B2601 hill mowing advice

[silverfinch]

I've been mowing 11 acres of wild field for many years using an ATV with a tow-behind rough cut mower. These mowers don't last and don't do a great job. So, we finally decided to buy a tractor. I have a B2601 with a 48" mower ordered (should be ready in a week or so). I'm excited but I have almost no experience using a tractor and I still need to mow the field.

Most of the field is not an issue, but there are a few parts that are uneven and/or steep. With the ATV, I haven't had to worry too much about tipping. For hills, I'd make sure I was going slow straight up/down (just down for the steepest areas).

I know tractors are different and probably more likely to tip. I plan to take it easy. Since I'm so new to using a tractor, I going to focus on the easy parts of the field first, then perhaps chip away at the trickier areas; maybe even skip them entirely if I'm just not comfortable. With the ATV I would often stand up on slopes, but I know that's not possible in a tractor. So, I think I'm going to feel the angles more sitting in a tractor.

I read the B2601 manual and it mentioned backing up when mowing on hills. That surprised me since it's practically the opposite of what I'd do in the ATV (I couldn't even go in reverse much since that mower was prone to jackknifing).

The dealer is putting beet juice in the tires. Also, the FEL is on and I assume I'll want to keep that somewhat down to help with stability.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any advice for hill mowing.

 

[RCW]

I mow some steep spots with my BX.

I take the FEL off for mowing. Tractor is much more stable with it off.

Also, many here use spacers to widen the rear wheelbase.

 

[jgregory2010]

I take the FEL off as well when I mow. Make sure you have it in 4WD when mowing the hills, it helps it keep from taking off on you if you do lose some traction. I suggest having the ROPS up and your seat belt on.

 

[troverman]

Hey Silverfinch,

I live in the next town over. Did you buy yours at Townline? I have a B2920 (among others) which is very similar to your 2601. I have mowed extremely steep slopes, both up and down, and sidehill...with my B2920. Is your 48" mower a belly mower or 3-point attachment? I have a 60" belly mower and mow with a 48" flail mower.

Don't worry about up and down. The trailer will not tip over going uphill...the wheels will start to slip and not climb anymore if it is too steep. Going down, a slide / skid is possible but unlikely. Which tire style did you choose? I have the R4 industrial tires.

I mow with my loader on, but the bucket kept as low as possible. If you were mowing with the belly mower only, taking it off would actually make it more stable...but it will be fine with it on.

My rear tires are loaded as well, and I added 2-inch Bro-Tek spacers to each side. This really helps on sidehills.

Obviously, keep the roll bar up and seatbelt on and you'll be fine. I would say a tractor is less likely to roll over than an ATV.

 

[hope to float]

If you get into a skid going downhill DO NOT BRAKE. Drive out of it.

 

[Dchemphill1]

I use the FEL to push down saplings before I mow over them. Of course I am still trying to rid my pasture areas of unwanted trees and shrubs. Earlier this fall I used the ratchet rake while mowing to uproot some trees and then chopped the up or pushed the out of the way. Not tried mowing without the FEL. I am using an L3901 with 5 ft brush mower.

 

[silverfinch]

Thanks for the replies.

Yup, I bought it from Townline (small world!) It's nice having them so close.

The 48" mower I'm getting is a 3-point attachment, not a belly mower (nor is it a flail, just rotary as far as I know). My B2601 will have industrial tires (unsure on the R number). I got the quick attach for the FEL.

I get the impression that with belly mowers it's often best to remove the loader. But, with 3pt attachment(rear) mowers, it may be better to keep it on. Once I get out there and get a feel for it myself, it will likely make more sense.

The field I'm mowing has some rough parts (dips, ruts, wet, etc). I ruled out a BX because I felt like I needed more clearance. I've had a little trouble with my ATV getting stuck. I may use the tractor to mow some old logging trails in the woods too.

I'll definitely consider spacers. I will keeps the ROPS up and I'm going to try hard to always use the seatbelt too.

Skidding is not something I want to do; it's good to get some advice in case it happens.

 

[troverman]

Great purchase. Your industrial tires are "R4." I would agree to keep the loader on if you have a rear mount mower. Your "rotary" mower is essentially a brush hog - it will easily clear brush and grass and saplings. It does not leave a "finished" mowed look however, but its not bad.

