B2650 or L2501

[todd.ted]

Hi. I have been perusing the forum for a month or so after deciding that I need a tractor to help with a number of chores on my property that I purchased last year. I somewhat narrowed it down to the B2650 and the L2501 but recently learned of the B2601 which the dealer didn't mention when I first stopped in. I have used a B2400 on a neighbors property for a number of tasks: snow removal, rear blade to dig a ditch, box blade to fill in rain ruts on driveway, finish mower on the back yard, bucket for moving firewood, moving mulch and pulling some dead trees up, tiller for preparing an area for planting bushes (he has a lot of implements).

My primary uses for the tractor will be general moving of objects like wood for heating, snow removal on 100 yard driveway that has gentle slope towards the house, gravel driveway maintenance, mowing ~3 acre field once or twice a year, box blade and loader to add and flatten the ground in a fenced-in garden area so I can add fruit trees there (there are some bad ridges in there and it is hard to mow with anything but a push trimmer and that is impossible in some spots), getting to areas where I cannot take a 4 wheeler and trailer to get firewood on my property so I can make less trips, making a new trail through the woods to connect two existing trails, using the box blade to touch up the trails that I do have, using the box blade to get rid of the ruts over time in the field as it is pretty uneven and tore up from the farmer who has cut it over the years because he does it when he can not when the conditions are good (it was pretty wet last year so he almost got stuck on a low lying part and just didn't mow where he couldn't get to).

Currently I use an Arctic Cat 400 for snow removal and to tow a trailer where possible for gathering wood. It takes a long time to clean up the driveway after a sizable snow fall which isn't viable long term. Last year I hired the farmer to mow as he had been doing it for years and I didn't have time to look into anything else.

I was initially looking on Craigslist at used but the cost vs. the low finance rates that Kubota offers makes the used ones not viable as I would pay more in the long run and not necessarily get exactly what I need initially. I test drove a BX25 that was listed locally but the backhoe and footprint seemed to make it unsteady driving on their lawn in high gear and I felt the woods would have been too much for it. I have driven both the B2650 and the L2501 at the local Kubota dealer.

B2650 pros:
Higher ground clearance for woods work
It seemed to have a much better turn radius driving around at the dealer which would be great for snow removal
Less weight for woods work and mowing of field
The controls seem to be better set up

L2501 pros:
More power
I like the manual clutch but not sure it is better (for PTO vs electric on B series)
Familiar setup

I got a quote from the dealer on both of them and with the financing and discounts they are pretty close in price.

L2501 HST w/ filled turf tires, spacer & chains, block heater:
LA525, QA, 3rd Function
FDR1660
BB1566
SB1072

B2650 HST w/ filled turf tires, spacer & chains, block heater:
LA534A, QA, 3rd Function
RCK60
BB1560
SB1072

Some specific questions I have:

• Would I be better off getting a rear blade to assist with snow removal and trail/ditch work instead of the snow blade that only has one function? It seems like the bucket could do a lot of snow removal and with the rear blade I could always turn it around and push backwards if needed. This would also save on costs.
• From what I have read on here the mid mount mower (which I had them quote as it is the more expensive option) is best for manicured type lawns and the not mowing fields. So I should go for the rear mount mower if I get a 2650?
• For the box blade would I be better served to get as large of a unit as the machine can use, I sized down to just cover my footprint for the L2501 quote as I hadn't thought about needing the weight of the implement to do the work?
• A lot of posts say to buy the 5th tractor you need not the one you think you need and that and the cost/incentives have driven the look at the L2501. I am not sure the weight will be helpful in the woods tho.

Thanks.

 

[SMKK]

One big difference in the L to the B, is mid PTO connection - if you dont need you can save money on your tractor and maybe get more attachments. In my case I went with the B2650 because I wanted a front mount blower which requires the mid PTO. My driveway is about 1800 feet long and going backwards was not something I was willing to do. If I didn't need that I probably would have gone with an L.

Would I be better off getting a rear blade to assist with snow removal and trail/ditch work instead of the snow blade that only has one function? It seems like the bucket could do a lot of snow removal and with the rear blade I could always turn it around and push backwards if needed. This would also save on costs.

If your blower is on the back you wont be using a rear blade as well. I would go with a SSQA on your loader and then you could add a blade, box, or bucket as needed. A dedicated snow blade with the hydraulic function is nice if you have space to push snow to. The SSQA will let you swap the implement you need on the FEL easily.

From what I have read on here the mid mount mower (which I had them quote as it is the more expensive option) is best for manicured type lawns and the not mowing fields. So I should go for the rear mount mower if I get a 2650?

Mowing a field I would use either rotary cutter or a flail mower. Finish mowers, MMM or rear, follow the contours of the land either with contact wheels or the tractor body, so if your field is even a bit rough it will show.

