My understanding is that so long as you're not collapsing the sidewall and you're not on hard surfaces, you'll be fine. If you go too low you can roll a tire off, or can fold a sidewall and puncture it. I'd have thought 15psi is relatively safe, maybe 10. I don't have filled tires so can't really say how that impacts pressures.
B2601 review and thoughts
- Thread starter alfb
- Start date
Approaching 80 hours on my B2601 I got last fall. My main task is mowing my 4 acre yard with 5' LP finish mower and the B2601 is beating me to death when I hit bumps. Serious jolt to the old back! My tires are filled.
I understand the lack of suspension issue but my question is would a heavier tractor like a L2501 be as bumpy pulling the same finish mower. The B2601 is doing everything I need for my property, really pleased overall with what it can do but could see myself trading it in at some point if a heavier tractor would provide a more comfortable "mowing" experience!
I understand the lack of suspension issue but my question is would a heavier tractor like a L2501 be as bumpy pulling the same finish mower. The B2601 is doing everything I need for my property, really pleased overall with what it can do but could see myself trading it in at some point if a heavier tractor would provide a more comfortable "mowing" experience!
Do you need your tires filled? That's clearly known to impact compliance. Lots of people here swear by filled tires. Full disclosure - mine aren't filled. But my tractor also doesn't beat me up. I still use my loader, I just use a ballast box. Without getting into the usual arguments, in my opinion a ballast box is better than filled tires anyway. Filled tires still mean all the weight is on your front axle when using the loader. A ballast box acts as a counter weight - it actually reduces load on your front tires. And of course you can take a ballast box off when mowing, whereas filled tires are always filled.
My other piece of (sort of unsolicited) advice is that a bumpy yard will beat you up when mowing quickly pretty much irrespective the machine. A much bigger machine with bigger wheels will ride a bit softer, an air seat will help. But at a given speed most machines with the same size wheels will hurt you about the same amount. You can go slower by getting a wider mower (people say you can't do it, but a given HP can cut a given amount of grass in a minute. That can be a narrow cut going fast, or a wide cut going slow. If you're explicitly planning to go slow because of bumpiness, you can run a wider mower).
The answer to this is that you have a tractor. Why do you have a bumpy yard? Make it flat. The whole point of a tractor is to change your surroundings to match your convenience.
My other piece of (sort of unsolicited) advice is that a bumpy yard will beat you up when mowing quickly pretty much irrespective the machine. A much bigger machine with bigger wheels will ride a bit softer, an air seat will help. But at a given speed most machines with the same size wheels will hurt you about the same amount. You can go slower by getting a wider mower (people say you can't do it, but a given HP can cut a given amount of grass in a minute. That can be a narrow cut going fast, or a wide cut going slow. If you're explicitly planning to go slow because of bumpiness, you can run a wider mower).
The answer to this is that you have a tractor. Why do you have a bumpy yard? Make it flat. The whole point of a tractor is to change your surroundings to match your convenience.
Why do I have a bumpy yard? My yard is / was a pasture and in terms of pastures a pretty good shape pasture at that. Just bought the place and learning where the nasty bumps are which is helping and am working to smooth some areas that need it. However pastures aren't manicured yards and even really nice pastures which mine is.......looks smooth as silk from a distance .....isn't!! Hit even a smaller bump/rut full speed in medium gear while mowing and the B2601 lets you know it in a painful way, particularly for those of us with less than stellar backs to begin with! Even though a L2501 has about the same quality seat as a B2601 less the armrests I was just curious how much if any the weight difference between the two effects ride quality. I almost bought a LX2610 for the seat alone but after some follow up reviews I've read about it I'm glad I didn't.
Again, B2601 has done a great job for me. Mowing, driveway grading, food plots, loader work its met every task I've thrown at it. I'll probably end up getting a bigger tractor in a couple years simply to be able to pull a 72" finish mower. I figure by then there might be a new "L" series!
B2601 though is a GREAT TRACTOR that can get a LOT OF WORK DONE! Highly recommended!!
