B2650 pricing and implement options

[Pisgahminifarm]

B2650 pricing and implement options (flail vs rotary)

Good morning,

New member here but been reading a lot on the forum recently. I have been back and forth between the b2650 and the L2501. I believe the B2650 is going to be the winner based on size, ergonomics and comfort features. I am not convinced I will ever have a mid mount mower though which is why I still think about the L2501.

I have few questions for everyone. First off I am really torn between a flail mower or a rotary cutter. We have a total of 5 acres and I would say 3.5 of it is pasture (formally a horse farm) 1 acre is the house barn and shed with manicured grass/ yard and the rest is wooded area. We do have a steep pasture (approximately .75 acres) across the drive that will need to be mowed occasionally. That said I am considering wheel spacers on the B2650 to widen out the stance.

Where what I would like to know
1. What is a good price on the B2650 with SSquick detach bucket FEL considering the LX is replacing the model and the state of the economy?
2. Fail or rotary cutter for mowing pastures and to help around the house? ( we have a riding mower and a self propelled walk behind which do fine for now)
3. What areother must have options and implements to consider initially? Thinkjng pallet forks would get used a lot.

Thanks in advance!

 

[SDT]

Re: B2650 pricing and implement options (flail vs rotary)

Good morning,

New member here but been reading a lot on the forum recently. I have been back and forth between the b2650 and the L2501. I believe the B2650 is going to be the winner based on size, ergonomics and comfort features. I am not convinced I will ever have a mid mount mower though which is why I still think about the L2501.

I have few questions for everyone. First off I am really torn between a flail mower or a rotary cutter. We have a total of 5 acres and I would say 3.5 of it is pasture (formally a horse farm) 1 acre is the house barn and shed with manicured grass/ yard and the rest is wooded area. We do have a steep pasture (approximately .75 acres) across the drive that will need to be mowed occasionally. That said I am considering wheel spacers on the B2650 to widen out the stance.

Where what I would like to know
1. What is a good price on the B2650 with SSquick detach bucket FEL considering the LX is replacing the model and the state of the economy?
2. Fail or rotary cutter for mowing pastures and to help around the house? ( we have a riding mower and a self propelled walk behind which do fine for now)
3. What areother must have options and implements to consider initially? Thinkjng pallet forks would get used a lot.

Thanks in advance!

Probably the best way to estimate "good price" is to use the "Build" tool on the Kubota website and subtract a few percent from the result. The percentage depends upon many variables but I would not expect one to do much better than 10%. Be certain to look at the "Financing" link to determine the current incentive(s) and factor in such.

I would not (yet) expect much additional discount due to the state of the economy and I would expect no additional discount due to the fact that the 2650 is being replaced by the 2610.

SDT

 

[19thSF]

I bought a slightly used B2650 (78 hours on the clock) and saved a good deal of money. My state charges sales tax (actually my state taxes everything), and I did not pay infreight or dealer set up charges. There seems to be a lot of used B2650's around so it is worth a look. Mine came with a 60" mid-mount mower which I took off. I would use it if I had a lot of flat acreage to mow, but I have slopes and gates to get through, and a small finished lawn, front and back (in the middle of 42 acres of woods). My thought is that if I want a small acreage mower I can buy one for cheap money. I am going to buy a flail mower in the next week or so. I can control growth on the trails, and some open areas with brush.

If you go to the Kubota web site you can't spec the B2650 with a MMM and wheel spacers. I would guess that the problem is the deck hitting the tires when fully raised. I didn't have that problem. the deck could be raised and even "locked up" with the MMM in place. The 1 1/2 Inch each side (3" inches total) that the factory wheel spacers give you doesn't seem like much, but when you are in the driver's seat it feels more stable. There are a lot of third party spacers available.

My tires are filled with beat juice, and I have a rear hitch/weight bracket combination unit so the loader seems pretty stable. If you have specific questions I will try to answer them.

One thing you will find out is that the bucket control lever is a problem. Functions ok, but when you look backwards over your right shoulder you have a tendency to hit the lever with your right leg, which moves the bucket. I am working on a fix for that. Using the control lockout works, but it is pain in the rump to engage and disengage it all the time.