 

[Missouribound]

The L2501 you mentioned is hydrostatic. It has a clutch but that's not necessarily for shifting. It's for engaging the PTO...so it's not really a manual clutch.
My B2320 has a clutch as well. I have never used it to shift, just to engage and dis-engage the pto. But if you want a machine with a manual transmission I am sure you can find one. But the hydrostatic makes things much easier, especially going from forward to reverse. I wouldn't do without it.

 

[Roadworthy]

I believe you can get the L2501 with either the HST (hydrostatic) transmission or a regular manual transmission. I paid the extra $1000 for the HST on my L2501. I have no regrets. You sacrifice one or two horsepower but it gives me more flexibility for speed when mowing and easier direction changes when using the loader.

 

[todd.ted]

One big difference in the L to the B, is mid PTO connection - if you dont need you can save money on your tractor and maybe get more attachments. In my case I went with the B2650 because I wanted a front mount blower which requires the mid PTO. My driveway is about 1800 feet long and going backwards was not something I was willing to do. If I didn't need that I probably would have gone with an L.

If your blower is on the back you wont be using a rear blade as well. I would go with a SSQA on your loader and then you could add a blade, box, or bucket as needed. A dedicated snow blade with the hydraulic function is nice if you have space to push snow to. The SSQA will let you swap the implement you need on the FEL easily.

Mowing a field I would use either rotary cutter or a flail mower. Finish mowers, MMM or rear, follow the contours of the land either with contact wheels or the tractor body, so if your field is even a bit rough it will show.

I was inquiring about front blade vs rear blade for snow removal. The front is easier on the neck but the rear is cheaper and has more uses. I don't think a blower is in my price range and with the gravel driveway it would take some finessing until the ground freezer to not shear a pin throwing stones.

 

[todd.ted]

The L2501 you mentioned is hydrostatic. It has a clutch but that's not necessarily for shifting. It's for engaging the PTO...so it's not really a manual clutch.
My B2320 has a clutch as well. I have never used it to shift, just to engage and dis-engage the pto. But if you want a machine with a manual transmission I am sure you can find one. But the hydrostatic makes things much easier, especially going from forward to reverse. I wouldn't do without it.

Yes, I was meaning the PTO clutch vs the electric one on the 2650. I am used to the pedal but the electric must be good if its on their machines.

 

[PA452]

Yes, I was meaning the PTO clutch vs the electric one on the 2650. I am used to the pedal but the electric must be good if its on their machines.

Is the PTO clutch on the B2650 electric? I kind of assumed it was as well, but then in reading my manual it describes engaging that lever slowly and other language that implies it's mechanically engaging the PTO.

I've only had my B2650 a little over a week and only used the PTO once so far.

 

[todd.ted]

One big difference in the L to the B, is mid PTO connection - if you dont need you can save money on your tractor and maybe get more attachments. In my case I went with the B2650 because I wanted a front mount blower which requires the mid PTO. My driveway is about 1800 feet long and going backwards was not something I was willing to do. If I didn't need that I probably would have gone with an L.



If your blower is on the back you wont be using a rear blade as well. I would go with a SSQA on your loader and then you could add a blade, box, or bucket as needed. A dedicated snow blade with the hydraulic function is nice if you have space to push snow to. The SSQA will let you swap the implement you need on the FEL easily.


Mowing a field I would use either rotary cutter or a flail mower. Finish mowers, MMM or rear, follow the contours of the land either with contact wheels or the tractor body, so if your field is even a bit rough it will show.

Is the PTO clutch on the B2650 electric? I kind of assumed it was as well, but then in reading my manual it describes engaging that level slowly and other language that implies it's mechanically engaging the PTO.

I've only had my B2650 a little over a week and only used the PTO once so far.

I thought that is what the dealer said when I asked him about it. There has to be something there to engage it slowly.

 

[Oliver]

I just went from a B2650 to an L2501hst because I found the MMM not suitable for mowing my semi-rough, pastures and too awkward and slow for the lawn around the house and trees. So I didn't need the MMM, and looking at L01's I liked the wider track (58" vs 53" outside R4 width) and just overall heavier duty build of them. I was able to sell my B2650 with the MMM and I bought an L2501 and while the L is a more basic tractor I really like it better for a few reasons.
I bought it with the FEL including 3rd function and LP quick hitch, along with 2' spacers which at 62" wide now makes this tractor really stable. I didn't want the added weight of liquid filled tires, instead choosing to use a ballast box when using the FEL with nothing on the rear, and for mowing it's heavy enough with the flail hanging off the back. Plus over the last few years on previous tractors I've had to deal with two punctured/cut tires with just air in them (one front and one rear), I couldn't imagine the mess had the rear been filled.

For mowing my pastures I use a 58" flail and for the yards picked up a 60" zero-turn. My primary use for the tractor is loader/grapple along with rear blade and landscape rake. There's also a good bit of mowing the pastures but only once each Fall.

