B219 loader cylinder rebuild
- Thread starter Turk999
- Start date
I just wanted to give everyone an update on the cylinder rebuilds. They are both leaking again. Not very much but still leaking.
But on a better note all the new line connections are working great.
But on a better note all the new line connections are working great.
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Big Kahuna
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Equipment
Kubota 2000 L3010 HST with Loader ,1992 B7100HST , 1979 B6100E & 2007 F2880
Lil Foot
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
I have yet to dive into my B219 cylinders, (they need it) but I did rebuild my B670 backhoe. It leaked almost a quart a day before I started, (all original from 1978 or 1979) but now leaks maybe a drop or two per day when sitting, and maybe 4 or 5 drops per day under use. I attribute this to the cylinders & rams being both worn (under & over sized) and the sealing surfaces having micro scratches, scoring, & pitting from 35+ years of use & abuse. This is supported by the fact that the worst leaks are from the swing cylinders, which were in the worst condition & saw the most dirt & water. I have rebuilt hydraulics in class 100 & class 10 clean rooms with ZERO leakage, so I doubt it's my technique. I expect the cylinders on my B219 will leak a similar amount after I rebuild them, hopefully to a much smaller degree then they do now.
Someone once told me "It ain't a tractor if it ain't leakin…."
I expect the cylinders on my B219 will leak a similar amount after I rebuild them, hopefully to a much smaller degree then they do now.Someone once told me "It ain't a tractor if it ain't leakin…."
Big Kahuna
Member
Equipment
Kubota 2000 L3010 HST with Loader ,1992 B7100HST , 1979 B6100E & 2007 F2880
Lil foot your right, and a couple of drops is way better than a puddle, I should have clarified that I'm still better than before!
Big Kahuna
Big Kahuna
I just rebuilt my lift cylinder on a b205 Dozer blade last week and I believe they are the same cylinder. I noticed you had a left over O ring. Are you sure you that you didn't miss one? Seeing that you purchased a kit it should be correct. I'm guessing is a small diameter ring that you will find inside one of the pistons. It's tough to see and remove so it can be easily missed. My cylinder was a bear to get apart (almost 40 years of concrete like grime holding the cap in), it took a good week of soaking in Marvels Mystery Oil and a sister sledge to break it free. As much of a pain it is to take it back apart that may be your issue. I've read many times that the inside seals wear more than the outside seals. Good luck!I just wanted to give everyone an update on the cylinder rebuilds. They are both leaking again. Not very much but still leaking.
But on a better note all the new line connections are working great.
I just double checked and they are the same kit so look into that extra o ring that is probably your problem.
It was a small orang but I replaced the one inside. I replaced every one that I took out. All I can say is they held up great until I started to dig. They both leak worse now then before I worked on them. I ended up ordering new ones. I had one hell of a time finding them. But I was able to get very very close. If they work correctly I'll post the part number and info for everyone. At 197 each if they work I'll be happy.
Update.....The 2 new cylinders came into. I unpacked one and took it out to the tractor to just look and compare. It seems that it is just about a prefect match. At least by eye. Hoping to install them this weekend. I'll du another update after they are on and tested. Anyways here is a pic of the spec sticker on them. And here is where I ordered them: Grainger
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
In the future check Baileys, save yourself a ton of $$$!
Grainger is really expensive on parts.
If you can might want to return them and get these at $139.00 so they would save you $116.00 for the pair.
http://www.baileynet.com/Maxim-3000-PSI-Welded-Crosstubes_15
or EBay at $131.85 and free shipping, so a savings of $130.30 for the pair.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXIM-288-3...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item4ad88cd44c
Grainger is really expensive on parts.
If you can might want to return them and get these at $139.00 so they would save you $116.00 for the pair.
http://www.baileynet.com/Maxim-3000-PSI-Welded-Crosstubes_15
or EBay at $131.85 and free shipping, so a savings of $130.30 for the pair.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXIM-288-3...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item4ad88cd44c
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Jumping in on an old thread here but had a related question. I have a B219 loader, 1 of the cylinders is leaking and worsening by the day. It happens to be the same cylinder that the previous owner recently had rebuilt (within the last 12 months). Given a) the cylinder was recently rebuilt and b) I have or can acquire the necessary o-rings for a few bucks ...should I spend $20+shipping for the kit or will I likely be able to make it work with just new o-rings?
