B2601 Wet Exhaust on Cold Start-up

msmcknight

Member

Equipment
B2601
Oct 30, 2017
75
4
8
Statesville, NC, USA
Hi all,

I have a 2017 B2601 with 300 hours on it. I've recently noticed that when I go to start it up at the beginning of the day, the exhaust is blowing out drops of soot-soaked liquid. I don't know if it's oil or un-burned fuel, but it's not done this before and has me a little concerned.

IMG_0720.JPG


Most of my work with it is low-RPM/low-speed tasks like forklift work, weed spraying, seeding, etc. High-RPM work is more rare, but includes running a wood-chipper and ground-engaging implements. I've not noticed any mechanical issues and all seems to be running well. I'm worried something inside the engine may be failing. Plus... it's making a mess all over my garage!

I don't notice it after the tractor has been running for a while and I start/stop is as needed while working. Seems to only be the initial start after it's been sitting overnight or longer.

Any ideas on what this might be (ie. oil or fuel), why it would have suddenly started, and what might be failing that would cause it?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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From my mechanics days, I remember that one of the by products of a properly running engine is water vapor.

I would bet the water vapor is condensing on the initially cool exhaust pipe and running down the tailpipe, collecting soot, and making those drips.

Touch them with your finger, and smell it. It will most likely smell like nothing.

Unless it smells like fuel, or is actually oily, I think its no big deal/normal, but just annoying.
 
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BAP

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2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
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Looks like your tractor is starting to slobber because of your lack of running it warm enough to keep everything burned up. The worst thing in the world for a diesel engine is to run it constantly at low rpm’s. They will eventually become oil burners because of the carbon buildup and stuck rings. You need to stop running it constantly at low RPMs and keep the RPMs up when using it.
 
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The Evil Twin

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L2501, LA526,
Jul 19, 2022
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Without going into the deep end of the science pool, it is most likely water. Combustion generates H2O amongst other things. Like @Runs With Scissors said. Ever notice drips coming out of the tailpipe of cars when it's cold out? That, and the "steam" you see are water vapor.
You aren't getting the engine, and exhaust, hot enough.
 

85Hokie

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BAP wrote it better than I was going to.

It is designed to run - run it! No, I don't mean run it like you stole it but just allow that thing to be making some RPMS.
 

msmcknight

Member

Equipment
B2601
Oct 30, 2017
75
4
8
Statesville, NC, USA
Thanks, all. So what's the baseline? It seems the engine temps stay the same no matter if I'm running at 1500 RPM or 3000 RPM. The temp gauge pretty much just stays at the same "max" spot once it gets up to temp. And, if that's the case, how do RPM's matter? Not arguing, just trying to understand how I can gauge "hot enough" without wasting fuel.

What RPM's should I maintain for light-load work? If 1500 is too low, should I be at 2000, 3000? Or can I run it at 1500 as needed and then ramp it up for a few minutes before I put it away for the night?

I checked the "drips" and they didn't really smear when I wiped them up, so perhaps it is water droplets, but that still doesn't explain why I'm just now seeing it after nearly 5 years of pretty much the same use of the tractor, same RPM range, etc.

Thanks again!
 
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MapleLeafFarmer

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Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
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Thanks, all. So what's the baseline? It seems the engine temps stay the same no matter if I'm running at 1500 RPM or 3000 RPM. The temp gauge pretty much just stays at the same "max" spot once it gets up to temp. And, if that's the case, how do RPM's matter? Not arguing, just trying to understand how I can gauge "hot enough" without wasting fuel.

What RPM's should I maintain for light-load work? If 1500 is too low, should I be at 2000, 3000? Or can I run it at 1500 as needed and then ramp it up for a few minutes before I put it away for the night?

I checked the "drips" and they didn't really smear when I wiped them up, so perhaps it is water droplets, but that still doesn't explain why I'm just now seeing it after nearly 5 years of pretty much the same use of the tractor, same RPM range, etc.

Thanks again!
nice little tractor! I used to own one.

if memory serves rated RPM is 2800 so for loader/BH work I probably ran it around 2000 - 2001 rpm.
Pulling a mower 2500 rpm.
I never seem to run anything I own at full rated rpm unless doing very heavy work. Never gave me a lick of problems at 2000 hrs when it went to a new owner that subsequently was quickly stolen afterwards.
I would say I would worry if ran at 1500 over its full life as being too low.
at 300 hrs you are just getting it broken in. huge amount of life and enjoyment left to be had.
 

BAP

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I run my B2920 at around 2000 rpm’s or more when doing non PTO work. This keeps the engine warm and ensures that it keeps it clean internally of moisture and carbon buildup.
 

The Evil Twin

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L2501, LA526,
Jul 19, 2022
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Thanks, all. So what's the baseline? It seems the engine temps stay the same no matter if I'm running at 1500 RPM or 3000 RPM. The temp gauge pretty much just stays at the same "max" spot once it gets up to temp. And, if that's the case, how do RPM's matter? Not arguing, just trying to understand how I can gauge "hot enough" without wasting fuel.

What RPM's should I maintain for light-load work? If 1500 is too low, should I be at 2000, 3000? Or can I run it at 1500 as needed and then ramp it up for a few minutes before I put it away for the night?

I checked the "drips" and they didn't really smear when I wiped them up, so perhaps it is water droplets, but that still doesn't explain why I'm just now seeing it after nearly 5 years of pretty much the same use of the tractor, same RPM range, etc.

Thanks again!
Coolant temp doesn't equate to to EGT (exhaust temperature). That is what will cook off moisture and keep the cylinders hot. Also, if yours is like mine, the gauge measures temperature like meteorologist makes a weather forecast.
As a unrelated example: my diesel truck has an operating coolant temperature of 200- 205°f. It holds that temp no matter if the EGT is 300° or 800°.
 
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D2Cat

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Engine slobber! Increase RPM and work the engine like it was designed to do and it will disappear.
 
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River19

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Sep 10, 2020
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As just another B2601 datapoint......I run mine for non-PTO work at 2000-2100 Rpm normally and then when blowing snow with he PTO, wide open. With ~140hrs on the clock now, I have never noticed any drools coming from my exhaust on start up. Plenty of "soot" per usual.
 

DustyRusty

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Don't worry about wasting fuel. Fuel is less expensive than costly engine repairs. It is a diesel engine, and as such, higher RPM doesn't necessarily equate to higher fuel consumption as it does with a gasoline engine.
 
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