 

[dirtydeed]

Wecome,

Not sure if this will help since I think prices vary by location availability. Attached is my quote from 11/17. Keep in mind that the quote includes the backhoe.

Regarding options. I'd suggest looking at a flail mower. I have a 53" unit with hammers and it does a nice job on grass and brush. If you're doing pasture grass, then maybe you'd want to go with the knives instead. Flail mowers are generally lighter (in weight) than rotary cutters and they seem to leave a cleaner looking cut. Since the flail mowers are lighter (and don't stick out nearly as far) you can mow without the loader attached, making them more maneuverable. Typically, they still won't out mow a dedicated mower (ZTR) for finish mowing.

I don't have wheel spacers on mine. But, If you had spacers, you may want to go with a 60" flail to cover your tracks. a 60" flail mower could really be pushing your HP limitation depending on what you were mowing. You could always take a smaller bite.

A set of forks is always a plus. Look for light duty forks somewhere around 42" or less. These tractors don't have the lift capacity for anything heavy duty. I can't lift anywhere near a half ton with mine. I have a set of forks with built in 2" receiver which comes in really handy when moving trailers around.

Other attachments will depend on what you need to accomplish. Box blades are quite handy as well. Maybe take a look at Everything Attachments (EA) for your 3 point needs. They are located in NC, so, you could potentially save on some shipping costs if you were to pick up equipment. They have a great website with lots of videos about their company and their equipment.

I'd also suggest getting the 60" loader bucket. Same material as 54", but will definitely haul a bit more material. Check into a tooth bar for the bucket as well. Piranha tooth bar by BXpanded would be my suggestion.

If you could provide a little more detail on what you're trying to accomplish with a new machine, there are plenty of folks here that can guide you.

Hope this helps.

 

[Oliver]

Two good tractors you are considering.

I ran an old beat up 5' medium duty rotary cutter with my B2650 a couple times and while it worked ok, and the B powered it well enough, it felt a bit like the tail was wagging the dog due to the weight and how big it was and far back it extends. As you know a rotary cutter does not give a very good cut, it looked somewhere in-between what a sickle bar and mower would do. After going back and forth over a new lighter duty RC or flail I finally decided on a Woodmaxx 60" flail with Y knives, I probably would have been happy with either but I really like the smaller size of the flail and how well it shreds up what it cuts. It only takes up maybe 6' x 3' under my carport.

I was experiencing some tipsiness on rough rutted ground that I just had timbered as well as on hilly places and considered spacers for the B2650. But after reevaluating my needs and uses I changed to an L2501 which is about the same height only a good bit wider track, like 5" IIRC. Plus I added 2" spacers to gain 4 more inches so now it's nice and stable and still stays within the 66" bucket width.

If you think you may ever want a grapple or front blade you should consider ordering your tractor with a 3rd function, even if the grapple comes later.

Tires? I've had both turf and industrial before (never filled with liquid) and went with R4 industrial on the L. Turf tires gave a little better ride, were easier on the lawn, gripped better on side hills on grass, and did better in snow. R4's are stiffer so a little better if you use a loader a lot and seem a bit more puncture resistant, although I've had flats on both types. (One of the reasons I don't choose to fill them with liquid). Were I buying new now I'd probably try the new R14's which seem to be somewhat in-between..

You are going to need weight on the rear to offset the loader which will save stressing the front axle and simply be safer, you don't want the back end to come up off the ground. My loader is always on and most of the time I counter it with a Titan ballast box filled with stone, it also carries a rake and shovel. The ballast box is narrow and compact so a lot easier to maneuver in woods or tight places than having my 72" rear blade back there. It's less than $400 delivered.

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

Thanks, everyone for the input.

SDT- I think you may be right regarding discounts on the B2650. From what I am hearing it could be late summer before the LX is available and it seems to be a B2650 for the most part. I am definitely looking into finance options. heck 0% is free money and why pay cash unless I am going to get a much better price (which doesn't seem to be the case)

19th SF Bat- Have considered used but like the 0% financing on a new unit. Flail mower seems like it could keep the fields maintained and also be used around the house without worrying about busting out windows or peppering cars. WOuld love to hear why you are going that route over a rotary mower.

