B2650 ballast box

[Spectre381]

I have to admire Spectre381's ballast box, I want one!!! however for the little FEL work I do, I'll probably continue with my home made ballast which I add to my box blade.

It is comprised of a few feet of 2"x4", hollow concrete blocks. I'll attempt to put some pics along with this. I use this as ballast only when using FEL. I cannot use the box blade for a box blade as it's intended use as the blocks get pushed up by the dirt.



Pics will show how the 2"x4"s address the top offset of the BB frame and allow the blocks to simply hang down into the BB keeping the weight down as low as possible. Each set of two blocks and associated wood supports weigh 60 lbs. with the 12 blocks and wood supports, the total added weight is 360 lbs. add that to the BB weight of 370 lbs gives me a total of 740 lbs.

The cost of this was about $1.60 for each block and a few dollars for the lumber. around $30.00.

Sweet!! Very neat set-up and looks very functional!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Raymo853]

Old thread, but I am planning to mimic Spectre's idea for my Titan box.

 

[NHSleddog]

My weight box is my 3rd most used attachment on my B2650 right behind the FEL and rake.

I wanted maximum density. This is a steel box filled with lead and it weighs just over 800 lbs. I feels just right. I also have loaded tires in the back. 3" Spacers on the back and 1.5" spacers on the front.

 

[OLD GAR]

When I first got Old Dog it had liquid in the rear tires. For the light work I never saw a need for more aft weight. Later some heavier work and losing the ballast in one rear tire I opted to mount the 5 foot box blade and that along with a five foot piece of rail road rail took care of my problems.

 

[GeoHorn]

When I first got Old Dog it had liquid in the rear tires. For the light work I never saw a need for more aft weight. Later some heavier work and losing the ballast in one rear tire I opted to mount the 5 foot box blade and that along with a five foot piece of rail road rail took care of my problems.

You got more problems only one other here knows about and you need tar and feathers, to go along with that ridiing-rail to resolve ‘em.

 

[SDT]

To each his own I guess, but if I wanted to fill something up with cement I wouldnt pay that kind of money for a big K ballast box,, half a 55 gallon drum would work just jim dandy too,, but then like I said thats just me

Agreed.

I have the same ballast box for use with my B3350.

I keep 8-10 (can't remember) 40 Lb. bags of playground sand inside. Left sand in bags to allow easy removal should I decide to use the box to haul rocks, etc. I certainly would not fill it with cement.

Most annoying issue that I have with my Kubota ballast box is the positioning of the hitch pins. Lift arms on my B3350 do not lower enough to set the box on the floor for removal so must set on a couple of 4X4s.

Annoying and unanticipated.

SDT

 

[i7win7]

Most annoying issue that I have with my Kubota ballast box is the positioning of the hitch pins. Lift arms on my B3350 do not lower enough to set the box on the floor for removal so must set on a couple of 4X4s.

My Kubota ballast box was not quick hitch compatible. Ordered Titan box off Amazon. The Titan SOB's make a 3pt box and a QH compatible box. Had to lower and extend the top mount.

Ideas to make implements QH compatible

Get the most benefit from your quick hitch. Buying new get QH compatible. Here is a photo of an implement whose manufacturer has their act together. Note how it's designed for cat 1 & 2. Also the lift arm spacing can be adjusted. Some "QH compatible" only need minor modification. This TSC...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[ki4dog]

FWIW, round or taper the edges of the bottom if you make one because you may take off in the tractor and forget it's down. I slid mine about 30 feet across the yard when I backed out of the storage area. The tapered bottom didn't act as a box blade. My ballast is ugly but it works and was dirt cheap to build. I took a heavy duty plastic storage tote, ran a draw bar through it at the top near a narrow end, bolted on a piece for the top link, piled in a bunch of junk chain and bits of metal then filled with concrete. No idea what it weighs, but it counters the loader on my L2501. The sides of the tote bulged out from the weight, so it's pretty much rounded everywhere. I just cut off the tote once the concrete dried and then rattle canned it black.

 

[SDT]

To each his own I guess, but if I wanted to fill something up with cement I wouldnt pay that kind of money for a big K ballast box,, half a 55 gallon drum would work just jim dandy too,, but then like I said thats just me

Agreed.

I have the same Kubota ballast box for omy B3350.

I have 8 or 10 (can't remember) 40 Lb. bags of playground sand inside. The sand is still in the bags so that I can remove it if desired to haul rocks, etc.

I certainly would not fill my ballast box with concrete.

SDT

 

[nbryan]

My BB1560 boxblade is just the right weight counterbalance to just hold the rear tires down with a totally maxed out to release valve operation front end load, on pallet forks. It is larger than ballast boxes but for my needs it works perfect.

 

[i7win7]

If you set your ballast box on wood or cement blocks, sooner or later you'll bump it a little too hard and knock it over. A wooden parking stand is a worthwhile accessory.

 

[ButchB]

In case your considering a quick hitch, I found out the hard way that the Kubota ballast box does not fit on the Land Pride QH15 (Quick Hitch). I guess I should have searched the forums first, but you would think their sales pitch about matched implements.....

 

[chim]

Tractor rears are filled. My counterweight is a drum with concrete fill. Milk crate bolted to the top. Vertical pipes with a large "header" across the bottom so the pipes won't accumulate junk or water. Drum, PVC, misc. steel and a few concrete anchors were from junk at work. Drawbar was from a pile at home. Concrete was donated from work (left over from pours). Milk crate was $6.99 at TSC. SMV sign was from a shelf in the garage and the reflective tape was left over from another project. Paint was left over from a mower deck refurb.

Not much out of pocket expense on this one.

 

[nbryan]

My B2650 box blade, a Land Pride BB1560, weighs 428 lbs, and is just the right counterweight for the pallet forks to be able to lift their maximum load (bypass valve engages) and still keep the rear tires planted on the ground. The BB obviously sits back of the 3-point a ways to the net counterbalance effect is amplified somewhat compared to a ballast box arrangement.
BTW I have no tires filled, just air.

 

[BigG]

The upright pipes ending in the PVC is a great idea.

 

[19thSF]

Lots of great ideas in these posts. If space behind the tractor is really an issue, this might be worth considering. The rear tires on my B2650 are filled (with beat juice). I have the 60" (light material) bucket. I just spread 20 tons of 3/4" stone along my gravel driveway with no additional ballast on the rear. I picked up a lot of the material at a time, with no problem. I have a heavy hitch, but I did not need to mount it. It would seem that if I had needed additional ballast, the heavy hitch would have used up the least space behind the tractor. It also has the advantage of being a hitch receiver.

Good luck Zin01 with the tractor. It is the best tool I every purchased (although the most expensive).

 

[BobInSD]

The upright pipes ending in the PVC is a great idea.

I like lots of the ideas here. I'm somewhat frugal, so I'd make one more like his. When I had a bigger tractor there was always something on the back (PITA to swap, and not a nimble tractor either way, so why bother). I'm thinking I might need some weight back there with the Kubota. Something narrower than the box blade.

I have an old/useless/scrap single stage snowblower with a Cat I & II hitch bolted to it. I may try to make something out of a 55 gallon drum, but put the hitch outside so I can unbolt it from the barrel if a better project comes along.