B2410 Power Beyond?

[ACDII]

So I know there is a port and a cover plate on the side of the HST, but what/where do I get to connect a PB to it?

I saw some 3pt log splitters for $700, but require either a PTO pump and tank, or tractor supplied power. I want to see what the PB would cost. Can't seem to find anything on it.

 

[kubotasam]

I think you are talking about adding rear remotes to your B2410. Kubota sold a kit through its whole goods service. Part # BL7303. Not sure if it is still available. I added my own to my B2410. I tapped into the power beyond line that runs from the loader valve back to the 3 point hitch valve.

 

[ACDII]

Page 38-39 of the manual has a mid outlet and rear outlet, but not much information other than to use a control valve with power beyond type and third line to tank. I know where the ports are but can't seem to find anything on it that shows it's use.

 

[ACDII]

OK I forgot that I had a service manual for my tractor and did some digging. The rear remote appears to mount under the seat. It is not something on my tractor that I can see, and I can't seem to find the parts required for it. The kit above appears to be what gets plumbed into it.

So instead, if I were to tap into the loader line with a hose with a 90* JIC, run that to the rear with a female quick connect, then another line with a male quick connect, back to the hose with a male JIC and connect that to the loader valve, I should have what I need. This should work provided the spool on the 3pt log splitter has a PB on it, then I just need a third line to connect to the tank.

If the splitter doesn't have a PB spool, then what would I do?

 

[kubotasam]

OK I forgot that I had a service manual for my tractor and did some digging. The rear remote appears to mount under the seat. It is not something on my tractor that I can see, and I can't seem to find the parts required for it. The kit above appears to be what gets plumbed into it.

So instead, if I were to tap into the loader line with a hose with a 90* JIC, run that to the rear with a female quick connect, then another line with a male quick connect, back to the hose with a male JIC and connect that to the loader valve, I should have what I need. This should work provided the spool on the 3pt log splitter has a PB on it, then I just need a third line to connect to the tank.

If the splitter doesn't have a PB spool, then what would I do?

Do not tap into the pressure in line from the pump to the loader valve. If your quick connectors came apart or were not seated correctly you would dead head the pump. Plump it into the power beyond line from the loader valve to the 3 point hitch. If something goes wrong the relief valve in the loader valve will protect the pump.

I think you would be ok without a power beyond on the splitter valve as long as you only connect it when you are actually using it. I am not a hydraulic expert. Others may have different opinions.

 

[ACDII]

If I only knew what the power beyond line actually is. Have not found details on the loader yet. I also found that the spooler needed would be an open circuit one that allows fluid to flow when in the neutral position. It appears that is how they all are, and some come with a closed loop kit to convert it. After looking it over some more, I think I will pass on trying to use a splitter on the B2410. Storing the 3pt one would be a pain while the self contained one can be wheeled anywhere to store it. I have 3 large horse stalls to store stuff in, hard to get the 3 pt in but the wheeled one would go right in.

 

[Henro]

If I only knew what the power beyond line actually is. Have not found details on the loader yet. I also found that the spooler needed would be an open circuit one that allows fluid to flow when in the neutral position. It appears that is how they all are, and some come with a closed loop kit to convert it. After looking it over some more, I think I will pass on trying to use a splitter on the B2410. Storing the 3pt one would be a pain while the self contained one can be wheeled anywhere to store it. I have 3 large horse stalls to store stuff in, hard to get the 3 pt in but the wheeled one would go right in.

Just for future readers, and you too if you decide you want to add rear remotes to your tractor at some point, it sounds like your B2410 is like my B2910, That cover plate you mentioned, if like my tractor, can be replaced by a different Kubota part, that has two connecting points, so you can continue into the hydraulic circuit though additional valves.

So you get the replacement block, and run two hoses from those two connections, to the input and output connections on you new valve. You need to make sure you get the correct valve to add to the system, as you need one that does not block the circuit when the spools are centered.

You also need to find a point to connect into a return to tank line, for the hydraulic fluid that is taken out of the loop, and used to move a cylinder or two maybe, depending on what you have.

You want the hydraulic loop to be totally open when no function is being used. It is important to understand this.

 

[ACDII]

I snipped out the picture from the service manual on where and what the rears look like

Where the 5 is pointing is where the valve kit mentioned above would be installed. The plumbing in the picture is what I have been trying to locate, but without part numbers, is a bit hard to track down as to everything required. At the rear by the lift arm is where the splitter valve or backhoe lines would connect, and the large bolt beneath the bolted on cover would be the tank return. After looking at cost of some of the parts I did find, I will be better off buying a self contained since adding the above would serve one and only one purpose, so no ROI by adding it.