Good info on the MMM and spacers. I heard they wouldn't work with a mmm but I think your experience proves otherwise. Not to mention I likely won't get a mmm unless I find a used one for super cheap. A zero-turn or riding mower can do everything I need and is much more maneuverable. I will be getting the 60" bucket. I don't have to fill it if the material is too much for the tractor but I like the ability to move more when I can.

Your comment on the bucket control lever is very interesting. I feel that the location (and the armrests) is one of the main reasons I like the B2650. It makes me understand the L2501 set up a bit better while be it a much simpler tractor.


dirtydeed- Great feedback on the Flail. I have been thinking it might be the better option since it doesn't stick out so far from the tractor and will be more maneuverable around the property. Dealers seem to want to push the Brush hog but I lean more towards a flail based on size and capability (not to mention safety). Forks are a good tool and can serve a purpose for moving brush and logs until I can justify the expense of a grapple (which I definitely want).
I absolutely think a box blade would be useful. I have a spoe below the back of the house I would like to level out for cornhole and a firepit and think the BB would be very handy for that task along with maintaining the gravel drive etc.



Oliver- Dang it! Why did you have to say you traded up to an L2501.... I feel that this is my biggest concern. I am buying what I hope is my lifetime tractor (or at least the next 20 years) and I keep going back and forth between these models and their positives and negatives. I want a grapple one day but think I would rather spend the money towards implements I will use now over the 3rd function valve. My mentality is that if/when I am ready for the grapple I can add the 3rd function then. Great info on the tires and weight. The current setup would be R4 but I would like more side grip on slope in case I get in that situation.

I guess the bottom line is I am still up in the air but I want the tractor NOW.

Thanks again for all the help and any additional info.

 

[Oliver]

Not really a "trade up" rather a lateral trade. My uses changed after I bought more property so I wanted the extra width and the larger motor (though same hp). The slightly heavier build and weight were beneficial as well and I was willing to give up some nice creature comforts and the mid PTO, for basically the same price. Given my use the L2501 extra stability was really important to me.
The B2650 is a little lighter which can be an advantage.

If you're not sure you want a grapple, or if you do it is in the distant future, don't spring for the 3rd function now. It is more of a convenience to have it done at purchase, it can be added later for not much additional cost. You could put the savings toward a set of pallet forks and with them might not ever need a grapple.

 

[PaulL]

Both B2650 and L2501 are great tractors. Similar in a lot of ways. I'd always get the L2501 unless one of the features of the B2650 was important to me:

- mid PTO for a mid mower or front snowblower
- cab
- lighter weight for mowing around the house
- some of the comfort features / general luxury-ness of it

I didn't hear you say you needed any of them.

The L2501 is a stronger machine, more stable, and the 25HP it makes are quite a bit larger horses than the B2650s 26 horses. I'd say the L2501 has Clydesdales. It's a much larger engine running very unstressed. There's more metal, more width, more hydraulic power. It'll last forever.

For my use I'd always get a B2650. For your use, I'd seriously look at the L.

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

Both B2650 and L2501 are great tractors. Similar in a lot of ways. I'd always get the L2501 unless one of the features of the B2650 was important to me:

- mid PTO for a mid mower or front snowblower
- cab
- lighter weight for mowing around the house
- some of the comfort features / general luxury-ness of it

I didn't hear you say you needed any of them.

The L2501 is a stronger machine, more stable, and the 25HP it makes are quite a bit larger horses than the B2650s 26 horses. I'd say the L2501 has Clydesdales. It's a much larger engine running very unstressed. There's more metal, more width, more hydraulic power. It'll last forever.

For my use I'd always get a B2650. For your use, I'd seriously look at the L.

Hey PaulL- Thanks for your thoughts. Actually what you are suggesting are the things that keep me stuck between these models. I do plan to use the tractor around the house for moving dirt, mulch, plants,etc and the weight ans size of the B seems good for this. Our wooded areas are not large but there are some trees to remove and drag out and the smaller size of the B should get into some of the tight spaces better as well.