Again, B2601 has done a great job for me. Mowing, driveway grading, food plots, loader work its met every task I've thrown at it. I'll probably end up getting a bigger tractor in a couple years simply to be able to pull a 72" finish mower. I figure by then there might be a new "L" series!
B2601 though is a GREAT TRACTOR that can get a LOT OF WORK DONE! Highly recommended!!
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My L2501 does ride a bit better than the B2601. Both tractors have filled tires. I’ve been told the ride depends on tire size and the larger the tire, the better the tractor will ride on uneven terrain.
Mike
Mike
Tom, an idea I might try for an area of my lawn that has potholes is to drag my box blade full of topsoil over it. Won't have to tear up ALL the grass and start over. I may have to do the latter where the septic field was installed and not finish graded. That'll take major dirt moving. But I think for jobs that just need fill here and there, a pile of topsoil, a loader, and a box blade can be a fix. As where cattle have tromped, perhaps.
RDRCR, sent you a PM before I saw your comment above. Thanks!
And yes my plan is to use the box blade to do exactly as you describe. Fortunately, no cattle on the property for decades so its in good shape but a couple major ruts from house grading the box blade should be able to fix. Even still pastures are pastures and some of the smaller bumps result in a nasty jolt with the B2601. But it's a tractor, to be expected. My options in a year or two will probably be either to drop $15k on a good 72" zero turn or upgrade to a larger heavier tractor that can pull a 72" finish mower. Less time to cut and maybe a smoother ride. A heavier tractor may or may not be the answer. Thanks!
And yes my plan is to use the box blade to do exactly as you describe. Fortunately, no cattle on the property for decades so its in good shape but a couple major ruts from house grading the box blade should be able to fix. Even still pastures are pastures and some of the smaller bumps result in a nasty jolt with the B2601. But it's a tractor, to be expected. My options in a year or two will probably be either to drop $15k on a good 72" zero turn or upgrade to a larger heavier tractor that can pull a 72" finish mower. Less time to cut and maybe a smoother ride. A heavier tractor may or may not be the answer. Thanks!
In addition to my new B2601 I have an Allis Chalmers 5040 circa 1984 (also orange) with a 72" brush hog style mower I use for mowing trails "in the country". The Allis is like a Cadillac in terms of ride quality compared to the B2601 which I stated earlier is like driving a brick or roller skating in a gravel pit. It is a meaningfully larger and heavier tractor .Runs like a top. No fancy electronics. I paid $5,000 for it maybe 8 years ago. I don't have any answers only questions.
Can the Allis pull the mower? That'd be a solution.
A bigger diameter wheel will ride over uneven terrain much better than a smaller wheel. That's particularly true of ditches, where a big wheel will bridge a ditch that a small wheel will sink into. With bumps on dry land both have to ride over it, so both will push you upwards. I expect the Allis also has deeper tires - so more sidewall flex available, and a heavier machine so it'll force more bend onto the tire rather than reacting so quickly to a bump.
According to tractor data the Allis is more than double the weight, and has 13.6-28 tires (I can't do tractor tire sizes well, but they look a lot bigger than a 2601). It's also a 40hp machine, so should run a bigger mower if you wanted.
Did you answer the question of why you have your tires filled? Is it worth emptying them and seeing if you get a difference?
www.tractordata.com
A bigger diameter wheel will ride over uneven terrain much better than a smaller wheel. That's particularly true of ditches, where a big wheel will bridge a ditch that a small wheel will sink into. With bumps on dry land both have to ride over it, so both will push you upwards. I expect the Allis also has deeper tires - so more sidewall flex available, and a heavier machine so it'll force more bend onto the tire rather than reacting so quickly to a bump.
According to tractor data the Allis is more than double the weight, and has 13.6-28 tires (I can't do tractor tire sizes well, but they look a lot bigger than a 2601). It's also a 40hp machine, so should run a bigger mower if you wanted.