I think the B series is a better choice than the BX for what you describe - a little heavier, more ground clearance, more power.

 

[SDT]

I've been mowing 11 acres of wild field for many years using an ATV with a tow-behind rough cut mower. These mowers don't last and don't do a great job. So, we finally decided to buy a tractor. I have a B2601 with a 48" mower ordered (should be ready in a week or so). I'm excited but I have almost no experience using a tractor and I still need to mow the field.

Most of the field is not an issue, but there are a few parts that are uneven and/or steep. With the ATV, I haven't had to worry too much about tipping. For hills, I'd make sure I was going slow straight up/down (just down for the steepest areas).

I know tractors are different and probably more likely to tip. I plan to take it easy. Since I'm so new to using a tractor, I going to focus on the easy parts of the field first, then perhaps chip away at the trickier areas; maybe even skip them entirely if I'm just not comfortable. With the ATV I would often stand up on slopes, but I know that's not possible in a tractor. So, I think I'm going to feel the angles more sitting in a tractor.

I read the B2601 manual and it mentioned backing up when mowing on hills. That surprised me since it's practically the opposite of what I'd do in the ATV (I couldn't even go in reverse much since that mower was prone to jackknifing).

The dealer is putting beet juice in the tires. Also, the FEL is on and I assume I'll want to keep that somewhat down to help with stability.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any advice for hill mowing.

Take the FEL off. You will need a grill guard.

Keep it in FWA all of the time when on steep ground.

Spend time getting used to your set up.

Do not try to lift the mower when going up hill until you become thoroughly familiar with your set up and conditions.

Liquid ballast helps a bit. Wheel spacers help more.

FWIW: I routinely stand up on my tractors for various reasons. You will need to defeat your seat switch in order to do this.

SDT

 

[RCW]

Several guys have caught my omission....ALWAYS 4WD on steep ground! Without 4WD, the fronts are useless to hold you back or brake.

We had several of our members here take a slide-ride this year.....I had a short one with a plate tamper hangin' off the FEL.

 

[skohler]

Not sure how your hills are laid out, but another thing to be mindful of is turning while still on an incline. I've had a few pucker moments having to maneuver on irregular ground, granted- it is mostly with loader work, but sometimes without. I Don't mow with my tractor so you may not have as much of an issue with the weight in the back. Straight up and straight down is not nearly as unstable.

 

[majorwager]

Differing opinions on mowing with or without the FEL attached. I come from an era where that was not a feature option.

Now that I can w/ the little ford and the MX, I just don't bother, although I do remove the attachment (SSQA).

One of my mowers is a Befco C-70 110 inch finish mower @ 1400 lbs. And the FEL is necessary ballast.

Agree Engaging the front wheel assist on slopes is wise advice, multiplies the breaking power

Seat belt, should be utilized.

I don't load my tires. Since the MX is used for mowing on improved turf, wet weather produces tire tracks.

My IH has 7 ft track width and that is much better at slope mowing even though it is 2wd.

I attach a you tube video screenshot of a fellow mowing a slope w/ his kubota. There is a part 2 as well. You might find this of interest if you visit you tube and search larry musgrave

 

[msmcknight]

I have a 2601 as well and I'd echo what some of the others have stated... get 2" rear wheel spacers from Brotek. The spacers turn the tractor into a completely different machine. Stability is improved for every task you'll want to tackle. I really cant describe just how much more stable the machine is with spacers. It's remarkable.

 

[johnjk]

Good tip on the spacers. Looks like something worth investigating

 

[silverfinch]

Brush hog is the right term for the mower I got and what I'm doing. I need to work on my tractor terminology.

We mow just once a year in October. We let it grow wild otherwise. The grass isn't a big concern, but I need to take down the saplings and bushes to keep the field a field. We think of it mostly as habitat. It doesn't always look great, but wildlife seems to like it (we get bobolinks, for example).

I figure I'll have it in 4wd most of the time if not always while brush hogging. I'm not sure I see a disadvantage to using it.

