B2620HSD will not start

[mmartineau10]

Ok, so earlier this week I had a mishap with my tractor and it ended up laying on it's right side for about an hour before it could be recovered (roll bar and seatbelt probably save me).

After getting it back on all 4 tires, I did a quick visual inspection and didn't see anything damaged. I was able to start it back up and move it back into my yard. A day later, it started again and I parked in my garage for further inspection.

Everything seemed fine. However, when I went to start the tractor, it would not start. It cranks, starter turns, I can hear the fuel solenoid, but no combustion or exhaust.

So far I've checked:
1. All fuses - good
2. Start relay - good
3. Fuel in bowl - good
4. Fuel in lines (up to bleed valve) - good
5. Fuel solenoid - I hear it click. I even pulled and tested the solenoid. Right now the solenoid is removed and it still wont start.

I'm getting a new battery today just in case - I know mines getting old. But if its cranking, could it still be the battery?

I'm also concerned that I'm not bleeding the air in the lines well enough. I crack the bleed valve and there is a steady flow of fuel. Could there be air between the valve and the injectors?

Thanks to anyone who has any advice. Snow is coming soon and I need this machine to clear my driveway!

 

[RCW]

Just so I/we understand correctly:

The tractor was on its side for an hour.

After recovery and you got it on 4 wheels, you pretty much started it immediately?

Did you pull glow plugs or injectors prior to starting it the first time?

 

[Runs With Scissors]

After recovery and you got it on 4 wheels, you pretty much started it immediately?

 

[Dave_eng]

The big risk with the immediate start is that some fluid, fuel, coolant water........ gets into the cylinders.

Because any fluid is non compressible you run the risk of bending connecting rod(s) and now your engine compression is not high enough to light the diesel fuel.

Best to have the engine compression checked to see if the engine is so badly damaged it is junk.

RCW's comment provides a way to clear any fluid from the cylinders so connecting rods do not get damaged.

Dave

 

[Mark_BX25D]

If it's cranking and not starting, I would not worry about your battery. It's possible that the fall caused a cell to short out so and it's not cranking fast enough, but I'd jump start it to test that theory, rather than spending money on a battery that is probably not needed.

I agree with others - you need to consider engine damage, and the best place to start is a compression test.

BTW, you might want to bleed right at the injectors. It's not difficult and it's basically free.


BTW, FWIW, my son rolled my BX, and the seat belt and ROPS saved him. We righted it in about a half hour, and I fired it right up. I didn't know any better. I got away with it, though. No problems. Now that I know what COULD have happened, it scares me!

 

[mmartineau10]

Just so I/we understand correctly:

The tractor was on its side for an hour.

After recovery and you got it on 4 wheels, you pretty much started it immediately?

Did you pull glow plugs or injectors prior to starting it the first time?

I did. I started immediately not knowing the risk. Not only did it run then, but again the next day. I've learned since then the dangers of doing this.

Today I pulled the glow plugs and the cylinders were dry. I think I got lucky there.

 

[Russell King]

If you ran it, it would have ejected any fluid and burned any excess fluid out.

But how long did it run each time it ran (After the accident)?

If you bleed it at the injectors, you will be sure that it should start. I assume it is a common mechanical injection pump so you won’t hurt anything doing that. If it is a high pressure common rail (which I doubt) then it would not help and could hurt the tractor.

If you damaged the rods already then you can’t damage it any worse. So I would try bleed it first- if you know how to do it and know when it is bled well.

Good Luck