If you don't plan on using the mid PTO, for around the same price, I'd recommend an L2501 over a B2650.

 

[todd.ted]

I just went from a B2650 to an L2501hst because I found the MMM not suitable for mowing my semi-rough, pastures and too awkward and slow for the lawn around the house and trees. So I didn't need the MMM, and looking at L01's I liked the wider track (58" vs 53" outside R4 width) and just overall heavier duty build of them. I was able to sell my B2650 with the MMM and I bought an L2501 and while the L is a more basic tractor I really like it better for a few reasons.
I bought it with the FEL including 3rd function and LP quick hitch, along with 2' spacers which at 62" wide now makes this tractor really stable. I didn't want the added weight of liquid filled tires, instead choosing to use a ballast box when using the FEL with nothing on the rear, and for mowing it's heavy enough with the flail hanging off the back. Plus over the last few years on previous tractors I've had to deal with two punctured/cut tires with just air in them (one front and one rear), I couldn't imagine the mess had the rear been filled.

For mowing my pastures I use a 58" flail and for the yards picked up a 60" zero-turn. My primary use for the tractor is loader/grapple along with rear blade and landscape rake. There's also a good bit of mowing the pastures but only once each Fall.

If you don't plan on using the mid PTO, for around the same price, I'd recommend an L2501 over a B2650.

Thanks for the advice. I don't really have a use for the mid PTO that I can think of. I don't have the cash to buy a zero-turn and a tractor but the flail can do the parts of the lawn I mow irregularly with my push string mower and much quicker, it could also be used on the field I have to mow in the Fall at a minimum so I will have to look into that as opposed to a finish mower.

 

[91redfrod]

I bought an L2501 last December, manual trans with a few attachments including 3rd function & grapple, just turned over 100 hrs yesterday...Iv'e never had an automatic tractor and am comfortable with the shifting of gears, I have had 0 problems & 0 buyers remorse...I do have a big ass smile when im in that seat. sounds like your purchase is well thought out U will no doubt end up with that same smile.

 

[ccoon520]

I don't know if this concerns you at all but the L series is an economy tractor so it has fewer comforts than the B series tractors. So the B will have Armrests, a more ergonomic location on the loader stick, etc.. Also the B series runs smaller implements, meaning it does take more time but they generally cost a little less to get the implements you need.

As far as the rear blade or front blade goes, I have the rear blade and just turn it "backwards" over my gravel driveway when clearing snow. Its weight keeps it digging into the snow but since the knife edge is facing the opposite way very little to no gravel is taken with it.

 

[Stmar]

I went with the B2650HSDC for the cab, have no real use so far for the mid PTO. I have a snow blade but could have probably saved the $$ and just use the FEL and back blade. My back blade pivots 180 degrees so I can reverse it and remove snow without cutting into the gravel driveway too much, as a previous poster mentioned. Which ever you decide on go with the SSQA, once you get used to it it is a good option if you change implements. I like the hydro more than I thought, very nimble and responsive.

 

[todd.ted]

I have decided on the 2501 but have a question regarding insurance. To get the financing I need the Kubota insurance as my homeowners will not cover off property usage. What do people do if they use their tractor off property after the loan period ends? When I called my insurance company they said that even going in the road to move snow was considered off property. I have a small field that needs mowing I can only access by going on the road to get there a short distance due to topography. I might also try and get some snow plowing gigs with neighbors but haven't got anything lined up yet.

Hi. I have been perusing the forum for a month or so after deciding that I need a tractor to help with a number of chores on my property that I purchased last year. I somewhat narrowed it down to the B2650 and the L2501 but recently learned of the B2601 which the dealer didn't mention when I first stopped in. I have used a B2400 on a neighbors property for a number of tasks: snow removal, rear blade to dig a ditch, box blade to fill in rain ruts on driveway, finish mower on the back yard, bucket for moving firewood, moving mulch and pulling some dead trees up, tiller for preparing an area for planting bushes (he has a lot of implements).

My primary uses for the tractor will be general moving of objects like wood for heating, snow removal on 100 yard driveway that has gentle slope towards the house, gravel driveway maintenance, mowing ~3 acre field once or twice a year, box blade and loader to add and flatten the ground in a fenced-in garden area so I can add fruit trees there (there are some bad ridges in there and it is hard to mow with anything but a push trimmer and that is impossible in some spots), getting to areas where I cannot take a 4 wheeler and trailer to get firewood on my property so I can make less trips, making a new trail through the woods to connect two existing trails, using the box blade to touch up the trails that I do have, using the box blade to get rid of the ruts over time in the field as it is pretty uneven and tore up from the farmer who has cut it over the years because he does it when he can not when the conditions are good (it was pretty wet last year so he almost got stuck on a low lying part and just didn't mow where he couldn't get to).