The "luxury features are something I do really like. Specifically the armrest and the pedal setup. For some reason the brake pedals on the same side as the treadle pedal throws me off. I also want the wife to be comfortable with the machine and the L seems intimidating for her although I am sure she would get comfortable with it over time.

Stability is the one reason I keep coming back to the L. I would love to hear more about the stability of the B with spacers as I think they may be the answer to my stability concerns. The dealer has 2" coming in soon and I can have them installed before delivery. Or, do I see how she handles first knowing I can always add spacers down the road?

Thanks!

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

Not really a "trade up" rather a lateral trade. My uses changed after I bought more property so I wanted the extra width and the larger motor (though same hp). The slightly heavier build and weight were beneficial as well and I was willing to give up some nice creature comforts and the mid PTO, for basically the same price. Given my use the L2501 extra stability was really important to me.
The B2650 is a little lighter which can be an advantage.

If you're not sure you want a grapple, or if you do it is in the distant future, don't spring for the 3rd function now. It is more of a convenience to have it done at purchase, it can be added later for not much additional cost. You could put the savings toward a set of pallet forks and with them might not ever need a grapple.

Oliver- Can you elaborate on the trade up for stability? Did you have spacers on the B or just added 2" to the L when you "traded up"? We only have 5 acres and maneuverability is something I think is very beneficial. A lot of fence lines and corners as well as tight spaces in the woods and around the house and barn. This is also why I like the idea of the Flail.

Regarding a Flail mower, what are your thoughts on durability and maintenance? My pastures are not rocky and I don't have tons of actual "brush"to clear. I do like the idea of a cleaner cut around the barn and up by the house and I am willing to make 2 passes in the fields when the grass is super tall (like it is now).

Perhaps it should be said that the lady we bought the farm from had 2 horses and did EVERYTHING with a Cub Cadet riding lawnmower (which conveyed with the property). I have no idea how she manager 10 years with a riding mower. I tried to mow a small section of field up by the house and thought I was going to bounce right off the thing. (I will say that she left all manuals and maintenance records and the mower has been rebuilt 2-3 times over those 8-10 years)

Thanks for your help and any more thoughts on Flail mowers would be greatly appreciated. I think I am still bouncing between the B and the L which seems like a very common theme on OTT.

 

[dirtydeed]

here was a very recent thread on flail mowers and B2650. If you do a search, you'll find several additional threads on them as well. But, here was one from last week:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45065

lots of youtube videos as well. I believe tractor mike's youtube channel has a couple videos detailing pros vs cons on their use. There was one video I can recall where he demoed three mower types in the same field (rotary, finish, and flail). Maybe take a bit and look for that video.

edit:

here ya go..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrHQFAJz5zI

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SnhKsPKF-Q


One more thing. You can move lots of brush with a set of pallet forks. Grapples sure are nice, but I think that forks are more productive when moving (multiple) logs.

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

here was a very recent thread on flail mowers and B2650. If you do a search, you'll find several additional threads on them as well. But, here was one from last week:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45065

lots of youtube videos as well. I believe tractor mike's youtube channel has a couple videos detailing pros vs cons on their use. There was one video I can recall where he demoed three mower types in the same field (rotary, finish, and flail). Maybe take a bit and look for that video.

edit:

here ya go..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrHQFAJz5zI

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SnhKsPKF-Q


One more thing. You can move lots of brush with a set of pallet forks. Grapples sure are nice, but I think that forks are more productive when moving (multiple) logs.

Dirtydeed- Thank you for the links! very helpful. I have been in the Buying advice forums mostly and I guess I need to explore the rest of OTT.

I have seen Tractor mike vids along with others which is why I keep leaning towards a Flail. The dealers seem to not want to sell them though always recommending a rotary cutter instead. HP is something I think about. I am in the mountains so my pastures are not flat. Like the idea of the smaller Flail and would like to see if there is one with the side shift option cut a long fencelines etc

I think you are right about pallet forks and for my purposes and only a small amount of wooded area they are probably all I need. One of the first projects I have outside of mowing and mulch is replacing a lot of T-posts with wooden posts so I can run permanent fencing for dogs and goats. Borrowing the 3pt AUger from a buddy and thought the forks would be very helpful in moving posts and rolls of fencing.


