B219 hydraulic pump failed. Need help!

[ShaunRH]

The chain coupling joints are torque joints it keeps the pump from ever being solidly connected to the engine, allows for some "give".

The chain joints consist of 2 separate sprockets and a double roller chain that connects the 2 sprockets together.
...

I love this site, learn something new all the time. That is cool and I'll have to keep that in mind for such a joint if I ever need one in the future! Thanks Wolfman.

It also makes the issue much easier. Disassemble the front joint, take the sprocket to a machine shop, give them the specs for the new shaft and key and you're done... so I'm totally with NIWolfman there, easy peasy... I'd get the new pump first and take that to the shop with the sprocket...

 

[seanbarr]

Well, got some progress...

Thanks to all who provided your inputs, it certainly narrowed down some choices.

I was able to source a replacement chain shaft coupling hub (that's the official name ) to change the shaft size input from 9/16". I grabbed a 5/8" shaft at Brown's Bearing in Spokane and went home last Friday to start shopping for a pump but it turned out that I really needed a 1/2" because the pump size I needed only provides the 1/2" shaft in the SAE AA 2 bolt configuration that the B7100 requires.

Looking into it deeper, I wanted to really find out what the original pump size is and I found the formula to calculate it "in reverse" so to speak. It involved taking apart the pump and taking 3 measurements inside. After calculations, I found that the pump displacement is 0.275. Pretty stoked now that I can source the right pump and found one that would fit the bill, only a smidgen bigger with a 0.31 displacement. I'm wondering if going to the next size up at 0.37 would bog down the engine. The max RPM is 4,000 (rated for 2,000) and from what I understand, the B7100 with it's D750 engine puts out 2,900 RPM.

It's here:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...cu-in-DYNAMIC-GPF1051PA-HYD-PUMP-9-7767-D.axd

The gear itself is a "4012" gear, I have one with a 1/2" shaft keyway coming from Brown's bearing and I'll be returning the 5/8" for it. Cost is only $11.75 plus $9 ish for shipping. The chain isn't proprietary as a quick search on the internet shows many various chain combination.

The only question that remains is if the shaft length combination will still be ok as the new sprocket is a little longer than the original and the pump shaft is shorter. I may need to get "squiggly" with it so I should know once the two arrives.

Pics will follow, plus a write up that includes all the parts I used for it.

It should be interesting how the loader & tractor will react with the pump that's slightly bigger than the original.

Think I'm wise in picking the 0.31 pump size?

 

[seanbarr]

It worked!

Got the pump installed with a few modifications. I "notched" the front to accommodate the pump and had to switch the mounting plate on the other side due to the shorter shaft.

This image shows the old 9/16" sprocket with the 1/2" installed.

A few more shots...

As I expected, the pump seemed to perform better than the original and pressure was strong. Had no problems lifting the front of the B7100 off the ground using the down-curl of the bucket at ground level. Engine never bogged but I'll have to put some load to see how it performs.

As you may have noticed, I forgot to order a 90° intake fitting instead of straight so I couldn't install the front guard. I may just drill a hole on the left side (with some wiggle room) as I never liked the loop from the suction hose. Same may go for the output side but use a 45° fitting instead.

Now I can breath easier as using this to clear snow really helps! No snow yet but I'm ready for it.

Thanks to all your input! Holler if you got any questions.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Grumpy560]

Now this is a job well done and thank you for posting pictures of your completed project.

I do have a question though. Before I disassembled my B7100 for mechanical repairs and a fresh coat of paint I could only open the hood about half way because the hydraulic lines were in the way, I have the same B-219 loader.

Would it be possible to use another 90 degree elbow and turn the fittings down and go under the frame and then over to the side with an additional protective plate underneath.

I assume this would allow the hood to be opened all the way thus having more room to perform service/repairs in the engine bay. I'm 6'5 and I found it to be a headache to not have the hood open all the way.

 

[Jim L.]

Thanks for taking the time to document this fix.

Thanks to the contributors for educating us.

 

[seanbarr]

Now this is a job well done and thank you for posting pictures of your completed project.

I do have a question though. Before I disassembled my B7100 for mechanical repairs and a fresh coat of paint I could only open the hood about half way because the hydraulic lines were in the way, I have the same B-219 loader.

Would it be possible to use another 90 degree elbow and turn the fittings down and go under the frame and then over to the side with an additional protective plate underneath.

I assume this would allow the hood to be opened all the way thus having more room to perform service/repairs in the engine bay. I'm 6'5 and I found it to be a headache to not have the hood open all the way.

It's possible, of course. But you'd need to protect the fittings from being damaged by objects underneath. Have you considered rerouting the hoses along the support arm like mine shown on the last picture? The old setup did run the same way, along the outside of the support arm, not the inside like yours which doesn't take too much to imagine that it blocks the hood from being fully open.

Personally, I would just loop them up and over the bracket and along the outside of the support arm to keep things out of the way from the bottom.

 

[Lil Foot]

I do have a question though. Before I disassembled my B7100 for mechanical repairs and a fresh coat of paint I could only open the hood about half way because the hydraulic lines were in the way, I have the same B-219 loader.
Would it be possible to use another 90 degree elbow and turn the fittings down and go under the frame and then over to the side with an additional protective plate underneath.
I assume this would allow the hood to be opened all the way thus having more room to perform service/repairs in the engine bay. I'm 6'5 and I found it to be a headache to not have the hood open all the way.

My tractor isn't here for me to check, but correct me if I'm wrong- I thought the supports for the FEL, not the hoses, stop the hood from opening all the way? Can someone verify this one way or the other? I'd be tickled if I could re-route hoses to gain more hood clearance/opening.