Currently I use an Arctic Cat 400 for snow removal and to tow a trailer where possible for gathering wood. It takes a long time to clean up the driveway after a sizable snow fall which isn't viable long term. Last year I hired the farmer to mow as he had been doing it for years and I didn't have time to look into anything else.

I was initially looking on Craigslist at used but the cost vs. the low finance rates that Kubota offers makes the used ones not viable as I would pay more in the long run and not necessarily get exactly what I need initially. I test drove a BX25 that was listed locally but the backhoe and footprint seemed to make it unsteady driving on their lawn in high gear and I felt the woods would have been too much for it. I have driven both the B2650 and the L2501 at the local Kubota dealer.

B2650 pros:
Higher ground clearance for woods work
It seemed to have a much better turn radius driving around at the dealer which would be great for snow removal
Less weight for woods work and mowing of field
The controls seem to be better set up

L2501 pros:
More power
I like the manual clutch but not sure it is better (for PTO vs electric on B series)
Familiar setup

I got a quote from the dealer on both of them and with the financing and discounts they are pretty close in price.

L2501 HST w/ filled turf tires, spacer & chains, block heater:
LA525, QA, 3rd Function
FDR1660
BB1566
SB1072

B2650 HST w/ filled turf tires, spacer & chains, block heater:
LA534A, QA, 3rd Function
RCK60
BB1560
SB1072

Some specific questions I have:

• Would I be better off getting a rear blade to assist with snow removal and trail/ditch work instead of the snow blade that only has one function? It seems like the bucket could do a lot of snow removal and with the rear blade I could always turn it around and push backwards if needed. This would also save on costs.
• From what I have read on here the mid mount mower (which I had them quote as it is the more expensive option) is best for manicured type lawns and the not mowing fields. So I should go for the rear mount mower if I get a 2650?
• For the box blade would I be better served to get as large of a unit as the machine can use, I sized down to just cover my footprint for the L2501 quote as I hadn't thought about needing the weight of the implement to do the work?
• A lot of posts say to buy the 5th tractor you need not the one you think you need and that and the cost/incentives have driven the look at the L2501. I am not sure the weight will be helpful in the woods tho.

Thanks.

 

[PA452]

I have decided on the 2501 but have a question regarding insurance. To get the financing I need the Kubota insurance as my homeowners will not cover off property usage. What do people do if they use their tractor off property after the loan period ends? When I called my insurance company they said that even going in the road to move snow was considered off property. I have a small field that needs mowing I can only access by going on the road to get there a short distance due to topography. I might also try and get some snow plowing gigs with neighbors but haven't got anything lined up yet.

You could keep paying for KTAC, or there's a type of insurance you should be able to add to your policy that should cover your tractor when it's off the premises. I forget the name of it though.

 

[Oliver]

I What do people do if they use their tractor off property after the loan period ends?

I've never financed any of my tractors nor have I ever purchased insurance on them. I regularly drive on a road that connects two of my properties. I can't imagine needing to buy insurance for a tractor, riding lawn mower, ATV, etc. just for that? Of course if I used them for business on other peoples property that'd be different.

 

[PA452]

I've never financed any of my tractors nor have I ever purchased insurance on them. I regularly drive on a road that connects two of my properties. I can't imagine needing to buy insurance for a tractor, riding lawn mower, ATV, etc. just for that? Of course if I used them for business on other peoples property that'd be different.

I grew up driving tractors down the road now and then, not insured and never thought anything of it. But with a newer, $30k+ tractor, I have to say I'd be a little uneasy about it being uninsured.

Driving down the road is maybe a little different. I worry more about trailering it. I have over $30k on the trailer behind me, and if I get into an accident and I'm at fault, if the tractor was destroyed it's not going to be covered by my auto insurance.

 

[Oliver]

True, if you wreck your truck while towing your tractor behind on a trailer, or the tractor simple falls off the trailer, it's coming out of your pocket. The main worry for me would be liability, but I'm pretty sure if towing something and you get in an accident with whatever you're towing causing damage, your vehicle liability covers that.

 

[dirtydeed]

Congrats on your decision.

I'd agree with the KTAC insurance statement. You're pretty much covered for everything, short of damage caused by War.

It's great coverage. The other option I believe is called an "inland marine" policy.

 

[PaulL]

Presumably since the other land also sounds owned by you, you're covered whilst on it? So any damage not covered is only while on the road, and only if they can tell the damage happened whilst on the road? Sounds pretty low risk to me.

I mow up the road all the time with my BX, and have no idea whether or not it's covered. I'm not actually sure it's covered at home either. I struggle to imagine breaking it so badly that I wouldn't just pay to get it fixed and learn from the experience.

Third party liability would be my only concern - if I damage or hurt someone else's stuff. But if I'm on the road, I'd say it'd be someone else driving into me, not me into them.