B2650 snowblower - is there a shear pin in the driveline?

[oldryder]

1st time using B2650 blower with my B2410.

Heavy wet snow. Was doing fine, going slow until chute plugged with wet snow.

cleared the plug but it just immediately plugged up again (didn't shoot any snow.)

Wiggling impeller wiggles driveshaft (engine off) so maybe it's just got to be cleared much better.

However, I have seen mechanisms with shear pins that would rotate even with a sheared pin until loaded. Unfortunately I can't watch it and drive it at the same time.

Suggestions, anyone.

thx
mark in MN

 

[Dave_eng]

There will be three shear bolts.

One close to the fan as looking from the front of the blower, one for each half of the auger likely near the outer end of each auger.

If the augers are turning but the fan is not then its the fan shear bolt which has broken.

Dave

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Ditto what Dave said.

Go to your local Kubota dealer and buy a supply of shear bolts and nuts. One of the bolt styles has an intentional "weakening groove" cut in its shank such that it will shear before damage happens. They are not terribly expensive.

I bought 10 of each, split them between my three tractors and have only used two so far, both from hitting solid object hidden in the snow.

 

[200mph]

Why not unthread the shear pin to verify it is still one piece? Seems simple enough to do.

 

[oldryder]

thx for replies. Shear pins were intact so it must have been all the snow stuck inside the chute. I checked the driveshaft back to the PTO and everything looked fine and it all turned as one piece when I rotated it by hand.

I am melting out the snow now and will have another person watch the augers. I'll be back if it still doesn't work correctly.

I will order shear pin spares.

mark in MN

 

[thebicman]

Two seasons ago I unintentionally dug my blower into the soft gravel driveway. This completely stripped all the paint from the chute. I painted the inside with por15 and lined the top with ptfe. Two seasons later and looks like new and never had snow stick.

 

[DustyRusty]

With the snow blower engaged to the PTO, and the engine off, and the 2nd stage impeller free of snow, check to see if you can spin the send stage impeller. This is the one at the back of the snow blower. If you can, that means that you have broken the shear bolt that in in front of the impeller blades. Most likely, yours is like mine, and it has 2 steel plates that are held together with a single standard grade 3 bolt. I tried to see the auger set up in the PDF section of Messick's Tractor, however, that was the only one that came back with "picture missing".
While looking at the pictures, I did see that there is a shear bolt yoke at the back end of the driveshaft, closest to the tractor. I have never seen a shear bolt yoke on a driveshaft before, but it is something to look at if your auger isn't turning.
If your chute fills with snow, be very careful not to put your hand in there to clear the blockage. Sometimes, the secondary impeller is under tension, and when you clear the blockage, it will spin. If your hand is down the chute, then you run the risk of loosing fingers or the hand itself. Always use a plastic shovel that is designed for clearing the chute. Most snow blower sales stores carry them as replacements for damaged or missing ones. Today, most snow blowers have them installed at the factory.

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Two seasons ago I unintentionally dug my blower into the soft gravel driveway. This completely stripped all the paint from the chute. I painted the inside with por15 and lined the top with ptfe. Two seasons later and looks like new and never had snow stick.

What the heck is por15, and where do you get it?
Yeah, all four of my blowers need a little "slippery" inside the discharge chute, but I find blowing gravel does wonder to remove rust!

 

[DustyRusty]

POR15 is a heavy black paint that is used by some in the antique car hobby. POR stands for "Paint Over Rust". Personally, I don't use it nor do I ever recommend it to go over rust. If you have rust, you should remove all the rust scale, sand or blast the part, paint with a metal etching primer, and top coat. There are no short cuts in the restoration of an old car, unless you are fixing it up to sell to some unsuspecting person that doesn't know any better.
Back to your chute.. Clean the rust, and then spray it with vegetable oil, and keep the RPM's up high when blowing heavy wet snow. Periodically, you will have to use the snow shovel to clear the square chute. There are some plastics that you can line the chute with, however, how often do you have this problem of wet snow? For me, it isn't worth the effort, since I almost always snow blow at high RPM's.

 

[orangekuby]

I used POR15 on my deck after pressure washing, scrapping, and sanding most of the rust away. It's very good for its intended use, but it is by no means a cure all, and it's not exactly easy to apply. It's pretty darn tough once cured. You should also buy in sizes you'll use all at once, or have glass mason jars and wax paper ready to store the extras (put it in a jar, put wax paper between jar and lid, tighten as much as possible, then store it upside down).

 

[thebicman]

You can get a can of por at Canadian Tire. As already said pour what your not going to use into a glass mason jar. Por is very hygroscopic.