B2710 leaking at fuel injection pump

[Lineituplawncare]

Hi everyone great to find the site! I’ve recently picked up a b2710 but the only catch so far is the fuel injection pump leaks. It’s not an insane amount but while working it’ll make little puddles under it. It seems to run and drive fine. Anyways I can’t find any information on this 1.3l 4 cylinder only the 3 cylinder pumps. Are they the same and I need a new o-ring/ washer for the lines ? Also what’s the bleeding procedure if I do decide to tackle the job. I’m mechanically inclined I just have never worked on a little diesel tractor before I know how easy it is to do more harm than good not knowing what you’re doing. The dealer said he’d have to send the pump out to get it fixed but it has to be an oring etc because it’s coming from the top/ the lines not like the injection pump itself is leaking. I haven’t tried to tighten them yet but in my personal experience it’s never just that easy.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If the pump is leaking at the delivery valve holders (red line on the print) it will need to sent to be rebuilt, it is NOT a DYI service job.
If it's leaking at the line connections (green) then there is NO O-rings or added seals of any kind.
There is just flare fittings on the line to delivery valve holders.
DO NOT remove the delivery valve holders and the security screws.

Hold the delivery valves from turning and loosen the lines, do not bend the lines, just lift slightly.
Clean the connection and add a little oil to the threads of the delivery valve holder and tighten the injection line.
If you do it like that you should not have to bleed anything.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

If the pump is leaking at the delivery valve holders (red line on the print) it will need to sent to be rebuilt, it is NOT a DYI service job.
If it's leaking at the line connections (green) then there is NO O-rings or added seals of any kind.
There is just flare fittings on the line to delivery valve holders.
DO NOT remove the delivery valve holders and the security screws.

Hold the delivery valves from turning and loosen the lines, do not bend the lines, just lift slightly.
Clean the connection and add a little oil to the threads of the delivery valve holder and tighten the injection line.
If you do it like that you should not have to bleed anything.

View attachment 147180

Hi thanks for the reply, since I posted this I’ve talked to the dealer and they sent me the number of the place that rebuilds them for them. I called them and the guy was super nice. I told him it was leaking at the hold down in been the front line and 2nd line. He said a rebuild is about $400-600. I told him I’ve seen ppl just take the lines and pump off and replace just the orings and it stops leaking. He said that is what he did on his own tractor and worked and same with the actual mechanic at the dealer they just said it’d be an hour of work but no warranty just because they aren’t going through the whole pump. My thought tho is if the pumps fine and it’s just a 20 yr old dry rotted oring why do I have to rebuild the whole pump ? I’ve talked to a few ppl and they are 90% sure the oring will fix it but almost nobody wants to do just that they want to rebuild the whole pump. I’m not trying to be cheap but not also trying to give someone $600 for an hour of labor and $10 of orings. Here’s the parts breakdown as far as I’m concerned it looks pretty straightforward. Ps I’ll probably just pay to get rebuilt but deciding between that or taking the chance and paying the $90 in shop labor and $10 in o rings. Everything I’ve read also says it’s pretty easy to get on and off. Is there anything to watch for when removing it to take over to the shop?

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Hi thanks for the reply, since I posted this I’ve talked to the dealer and they sent me the number of the place that rebuilds them for them. I called them and the guy was super nice. I told him it was leaking at the hold down in been the front line and 2nd line. He said a rebuild is about $400-600. I told him I’ve seen ppl just take the lines and pump off and replace just the orings and it stops leaking. He said that is what he did on his own tractor and worked and same with the actual mechanic at the dealer they just said it’d be an hour of work but no warranty just because they aren’t going through the whole pump. My thought tho is if the pumps fine and it’s just a 20 yr old dry rotted oring why do I have to rebuild the whole pump ? I’ve talked to a few ppl and they are 90% sure the oring will fix it but almost nobody wants to do just that they want to rebuild the whole pump. I’m not trying to be cheap but not also trying to give someone $600 for an hour of labor and $10 of orings. Here’s the parts breakdown as far as I’m concerned it looks pretty straightforward. Ps I’ll probably just pay to get rebuilt but deciding between that or taking the chance and paying the $90 in shop labor and $10 in o rings. Everything I’ve read also says it’s pretty easy to get on and off. Is there anything to watch for when removing it to take over to the shop?

 

[Lineituplawncare]

If the pump is leaking at the delivery valve holders (red line on the print) it will need to sent to be rebuilt, it is NOT a DYI service job.
If it's leaking at the line connections (green) then there is NO O-rings or added seals of any kind.
There is just flare fittings on the line to delivery valve holders.
DO NOT remove the delivery valve holders and the security screws.

Hold the delivery valves from turning and loosen the lines, do not bend the lines, just lift slightly.
Clean the connection and add a little oil to the threads of the delivery valve holder and tighten the injection line.
If you do it like that you should not have to bleed anything.

View attachment 147180

Oh and also worth mentioning I got a better look today and it’s definitely coming for under the hold down plate inbetween the first and second line. When it’s running I can see it bubbling out just a tad.