 

[Henro]

I snipped out the picture from the service manual on where and what the rears look like

View attachment 69524

Where the 5 is pointing is where the valve kit mentioned above would be installed. The plumbing in the picture is what I have been trying to locate, but without part numbers, is a bit hard to track down as to everything required. At the rear by the lift arm is where the splitter valve or backhoe lines would connect, and the large bolt beneath the bolted on cover would be the tank return. After looking at cost of some of the parts I did find, I will be better off buying a self contained since adding the above would serve one and only one purpose, so no ROI by adding it.

Here are a couple images taken from an ancient thread I posted years ago over at TBN.

First shows the replacement block with one of the two connecting points for hoses:

Second give a little better idea of what the block and hose connections look like. The arrow on the top of the block was to remind me which way the hydraulic flow was going:

 

[ACDII]

That helped a lot. I finally located where the cover is. Not easy to see with the wheel on. Now to see if I can find if that part is even available. That one appears not to need a bypass, is that correct?

 

[ACDII]

Found it! $129 in stock.

 

[TheOldHokie]

OK I forgot that I had a service manual for my tractor and did some digging. The rear remote appears to mount under the seat. It is not something on my tractor that I can see, and I can't seem to find the parts required for it. The kit above appears to be what gets plumbed into it.

So instead, if I were to tap into the loader line with a hose with a 90* JIC, run that to the rear with a female quick connect, then another line with a male quick connect, back to the hose with a male JIC and connect that to the loader valve, I should have what I need. This should work provided the spool on the 3pt log splitter has a PB on it, then I just need a third line to connect to the tank.

If the splitter doesn't have a PB spool, then what would I do?

You don't need PB on the log splitter. Just disconnect the PB on the loader valve at the tractor and run it to the IN on the splitter. Then run the OUT from the splitter valve back to the tractor where the loader valve used to be connected. That's all you need. When you disconnect the log splitter you must loop the two hoses together.

Dan

 

[ACDII]

Which one is it then?

Needs a bath, hasn't had one this year.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Which one is it then?

View attachment 69540

Needs a bath, hasn't had one this year.

I only see six hoses. There should be 7. Where is the missing one?

Dan

 

[Deleted member 47704]

I snipped out the picture from the service manual on where and what the rears look like

View attachment 69524

Where the 5 is pointing is where the valve kit mentioned above would be installed. The plumbing in the picture is what I have been trying to locate, but without part numbers, is a bit hard to track down as to everything required. At the rear by the lift arm is where the splitter valve or backhoe lines would connect, and the large bolt beneath the bolted on cover would be the tank return. After looking at cost of some of the parts I did find, I will be better off buying a self contained since adding the above would serve one and only one purpose, so no ROI by adding it.

I went through this recently, the bottom line was a self contained unit. Too much expense in plumbing properly. Not enough flow, the tractor has pressure but flow rate is low, splitter will be sloooowww.

 

[ACDII]

I only see six hoses. There should be 7. Where is the missing one?

Dan

It's under the left hose, if you look at the bottom of the picture you can see the 7th hose. The light in the barn isn't the greatest. I looked through my manuals and found I have the loader one still and it does have information on it. That left hose off the top is the PB one.

If I am understanding the fluid flow correctly, the pressure side, the right bottom hose comes from the pump, the left bottom hose is the tank, the PB line goes back to the fitting and supplies pressure for the 3 point lift cylinder. That rear outlet I found breaks the connection between the PB line and that cylinder, so whatever is connected would need to also be a PB? That means I would also need a third line to the tank.

From what I have been reading, if I connect a center open spool to that outlet, then if I apply pressure to one side of the spool or the other, then there would be no pressure to operate the lift unless the spool has the PB. They don't make it easy.

So the easiest way appears to be breaking the connection from the PB fitting at the loader, run a line to the rear from there, then run another line from the rear that has a fitting that connects to the first one, and then that one connects to the block. If it is disconnected, then the rear lift would not work, but would not cause the pump to overload since the loader valve has a tank dump. Now does a splitter have 2 connections, or 3?

 

[TheOldHokie]

It's under the left hose, if you look at the bottom of the picture you can see the 7th hose. The light in the barn isn't the greatest. I looked through my manuals and found I have the loader one still and it does have information on it. That left hose off the top is the PB one.

If I am understanding the fluid flow correctly, the pressure side, the right bottom hose comes from the pump, the left bottom hose is the tank, the PB line goes back to the fitting and supplies pressure for the 3 point lift cylinder. That rear outlet I found breaks the connection between the PB line and that cylinder, so whatever is connected would need to also be a PB? That means I would also need a third line to the tank.

From what I have been reading, if I connect a center open spool to that outlet, then if I apply pressure to one side of the spool or the other, then there would be no pressure to operate the lift unless the spool has the PB. They don't make it easy.

So the easiest way appears to be breaking the connection from the PB fitting at the loader, run a line to the rear from there, then run another line from the rear that has a fitting that connects to the first one, and then that one connects to the block. If it is disconnected, then the rear lift would not work, but would not cause the pump to overload since the loader valve has a tank dump. Now does a splitter have 2 connections, or 3?

