow.

 

[Russell King]

If you don’t use it a lot I suggest that you get a battery maintainer and use it.

Good to hear you have solved the problem and can move on to the next improvement

 

[Ikc1990]

I use it about 4 to 7 days a week but the previous owners put like 40 hrs on it in 2 years

 

[Old_Paint]

If the lugs/clamps on the battery cables have been replaced with crimped connectors (but perhaps not a proper crimper), you'll probably want to invest in some OE cables and replace them. You have no idea how little resistance it takes to stop a starter. I'd venture to guess that the PO didn't put any protective grease or tin the wire before crimping a new lug on. The exposed copper will corrode again (especially if all the prior corrosion wasn't completely removed) and leave you sitting out in the middle of a field somewhere with a good hot battery but a no-start condition. I've had a battery cable fail inside the molded lead clamp for the positive (+) post on a '92 F-150. Battery was hot, solenoid worked just fine, but no start. Took a minute to figure that one out, but just happened to be looking in the right place and see a tiny bit of smoke when I had someone else try to start it for me while I was diagnosing. Silly me, I already replaced a battery, a starter and starter relay.

 

[Ikc1990]

If the lugs/clamps on the battery cables have been replaced with crimped connectors (but perhaps not a proper crimper), you'll probably want to invest in some OE cables and replace them. You have no idea how little resistance it takes to stop a starter. I'd venture to guess that the PO didn't put any protective grease or tin the wire before crimping a new lug on. The exposed copper will corrode again (especially if all the prior corrosion wasn't completely removed) and leave you sitting out in the middle of a field somewhere with a good hot battery but a no-start condition. I've had a battery cable fail inside the molded lead clamp for the positive (+) post on a '92 F-150. Battery was hot, solenoid worked just fine, but no start. Took a minute to figure that one out, but just happened to be looking in the right place and see a tiny bit of smoke when I had someone else try to start it for me while I was diagnosing. Silly me, I already replaced a battery, a starter and starter relay.

Yes that may have been part of the issue I changed the cables with pre crimped ends from a factory. Bought at auto parts store.

 

[Old_Paint]

Yes that may have been part of the issue I changed the cables with pre crimped ends from a factory. Bought at auto parts store.

Smart move. Without proper crimpers, replacement lugs are typically not going to help. Crimpers are expensive, extremely so. Without the right crimper for the size of the lug barrel, you will not get a proper compression and it simply will not last. I've dealt with more than one bad connection in 40 years of industrial electrical service work. None of them was ever pretty when it failed.