Edit: for clarity it looks like the leak is around the center of the shaft, I Dont notice the leak much during operation but it leaves a sizeable puddle when parked (all cylinders retracted and loader on the ground)
Also, I am unsure what kind of oil the previous owner used in the loader, I have been using UDT and the leak seems to have started roughly around the time I added UDT. Could this be related or coincidence?
Edit: for clarity it looks like the leak is around the center of the shaft, I Dont notice the leak much during operation but it leaves a sizeable puddle when parked (all cylinders retracted and loader on the ground)
Also, I am unsure what kind of oil the previous owner used in the loader, I have been using UDT and the leak seems to have started roughly around the time I added UDT. Could this be related or coincidence?
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I think your better off just buying the kit. That way you will have every seal and new lock rings to rebuild it, no guess work involved. For the oil I can't help you there but there are plenty of people on here that are very knowledgable with everything kubota. Here is a break down for your cylinder in case you don't have one. The gentleman who started this thread didn't have any luck in his rebuild. I did, and believe they are the same, at least the part numbers are (figure 8). Just make sure to clean the end of the barrel with some emery cloth and lube everything nicely with some ATF or Marvels Oil (something nice and thin) so the new o rings don't get pinched. Seeing that your cylinder was just apart not too long ago, it should come apart fairly easy for you. If you have any extra parts left over I would double triple check the parts breakdown. Good luck!
If you have difficulty finding parts or are not confident about rebuilding consider contacting a local hydraulic repair shop. They can get the job done and you just have to install the cyl.
Check prices quotes first, but I can have them get the components much cheaper than anyplace else, and have them in 2 days.
Check prices quotes first, but I can have them get the components much cheaper than anyplace else, and have them in 2 days.
OldeEnglish - Many thanks! I wasn't aware that level of detail was available on the seals and o-rings. Given that all of the specs are provided I am guessing it would be much cheaper and faster to do as D2Cat suggests and go to a hydraulic service/supply shop and buy the seals rather than the Kubota kits.
kubotasam
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Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
You might be surprised at the price from Kubota. I did mine last year and the kits from Messicks were only $17.00 a piece.
I priced them, 4 kits at $18.89/each plus shipping, Total roughly $92. I think that is really steep for a pile of o-rings and a few oil seals. Don't get me wrong, I might end up paying that much but I will explore other routes first.
You definitely can't go wrong with bringing them to a professional shop, if they fix them they have to guarantee them. Although, I've read many threads of guys complaining about the hydro shops stating that the rods were bent and they need to completely rebuilt, $$$. They ended up doing it themselves or took it elsewhere and had success. Trust me I'm not much of a tractor mechanic but I was able to rebuild mine. The hardest part is getting everything separated from the cylinder barrel, especially the first lock ring and pulling everything apart. Hydro shops have pulling tables, I'm not so fortunate and actually thought of chaining it to a tree to pull it apart. I had to soak mine with marvels for a good week to loosen up the 30 year old concrete like substance, and make a set of snap ring pliers out of a pair if needle nose. Once it's apart it's only one nut to remove all of the pieces. Take your time, oil everything when replacing the seals, and double check your parts break down. I wouldn't trust that the owner before you rebuilt it correctly if it's leaking again within a year, it just doesn't make any sense. Who knows there may be something else going on, but you will be surprised how easy it is to rebuild it. There are plenty of videos online that could give you a little guidance on how to do it. I think I watched one from The RedNeck Mechanic on YouTube, haha! Good luck!
Thanks for the tips, I will almost certainly do the work myself. On your previous post, I had not seen "figure 9 angling" and the associated wiper seals and packing before, it was my understanding that all 4 cylinders used the same seal kit. Does figure 9 apply?
That diagram is from my original B205 Dozer blade manual. It is a little confusing but just pay attention to figure 8, disregard the angle cylinder even though they mix the part lists. The rebuild kit number matches the part number for your cylinder, but they may be different length in stoke which doesn't matter.