 

[seanbarr]

My tractor isn't here for me to check, but correct me if I'm wrong- I thought the supports for the FEL, not the hoses, stop the hood from opening all the way? Can someone verify this one way or the other? I'd be tickled if I could re-route hoses to gain more hood clearance/opening.

It looks like it does but it stops short of it. The actual stops are in the hinges, I know mine does. So if you couldn't open your fully past 45 degrees (more like 50), then you can rework the obstructions.

 

[Lil Foot]

It looks like it does but it stops short of it. The actual stops are in the hinges, I know mine does. So if you couldn't open your fully past 45 degrees (more like 50), then you can rework the obstructions.

Thanks, I will check it out at the next opportunity.

 

[ShaunBlake]

... my B7100 ... only open the hood about half way because the hydraulic lines were in the way, I have the same B-219 loader.

... I thought the supports for the FEL, not the hoses, stop the hood... I'd be tickled if I could re-route hoses to gain more hood clearance/opening.

I'm sure you folks have resolved this, so I'm hoping to pick up some tips from your experience. My B6100 w/B219 has the same issue. One of the hoses was replaced after everything was painted orange, and the new hose is an inch or two too short -- the hood hits the hoses, not the stops. I'm not even 6', and I think the hood constriction bothers me as much as G560.

How did you guys solve the problem?

It's possible, of course. But you'd need to protect the fittings from being damaged by objects underneath. Have you considered rerouting the hoses along the support arm like mine shown on the last picture? The old setup did run the same way, along the outside of the support arm, not the inside like yours which doesn't take too much to imagine that it blocks the hood from being fully open.

Personally, I would just loop them up and over the bracket and along the outside of the support arm to keep things out of the way from the bottom.

Sean, I'm confused, and your pics (and the big Grumpy guy's) seem to be routing the hoses over and under the arms, not inside and outside. Furthermore, aren't your hoses vulnerable to debris that you run over because they are below the arms?

Finally, a question for anybody/everybody: is this re-routing we're talking about going to require new hoses? Frankly, I've been avoid letting this annoy me too much because I didn't want to fork over a chunk of change for new hoses, and I'm averse to breaking the system and starting a never-ending chain of leaks and failures.

 

[Grumpy560]

The lines on mine were replaced a long time ago and the high side hose was too short in my opinion. When I removed the pump with lines still attached I could open the hood until the hinges hit the frame.

I didn't want to deal with any hydro leaks so I left the pump hooked up when I removed the loader assembly. If you want to re route the lines to get them out of the way then yes you are going to shell out some $$$ for that. As for me, I'm not going too do anything with those hoses until one of them springs a leak.

 

[Lil Foot]

My tractor isn't here for me to check, but correct me if I'm wrong- I thought the supports for the FEL, not the hoses, stop the hood from opening all the way? Can someone verify this one way or the other? I'd be tickled if I could re-route hoses to gain more hood clearance/opening.

Finally got to visit my little beastie, and the hood is stopped at the hinges, not the FEL supports or the hoses.

 

[Jlhsr84]

I need to do this same swap. Do you have a Parts list? Or if anyone has found a line on some OEM pumps. Thanks in advance

 

[85Hokie]

I need to do this same swap. Do you have a Parts list? Or if anyone has found a line on some OEM pumps. Thanks in advance

That post started about 4+ years ago and last post was 3+ years ago......
Might be helpful to private message any of them and see if they could come up with the info for you.

Click one their name....
Send private message.....
see if they respond

 

[seanbarr]

From surpluscenter.com...

1 9-7767-D 0.31 cu in DYNAMIC GPF1051PA HYD PUMP
1 9-4604-12-8 3/4 HOSEBARB TO SAE 8M ADAPTER 4604-12-8
1 9-6815-6-6 SAE 6M TO SAE 6F 90 ELBOW

Keep in mind that I did not buy the 90 degree fitting for the intake side at the time I bought all three. I would have bought a 3/4" hosebarb to SAE 8M if one exists but you may need to get a street SAE 8M fitting in addition to the list.

The 4012 sprocket with 1/2" shaft was obtained from Browns Bearing. They supplied me with a special "stepper" key to go with the sprocket to accommodate for the differences in size so tell the shop that you want a 4012 roller sprocket that would fit a 1/2" shaft with a 1/8" keyway. If ALL possible, try to find a sproket that is the same length as the original so that the pump mounts at the same spot.

Upon further thinking, you may try using an adapter to reuse the original sprocket. I would try that first before getting a new 4012 sprocket.

Best of luck!

 

[Jlhsr84]

You're awesome! Thank you sir!

 

[JosephGozo]

Hello, I am working on the pump to engine link at the moment.

I was going for one chain coupling on the pump's end as in the picture. The bush was kindly splined by a local machinist (post-Operation) and nearing retirement (at about 160Euros). I had to leave the tractor at his shop and he did it in 8 hours! He made it a tight fit according to match the pre existing wear on the crank.

My friend who has a metal shop later told me why didn't you ask him to make a foot long bush - reason being it would have cost the same and I would have ended with plenty of spare ones!!!

Anyhow I am not quite happy with going on with just one coupling . Given that
1) it is too expensive for me to get splines in a new coupling
2) and judging by these photos above the splined sprocket looks too short, offering lesser spline contact on shaft

I am considering having the current splined bush machined according to this diagram and welding the machined sprocket to the very edge. The welded end should slide in flush to the crank pulley securing nut. I need to have that side recessed to let it clear the un-splined part of the crank shaft and also prevent splines narrowing in due to the welding heat. I am worried about the shaft sprocket because the material around the teeth will be heavily reduced.

I have no engineering degree... opinions/thoughts?