 

[Russell King]

If you remove the pump there are shims between the block and the pump mounting face. You need to be kept track of ALL the shims and make sure they get put back on when replacing the pump.

I would not get into an injection pump but have it repaired by someone who has done the job before and has the tools to get it correct the first time.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

If you remove the pump there are shims between the block and the pump mounting face. You need to be kept track of ALL the shims and make sure they get put back on when replacing the pump.

I would not get into an injection pump but have it repaired by someone who has done the job before and has the tools to get it correct the first time.

The mechanic at the dealer had mentioned the shims. He said it pretty much just like u, and I asked if they were easy to lose or drop down into the motor or something? He said they’re not and it’s not possible to drop them down into the motor but you just have to make sure you have the same amount or else the pump may not work. so my plan is to take pump off soon, drop it off at the rebuild shop have them just do the oring and see. My thought is that if the o ring doesn’t fix it that what I’m out $90 and my time taking pump off? Then I’ll just have to take it off and get it rebuilt fr the second time correct ? Also I’m going to google it but do you have any pics of what these shims look like just to make sure I get them all etc?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Oh and also worth mentioning I got a better look today and it’s definitely coming for under the hold down plate inbetween the first and second line. When it’s running I can see it bubbling out just a tad.

It's not the delivery valve holder O-ring that is leaking, as that would be leaking above the hold down plate.
It's leaking on the 2 O-rings that are on the outside of the flange sleeves.
If you remove the Flange sleeves and do not keep them in the exact alignment that they are now (they rotate) , it will require a complete rebuild because it will change the timing curve when you remove them.

These O-rings

 

[Lineituplawncare]

It's not the delivery valve holder O-ring that is leaking, as that would be leaking above the hold down plate.
It's leaking on the 2 O-rings that are on the outside of the flange sleeves.
If you remove the Flange sleeves and do not keep them in the exact alignment that they are now (they rotate) , it will require a complete rebuild because it will change the timing curve when you remove them.

These O-rings

View attachment 147226

It's not the delivery valve holder O-ring that is leaking, as that would be leaking above the hold down plate.
It's leaking on the 2 O-rings that are on the outside of the flange sleeves.
If you remove the Flange sleeves and do not keep them in the exact alignment that they are now (they rotate) , it will require a complete rebuild because it will change the timing curve when you remove them.

These O-rings

View attachment 147226

thank you that was the answer I was looking for. Up to this point nobody could tell me why to send it out, only answer I got is “it’s hard” pretty much. I just got the tractor, the leak isn’t as bad as I thought it was most of what I was seeing was from a hydraulic line that blew right before the old owner traded it in. I ran it for about 30 mins today moving trailers around the yard etc and it only dripped 8-10 drops then a decent little puddle afterward on the floor of the garage. The tractor has 1090 hours on it other than the pump it seems to have been well taken care. Other than the obvious oil change etc are there any services I need to do/ get done like valve adjustment or anything? Maybe a transmission oil change? I’m going to use it for the few jobs I have that need to get done immediately and see if it has any other quarks then was going to take pump off send it off and try to fix anything else that needs fixing. The dealer only had the tractor about a day and I bought it due to it being perfect for my needs and not $30k. Also how do I tell if I have the 1” pins on the bucket?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

thank you that was the answer I was looking for. Up to this point nobody could tell me why to send it out, only answer I got is “it’s hard” pretty much. I just got the tractor, the leak isn’t as bad as I thought it was most of what I was seeing was from a hydraulic line that blew right before the old owner traded it in. I ran it for about 30 mins today moving trailers around the yard etc and it only dripped 8-10 drops then a decent little puddle afterward on the floor of the garage. The tractor has 1090 hours on it other than the pump it seems to have been well taken care. Other than the obvious oil change etc are there any services I need to do/ get done like valve adjustment or anything? Maybe a transmission oil change? I’m going to use it for the few jobs I have that need to get done immediately and see if it has any other quarks then was going to take pump off send it off and try to fix anything else that needs fixing. The dealer only had the tractor about a day and I bought it due to it being perfect for my needs and not $30k. Also how do I tell if I have the 1” pins on the bucket?

Hydraulic oil and filters, engine oil and filters, air cleaner, check coolant, grease all zerks, check/ change front axle fluid (hydraulic oil), fuel filter.

You would measure the pins.... Obvious right.

 

[Lineituplawncare]

Hydraulic oil and filters, engine oil and filters, air cleaner, check coolant, grease all zerks, check/ change front axle fluid (hydraulic oil), fuel filter.

You would measure the pins.... Obvious right.

Yessir, I just didn’t know if there was a dead giveaway in design difference. I guess on this model they had smaller ones on the earlier years then updated to a 1” and can only put the quick attach coupler on it if I have 1” pins. Thanks for all the help and sorry for the dumb questions.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yessir, I just didn’t know if there was a dead giveaway in design difference. I guess on this model they had smaller ones on the earlier years then updated to a 1” and can only put the quick attach coupler on it if I have 1” pins. Thanks for all the help and sorry for the dumb questions.

Not dumb questions at all.
Yea there is no "looks like" on that it's just a pure measurement thing.