B26 TLB - Broken rear axle

[Smokeydog]

Some people are real rough on a backhoe. Shock loads can cause unnecessary wear.

Agree the B26 is a tough little multi purpose tractor. Really enjoying ours. Wife puts more hours on it than I. Hopefully you’ll be back making tracks before too long.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Any chance you, or a friend can remove the backhoe and subframe off and save a LOT of coins ??

 

[pcproffitt]

Any chance you, or a friend can remove the backhoe and subframe off and save a LOT of coins ??

I needed the backhoe to get the tractor aligned for pickup by the roll back truck. The dealer requested I leave the backhoe and bucket attached in case they needed them also. Dropping the subframe is likely something a bit beyond my current capabilities. Plus, if anything odd shows up while removing the backhoe they would be best to deal with it I think.

One issue I want addressed is identification of a hydraulic 'device' on the side of the subframe. It has three hydraulic hoses attached. But the only 'actuator' is a four inch long 'lever' that seems to never move. I think it is some sort of automatic diverter for the backhoe, but I'd really like to know what it does since not all B26s I've seen have it. Or, if they do, perhaps it is somewhere else. If anyone knows what that device is and what it does please let me know. I haven't found it in my Workshop Manual or Parts List for the B26. If a picture is needed I can post one.

 

[Smokeydog]

Photo of hydraulic modifications would help and maybe give a clue on how the tractor was used.
Don’t think how you used it or extensions caused your problem.

 

[pcproffitt]

Photo of hydraulic modifications would help and maybe give a clue on how the tractor was used.
Don’t think how you used it or extensions caused your problem.

The 'device' is definitely a totally different subject from the broken axle issue. So I'll post that in a separate thread.

 

[JimmyJazz]

This appears to be a ductile fracture that transpired in short order due to the lack of oxidation that would suggest a long period failure.

It is plain to see the difference in microstructure edge to center owing to the transverse position of the evidence.

Whilst I cannot preclude a long or protracted period to the fracture, the evidence, as presented, suggests a short period of cycling to ultimate failure.

The area at 3 o' clock represents the final failure. Note the shoreline features directly opposite at 9 o' clock. These likely represent the origin direction of the initial failure.

View attachment 104830

Take note of where the fractures are pointing... that single point is a prime candidate for the initial failure.

I wish I could talk like that. Well said.

 

[hagrid]

Side effect of working with 5 metallurgical engineers for 15 years.

 

[fried1765]

I have no specifics on how the tractor was used before I purchased it. There are some indications is was NOT treated gently (broken plastics, bent boom lock lever, missing boom lock pin, broken brake linkage on one side. I also have no idea if the hydraulic fluid was ever changed. The original (to me) filters were much in need of replacement (which I did last year) including replacing all the hydraulic fluid and front wheel fluids.

I'm familiar with this repositioning dance using the backhoe. I had to do it to move the tractor (sans rear wheel) to a better position for the roll back truck to easily pick it up for transport to the dealer. Every time I've used that (mostly for digging stumps as noted) I've been really careful doing it. Most times I've had the stabilizers down while moving using the backhoe.

As for cost, I'm hoping to find out something by the end of this week. The axle itself lists for almost $800. Bearings and seals would add the better part of another $100. Replacement hydraulic fluid (UDT2) would be at least another $100. Labor on that would likely at least double that. Labor to remove the backhoe, loader, and subframe just to get to the transmission casing, that's the big ticket. I'm guessing $1000-$2000. So my wild guess is $3000-$4000 for one axle and $4000-$5000 for both axles (which I intend to do). I plan to have them check the brake discs and plates while the transmission end covers are off. And I have some other linkage issues I want them to check. So this is going to be an expensive trip to the dealer. The silver lining is that coming out of it the tractor will be in better shape than when I bought it. I'm looking for all the positives I can.

My ugly cost guess for dealer work that you suggest would approach $8K.

 

[pcproffitt]

My dealer's service manager indicates the broken axle is the only casualty of this incident. Bearings and gears do not show any signs of damage. And they have inspected the other axle also saying that one shows no signs of wear.

So my decisions shortly will be whether to replace the second rear axle 'just because'. And whether to replace any bearings. I do know the oil seal for the broken axle needs to be replaced.

They also asked the Kubota RSM about wheel spacers. The RSM indicated that wheel spacers have never been sanctioned for the TLB series. I plan to ask some questions about this. Such as: Have wheel spacers been sanctioned for any of the B29xx tractors or others with the same general tractor size / wheel size / and weight? I very much like the added stability with the wheel spacers, so I'm not looking forward to having to take those off.

 

[Smokeydog]

My bumper with grill guard, bucket hooks, toolbox, fire extinguisher, chainsaw and tool carrier, diff lock pedal, polesaw carrier, machete, parking brake warning light, hazard light guards, Pat’s quick hitch, stabilizer bars, backhoe outrigger guards and mega pads, wheel extensions or rear ballast plus various other modifications and attachments aren’t sanctioned either. I have them to work more efficiently and safely. I have no reservations of taking full responsibility for any of the modifications.

Had a B20 for 25 years before replacing with a B26. Bigger backhoe, more hp, ssqa, 50% higher lift capacity, less steel more plastic, it was more tippy.
2” rear extensions and ballast made it much more stable for our use. What good is a tractor if I can’t use it on most of my property?

 

[GreX]

Curious if you were able to get any more information around the spacers? Also, what direction did you take, did the dealer offer? Selfishly curious about the spacers, as that was one of the first things folks on here told me to do with the BX2380, I only added 2" spacers to each side, but its also a much smaller tractor (or as some say, a glorified lawn mower), so I'm wondering if I need to be concerned with my decision to add them to my BX?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm wondering if I need to be concerned with my decision to add them to my BX?

No, you don't have anywhere near the weight of a B26!

 

[GreX]

No, you don't have anywhere near the weight of a B26!

I do run a rear snowblower ~450lbs in the winter, and the power bagger + MMM is about the same weight, plus the weight of the tractor.. maybe I'm overthinking it?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I do run a rear snowblower ~450lbs in the winter, and the power bagger + MMM is about the same weight, plus the weight of the tractor.. maybe I'm overthinking it?

Yea those don't add up to a TLB weight.
So yes your over thinking (stressing) it a little.

 

[lugbolt]

Is the B26 axle any different than the B20 and B21?

Because I've had to replace a few of those over the years, 2 or 3 on the same unit. After the last, I asked him exactly what he was doing. of course "just driving across the lawn". And, with that I know his neighbor, and he has no lawn, he has rocks and he's out there trying to dig them up, and not gently according to my friend who watches him work that little tractor. So what does one expect? It's a little B series, a glorified lawn mower albeit built a little better than a lawn mower, that gets used for a full fledged excavator, in that case. The others I don't know. I did ask the RSM at Kubota about it once and he said he thought that there was a running change made to the axles. I don't recall a part number revision, though, so who knows.

Ain't terribly hard to replace the axle on those, just getting the subframe off and out of the way is the worst part. Seems like it was about an 8.5 hour job complete, but it's been a good 5 or 6 years since I did the last one.