BTW- the price quote in your first reply is very helpful!

 

[dirtydeed]

...anytime.

The flail that I got from BETSTCO does allow for 2 offset positions. So, if you get one similar, you can size it to the rear tire width, then offset it. That should get you about 6" beyond the rear tire.

Here's their website. https://betstco.com/flail-mower-fh-efg/

there are several other manufactures that have stuff that's better quality for sure. But the medium duty model I got fit my needs. And I think it ran me just over $1,100 delivered. It was a deal I couldn't pass up.

Here's a few pics. One pic shows clearly how it would be offset by moving the the 3 pt mounting bracket.

 

[Oliver]

Oliver- Can you elaborate on the trade up for stability? Did you have spacers on the B or just added 2" to the L when you "traded up"? We only have 5 acres and maneuverability is something I think is very beneficial. A lot of fence lines and corners as well as tight spaces in the woods and around the house and barn. This is also why I like the idea of the Flail.

Regarding a Flail mower, what are your thoughts on durability and maintenance? My pastures are not rocky and I don't have tons of actual "brush"to clear. I do like the idea of a cleaner cut around the barn and up by the house and I am willing to make 2 passes in the fields when the grass is super tall (like it is now).

Perhaps it should be said that the lady we bought the farm from had 2 horses and did EVERYTHING with a Cub Cadet riding lawnmower (which conveyed with the property). I have no idea how she manager 10 years with a riding mower. I tried to mow a small section of field up by the house and thought I was going to bounce right off the thing. (I will say that she left all manuals and maintenance records and the mower has been rebuilt 2-3 times over those 8-10 years)

Thanks for your help and any more thoughts on Flail mowers would be greatly appreciated. I think I am still bouncing between the B and the L which seems like a very common theme on OTT.

My B2650 was stock without spacers and 90% of the time for my use it was just fine, but it could be a little tippy in certain almost extreme situations. I also had a mid mount mower deck for it that I ended up not using. So I had no use for the mid PTO or the deck itself, adding spacers to the rear still didn't get it to as wide as an L_01. So I swapped for the L.
For your use (were it me) I would probably go with a B2650. I really liked the deluxe features and it was a strong 26 hp.

Regarding flails I don't have enough experience to offer advice regarding durability and maintenance. My hunch is an RC may require less maintenance and be a little more tolerant of abuse. But I love the compact size and mulching action a flail offers, so that's what I went with. Time will tell.

 

[19thSF]

First of all Beet not beat juice. That is what happens without spell check.

I have been mowing for years with a JD 318 and a 46" MMM. A 60" deck is just too big for my small yard with lots of trees and slopes to deal with. That why I am not using the MMM that came with the tractor. I bought the tractor to deal with the forest acreage. The bucket, quick attach forks, and a flail mower all help me to deal the riding trails, significant deadfall, that seems to be everywhere.

A note on forks. I decided to buy inexpensive forks from Titan with an advertised capacity of 2800 lbs. You only have about 1200 lbs of lifting capacity, so where is the benefit in buying 3000 lb capacity forks that weigh 300 lbs with the mount. You can only lift 1200 lbs (with the LA 534)less the attached implement's weight. I would suggest that you consider your pallet fork purchase carefully, but by all means buy them. They are very useful. I am not crazy about Titan Attachments (palletforks.com) but they do have low prices.

One note on the zero percent offer. You will have to buy insurance on the tractor from Kubota until it is paid off, and it isn't cheap. That was another expense I didn't care to have.

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

First of all Beet not beat juice. That is what happens without spell check.

I have been mowing for years with a JD 318 and a 46" MMM. A 60" deck is just too big for my small yard with lots of trees and slopes to deal with. That why I am not using the MMM that came with the tractor. I bought the tractor to deal with the forest acreage. The bucket, quick attach forks, and a flail mower all help me to deal the riding trails, significant deadfall, that seems to be everywhere.