Don't over think this. A splitter valve typically has just an IN and an OUT port. Disconnect loader PB at the point where it comes back to the tractor hydraulic block and re route it to the rear for the implement supply. Then run another hose from there back to the point where you disconnected the loader PB. That will work fine with a typical log splitter valve hoked up and the 3pt will continue to work as normal. When you disconnect the splitter you MUST loop the log splitter outlets together to continue the loop to the 3pt. This is exactly how Kubota plumbed many of their older backhoes. There is usually a relief valve ahead of the loader hydraulic takeoff on the tractor to protect against dead heading the pump. If not the loader relief will.

As mentioned your tractors pump flow is only 4.4GPM so the splitter will be quite slow. I started another thread about using log splitter valves with regen on the extend cycle to help with that problem You can find it here:

Log splitter valves with REGEN


I split a lot of wood with a B7200 @ 4 GPM without the help of REGEN so it works fine just not as fast as a gasoline powered splitter. Adding regen really sped things up.


Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

It's under the left hose, if you look at the bottom of the picture you can see the 7th hose. The light in the barn isn't the greatest. I looked through my manuals and found I have the loader one still and it does have information on it. That left hose off the top is the PB one.

If I am understanding the fluid flow correctly, the pressure side, the right bottom hose comes from the pump, the left bottom hose is the tank, the PB line goes back to the fitting and supplies pressure for the 3 point lift cylinder. That rear outlet I found breaks the connection between the PB line and that cylinder, so whatever is connected would need to also be a PB? That means I would also need a third line to the tank.

From what I have been reading, if I connect a center open spool to that outlet, then if I apply pressure to one side of the spool or the other, then there would be no pressure to operate the lift unless the spool has the PB. They don't make it easy.

So the easiest way appears to be breaking the connection from the PB fitting at the loader, run a line to the rear from there, then run another line from the rear that has a fitting that connects to the first one, and then that one connects to the block. If it is disconnected, then the rear lift would not work, but would not cause the pump to overload since the loader valve has a tank dump. Now does a splitter have 2 connections, or 3?

In my previous post I told you to not over think this and found myself guilty of doing exactly that with my advice. I get carried away sometimes and need to KISS. Here is the log splitter hookup I used for a couple decades on my B7200. It is nothing more than a quick coupler installed on the PB port of the loader valve. When I want to use the splitter I shut the tractor off., disconnect the coupler and plug the two couplers on the log splitter hoses into the two halves. Done and ready to split. Just start the tractor, pick up the splitter and go to the worksite. When finished shut the tractor off, disconnect the log splitter, and plug the two haves on the tractor back together. Total cost for the log splitter outlets about $15.

Dan

 

[ACDII]

Here are a couple images taken from an ancient thread I posted years ago over at TBN.

First shows the replacement block with one of the two connecting points for hoses:

View attachment 69525

Second give a little better idea of what the block and hose connections look like. The arrow on the top of the block was to remind me which way the hydraulic flow was going:

View attachment 69526 View attachment 69525 View attachment 69526

I got the block, and have some ideas on how to connect it up. What did you connect up to it? Did you add a couple spools to it? I saw a video by TTWT where there is an aftermarket kit that connects to power beyond and uses electric spools. That gives me an option to add remotes in addition to PB for the splitter. Can add top n tilt down the road as well as operate the 1209 MoCo.

 

[Henro]

I got the block, and have some ideas on how to connect it up. What did you connect up to it? Did you add a couple spools to it? I saw a video by TTWT where there is an aftermarket kit that connects to power beyond and uses electric spools. That gives me an option to add remotes in addition to PB for the splitter. Can add top n tilt down the road as well as operate the 1209 MoCo.

Yes, I put four rear remotes on the tractor back then. Use them mainly for top and tilt, but I have two tilt cylinders, so that gives me one extra that I have never used so far.

I bought the valve sections and end sections and put the valve assembly together myself. Actually quite easy to do. BUT you need to get the right valve sections. I forget the correct term for them, but you want the hydraulic circuit through the valve sections to be open, and pass fluid freely, until you move a lever and divert some of the flow, which will find it way back to the hydraulic tank independent of the primary loop.

So you need to find a place to return hydraulic fluid to the tank from the valve section. Was not that hard to do for me, and likely not hard for you either. I have a detailed thread that is probably about 18 years old over at TBN. I could find the link and you can check it out if interested. Titled something like "That never ending T&T path" or something similar, if you just want to find it yourself.

Nothing there about log splitters though...

Edit: I think I read somewhere that if you have a rear remote and want to use it for a log splitter, you can do this by using a bungee cord or something similar, to hold the lever down, thereby diverting hydraulic flow to the splitter valve and back to the tank via I suppose a different connection to the return to tank circuit. Never did it, never will, so my memory could be incorrect on this...