B2630 won't start

[brownsl]

I started up my B2630 yesterday no problem. I drove to mow my field. When driving there in the road I thought it seemed like it was not moving as fast as usual. When I got there I engaged the PTO for the mid mount mower. The engine slowed way down and then died. I could not get it started after that. I towed it back to my garage. It seems like it might be connected to the engine not operating as fast as normal.

When I say it won't start it does not crank at all. I turn the key and the dash lights come on but that is it. No noise at all.

Tractor is about 7 years old and has 193 hours on it. This is the first time I have had any problem with it. I have done all the routine maintenance myself.

Checked all fluids and they are good.

I checked battery and it is at 12 volts.

I just checked the two seat switches and they are good. The other switches look much hard to get at, remove seat deck?

I also rocked the fwd/reverse pedal to make sure it is at neutral.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[RCW]

Hmmm....with it bogging down, quitting, then no crank, could be several things. Bog/quit could be fuel issue, but no crank is electrical/safety issue. Both combined could be alternator/voltage regulator (unless yours has a dynamo?, not sure your model)..

But always start simple.....I'd start by removing and cleaning all the battery connections at both ends, especially the ground. Also, have battery load tested if cleaning connections doesn't work. 12v doesn't mean much if it doesn't have the ass to turn it over...

Our buddy here "85Hokie" would say those connections should be "clean, bright, and tight."

If your safety switches are all good, maybe you can get it cranking at least.....

 

[RCW]

Both combined could be alternator/voltage regulator (unless yours has a dynamo?, not sure your model).....

EDIT - I think this is incorrect. Was thinking gasoline engine making spark...diesel doesn't need that.

Gosh - I'd have you checking points and condenser....and you don't have them....

Could apply if alternator/VR isn't charging battery....

Sorry about that...

 

[brownsl]

Hmmm....with it bogging down, quitting, then no crank, could be several things. Bog/quit could be fuel issue, but no crank is electrical/safety issue. Both combined could be alternator/voltage regulator (unless yours has a dynamo?, not sure your model)..

But always start simple.....I'd start by removing and cleaning all the battery connections at both ends, especially the ground. Also, have battery load tested if cleaning connections doesn't work. 12v doesn't mean much if it doesn't have the ass to turn it over...

Our buddy here "85Hokie" would say those connections should be "clean, bright, and tight."

If your safety switches are all good, maybe you can get it cranking at least.....

The battery connections are clean and tight. The volts drop down to 11.5 V when I try to start it. I also put on a charger and tried to charge start it and still nothing.

 

[William1]

A '12V battery' is supposed to measure 12.8 at rest, less is not good. Under 12V is either a dead or a bad battery. Try charging the battery first, see if the tractor will start. If it does, do a voltage check at idle and at speed. At speed, voltage should be at or close to 14V. If with a fully charged battery and at speed, the voltage is low, then you have a charging system issue. wire/regulator/dynamo/alternator. If the voltage is up, shut the tractor off, let it sit for an hour or so and see if the battery voltage drops. If it did, it is probably a bad battery OR some sort of parasitic drain.

 

[jnschnit]

I am not familiar with your 2630 but my 2620 as soon as I turn the key to the on position you can hear the relay click so that you can tell the safety interlock switches are correct. I think you may be dealing with two problems. Your start/no crank problem is more than likely and electrical problem whereas your power problem will more than likely an engine possibly fuel problem. Fuel Filter?

 

[Fitch]

With regard to the starting problem: If you have a volt meter, or a 12V test light with clip leads, check the solenoid terminal on the starter to see if 12V appears there when you turn the key. You may have to have someone else sit in the seat and turn the key. If you have a test light with longer leads, you can set it where you can see it from the seat.

If the light doesn't come on, there is a problem in the interlock system, or the ignition switch. If the light does come on, the problem is likely the starter solenoid.

With regard to the power loss, there could be any number of causes for that.

Most often, with a Diesel, it's a shortage of fuel, and most of the time that's caused by a clogged fuel filter.

On a tractor 7 years old with less than 200 hours on it, it's possible you have anaerobic algae in the fuel - that stuff can cause loss of power to complete stoppage by plugging the filter, clogging the injectors, and a number of other things.

It's also possible the fuel shutoff solenoid is acting up, or partially clogged or blocked.

Hope this helps.

Fitch