Did you answer the question of why you have your tires filled? Is it worth emptying them and seeing if you get a difference?
TractorData.com Allis Chalmers 5040 tractor dimensions information
The tire were filled by the dealer for stability. I wanted a ballast box that they don't sell. Did not charge me so I didn't complain. Said he does it on all of them. I mow on some pretty steep hills and I suppose it helps. I would be reluctant to remove the liquid ballast. The ride quality is something I will get used to I am sure. You are right about the much bigger tires, weight and whatnot contributing to the softer ride.Can the Allis pull the mower? That'd be a solution.
A bigger diameter wheel will ride over uneven terrain much better than a smaller wheel. That's particularly true of ditches, where a big wheel will bridge a ditch that a small wheel will sink into. With bumps on dry land both have to ride over it, so both will push you upwards. I expect the Allis also has deeper tires - so more sidewall flex available, and a heavier machine so it'll force more bend onto the tire rather than reacting so quickly to a bump.
According to tractor data the Allis is more than double the weight, and has 13.6-28 tires (I can't do tractor tire sizes well, but they look a lot bigger than a 2601). It's also a 40hp machine, so should run a bigger mower if you wanted.
Did you answer the question of why you have your tires filled? Is it worth emptying them and seeing if you get a difference?
TractorData.com Allis Chalmers 5040 tractor dimensions information
To me you can get a lot of stability with spacers. They don't impact weight so much. For hills, you're generally good fore/aft stability if you're mowing with the loader off. So it's really side to side stability you need. Filled tires are good for that, but spacers can do it too. Everything's a tradeoff, as in life in general.
I'm generally a fan of a wider mower and mow slower. But I've not proven that works, it's just what I believe (I don't have a rear mower).
I have only 37hrs on mine but I have done a lot in those 37 hrs........blew snow all winter with the front blower, graded the driveway a few times with the box blade and rear blade, moved a bunch of crushed stone and dirt with the FEL etc.
Tires filled, spacers installed, turf tires......I have a relatively smooth ride, no issues. The reverse on the pedal really doesn't bother me at all. Is it stiffer than forward? Yup, but with a size 10 logger boot heel it is pretty damn easy and comfy to use. No complaints really.
I have no ROPS rattle.....the screwy handle thingy just needs a twist if it start to rattle......easy peasy.
I think the 2601 if used for what it is intended for and conservatively within its limits is a great platform and I am extremely pleased with my choice.
Tires filled, spacers installed, turf tires......I have a relatively smooth ride, no issues. The reverse on the pedal really doesn't bother me at all. Is it stiffer than forward? Yup, but with a size 10 logger boot heel it is pretty damn easy and comfy to use. No complaints really.
I have no ROPS rattle.....the screwy handle thingy just needs a twist if it start to rattle......easy peasy.
I think the 2601 if used for what it is intended for and conservatively within its limits is a great platform and I am extremely pleased with my choice.
I found the spring company referenced in the YouTube I loaded above by the guy who changed the springs on his treadle pedal and solved the stiffness. BUT I can't figure out yet which springs to order. Here is the company's site:
www.centuryspring.com
Meantime, someone sent me a message that he just jams a piece of wood under the forward pedal when he's not using the tractor. This stretches the reverse spring and loosens its play up a bit, he said. So I am trying that:
Century Spring | The Original Spring Manufacturer Since 1927
Looking to buy custom quick-delivery springs for sale? Century Spring is your go-to spring manufacturer for extension, torsion, compression springs, and…
Meantime, someone sent me a message that he just jams a piece of wood under the forward pedal when he's not using the tractor. This stretches the reverse spring and loosens its play up a bit, he said. So I am trying that:
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Took a little long for me to reply but personally I wouldn't have loaded tires especially if mowing was my primary use. I don't mow with mine but yes a bit less air would help. You probably have worked out a partial solution by now or are getting used to it?
I reduced the pressure 15%. It might feel a little better. I will get used to to it. Its not such a big deal as I am only on it about an hour or so weekly. Thanks