I'm definitely mindful of turning on a slope. Most of the field is a gentle slope which is not a problem. There are few areas that get steep, but generally there are flatter areas on either side of them. So, I'll turn on flats and make my hill passes up/down only. That's what I did with the ATV too.

I'll ask my dealer about the Brotek wheel spacers. Also, the grill guard. The ATV definitely gets covering is debris from the field, sometimes all stuck up in the insides of it. The tractor is going to be in the thick of it too.

Yeah, we'll have to see about removing the FEL. Clearly, there are different opinions. I'll may try it both ways and see which feels best for my setup.

I tracked down and watched the larry musgrave videos. I hope I don't have power issues like he was having. A recent comment reply he made there said he bought a Cub Cadet to do the job ultimately. That's kind of sad.

Here's an image of one of the tough areas. I don't know if the picture does it justice. You can see how rough and overgrown it is. I put an angle measure on it and got up to 20 degrees. It's a combination of a slope along with uneven dips. On the ATV I really felt the angle going into the dips (would typically stand up), then it would tip back up coming out within 5-10 feet. I'm unsure how the tractor will perform. It is longer, though. So, it may dip less and just be easy.

 

[BAP]

I would not take the loader off to brush mow on hills unless you have weights to put on the front of your tractor. The front end will get too light to steer well on hills particularly going up a hill. Just keep the bucket low to the ground, 12-18” off ground works best. With loader on front, and mower on back you will be fine.

 

[troverman]

I figure I'll have it in 4wd most of the time if not always while brush hogging. I'm not sure I see a disadvantage to using it.

I'll ask my dealer about the Brotek wheel spacers. Also, the grill guard. The ATV definitely gets covering is debris from the field, sometimes all stuck up in the insides of it. The tractor is going to be in the thick of it too.

Being in 4x4 all the time causes more tire wear, particularly the front tires. No harm to the tractor unless you are on a very hard surface like pavement...it causes binding. The tractor's 4x4 system is "part time" just like what you would find in most pickup trucks. It can't be used on dry pavement but is fine in the dirt, grass, snow, etc. But on slopes, I highly recommend being in 4x4 all the time.

You can order the spacers yourself directly from Bro-Tek. I paid $280 for the spacers plus $40 for shipping. I installed them myself...not hard, just need to jack the tractor up, remove the tire, install the spacer, reinstall the tire. It's like changing a tire on your car. Keep in mind the loaded rear tire will weigh probably 175lbs, but still do-able. Or the dealer can do it.

As for the grille guard, you already have one if you have a loader. It's just a simple orange metal frame that goes around the outline of the grille and is bolted to the front bumper. It provides a little bit of protection, but you could probably get a screen of sorts to go across the grille.

Be advised these tractors are fairly low and while they mow well, the front end eats a lot of grass pollen / dander / dust. This tends to plug up the radiator screen, and eventually the radiator cores themselves...and you'll see the engine temp gauge starting to get hot. It can overheat. At this point, remove the radiator screen and clean it, but later when the tractor is cool you can use a garden hose and clean the radiator as best you can. Don't worry about getting water on the battery or engine...just don't get it in the air intake at the top.

 

[silverfinch]

Thanks again for all the great advice.

 

[Freeheeler]

Personally, I like to keep the bucket on and keep it 6-8" off the ground. It bends things down and away to prevent things from getting up in the engine, clogging or tearing thru the grill, and scratching the hood. Serves as ballast when needed to help steering, and catches all the cobwebs for a more pleasant experience. It's the brush guard you already own.

 

[Hillhigh Guy]

I'll add my $.02 has a newb owner with a B2601. I'm using a 5' RFM and almost all of my unimproved 3 acres consists of a steep hills. I mostly mow up and down but I'm using all 26hp to pull the tractor and rear mower up the hill. I can only do it in low range but it gets the job done. There are some spots I go side to side but my lot was an old orchard and there are large hidden holes where trees used to be and I've hit a few by surprise and it has certainly puckered me up. I go slow and keep it it 4wd most of the time. I wanted spacers but I also have a backhoe and Kubota claims the spacers will void the warranty on the tractor .

I've learned so far: ROPS up at all times, seatbealt buckled at ALL TIMES