A note on forks. I decided to buy inexpensive forks from Titan with an advertised capacity of 2800 lbs. You only have about 1200 lbs of lifting capacity, so where is the benefit in buying 3000 lb capacity forks that weigh 300 lbs with the mount. You can only lift 1200 lbs (with the LA 534)less the attached implement's weight. I would suggest that you consider your pallet fork purchase carefully, but by all means buy them. They are very useful. I am not crazy about Titan Attachments (palletforks.com) but they do have low prices.

One note on the zero percent offer. You will have to buy insurance on the tractor from Kubota until it is paid off, and it isn't cheap. That was another expense I didn't care to have.

19th SF Bat- I have to say that the more I think about it the more I realize that Pallet forks are almost required for the tasks I am wanting a tractor for. You are right though I do not need anything heavy-duty based on the lift capacity of the tractor.

I also tend to think I would not use the mmm much if I have one only because When I wanted to do "tractor" things it would be a nuisance.

I think I am narrowing down my needs and hope to wrap things up this week.

Thanks again!

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

good afternoon,

I would like to thank everyone for their input, advice, and links they have shared.

I believe i have narrowed things down a bit and here is what I am thinking.

As for the tractor itself, the B2650 seems to be the one for me. It is more comfortable and has the features my wife and I like for the size. While I believe the L2501 is a great machine I think it will be too big for us for 75% of what we are hoping to do with our new tractor. for the other 25%, we have quite a few great neighbors and friends with awesome machinery that are always willing to help. I think we will go with some wheel spacers to widen out the stance a bit for peace of mind and ballast appropriately when needed for heavy lifting etc.

Regarding the mower, I am still a bit up in the air but I believe we will go with the RC for now. The one I am looking at is a Hardee 4' with a slip clutch and it seems like it will last a lifetime. I love the concept of a Flail mower but I am concerned about the PTO HP when mowing the steep sections I do have and the overall cost initially.

Pallet forks seem to be a" must-have" the more I think about it and I will be working them into the deal for sure!

Thanks again for the help and hopefully I will be posting something shiny and Orange in the near future!!!!

 

[WKUalum]

Oliver - is that price still good? That seems really good to me for a 2650 TLB.

Wecome,

Not sure if this will help since I think prices vary by location availability. Attached is my quote from 11/17. Keep in mind that the quote includes the backhoe.

Regarding options. I'd suggest looking at a flail mower. I have a 53" unit with hammers and it does a nice job on grass and brush. If you're doing pasture grass, then maybe you'd want to go with the knives instead. Flail mowers are generally lighter (in weight) than rotary cutters and they seem to leave a cleaner looking cut. Since the flail mowers are lighter (and don't stick out nearly as far) you can mow without the loader attached, making them more maneuverable. Typically, they still won't out mow a dedicated mower (ZTR) for finish mowing.

I don't have wheel spacers on mine. But, If you had spacers, you may want to go with a 60" flail to cover your tracks. a 60" flail mower could really be pushing your HP limitation depending on what you were mowing. You could always take a smaller bite.

A set of forks is always a plus. Look for light duty forks somewhere around 42" or less. These tractors don't have the lift capacity for anything heavy duty. I can't lift anywhere near a half ton with mine. I have a set of forks with built in 2" receiver which comes in really handy when moving trailers around.

Other attachments will depend on what you need to accomplish. Box blades are quite handy as well. Maybe take a look at Everything Attachments (EA) for your 3 point needs. They are located in NC, so, you could potentially save on some shipping costs if you were to pick up equipment. They have a great website with lots of videos about their company and their equipment.

I'd also suggest getting the 60" loader bucket. Same material as 54", but will definitely haul a bit more material. Check into a tooth bar for the bucket as well. Piranha tooth bar by BXpanded would be my suggestion.

If you could provide a little more detail on what you're trying to accomplish with a new machine, there are plenty of folks here that can guide you.

Hope this helps.

 

[Pisgahminifarm]

SO I did a thing today. Trying to add a photo. any help appreciated

 

[miketrock]

Does this mean that you bought it ? Is that your new tractor ?