B2150 spun drive shaft splines

[dist3allaround]

I have a B2150 HST that I have achieved spinning the splines on the front drive shaft. The splines that I am talking about are the ones coming out of the front axle that the front yoke slides onto and then the drive shaft connects to via the U-Joint.

The problem I have is how t dissemble this correctly. If anyone could give me some pointers that would be great!
Thank you.

 

[Bluegill]

Welcome.

I did the same thing on our old L3750. The front axle on it is like a 4wd truck axle. Not sure how yours is? I had to replace the ring & pinion gear set, as the splines are on the pinion gear. Not too hard a job, but parts were costly.

 

[lsmurphy]

What Bluegill said.

You'll need a manual or at least a parts diagram and numbers list. You'll have to disassemble the entire axle to get to the R&P. You'll need to read up on setting the backlash or pay someone else to do it.

My guess is $500 or close to it, also check the yoke on the drive shaft or you may end up wearing out the new one too.

 

[lsmurphy]

http://www.wengers.com/parts/Farm-T...ASSEMBLY-WITH-RING---PINION/01-6641899220.htm

Used at $400

 

[dist3allaround]

Here are a couple pictures of the axle in question.
Thanks lsmurphy for the link, I saw that last night while researching. I wonder if I can find just the pinion somewhere....
Any suggestions on taking the drive line out and getting the front yoke off the pinion splines in order to determine if the problem is in the splines or the yoke.

 

[lsmurphy]

Under the tunnel at the trans is an inspection hole. Drive out the spring pin of the forward yoke. I drilled a hole in the tunnel to get at the rearward yoke spring pin and I drove it out. Once the entire yoke assembly is lose and dropped from the trans output stub you can pull it off the drive shaft, now the drive shaft can be pulled out of the slip yoke at the front axle. Now drive the pin out of the yoke/pinion.

Might as well replace your Ujoints while you are at it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If it does turn out to be the pinion that the splines are bad on, you will need to change them both, ring and pinion, they are a matched set and just replacing one or the other can have some really bad end results.

 

[dist3allaround]

Ok, is a spring pin the same as a roll pin? That is what I call the pin going through the shaft that I see. Just want to make sure there is not a different kind of pin I am not seeing.
Damn, on the match set. That was what I figured, I knew that was how it is in vehicles.

 

[lsmurphy]

Ok, is a spring pin the same as a roll pin? That is what I call the pin going through the shaft that I see. Just want to make sure there is not a different kind of pin I am not seeing.
Damn, on the match set. That was what I figured, I knew that was how it is in vehicles.

It's a roll pin.......sorry..........


You'll need roll pin punches too........otherwise you'll bust out the center and you'll have a bitch of a time.

 

[lsmurphy]

If it does turn out to be the pinion that the splines are bad on, you will need to change them both, ring and pinion, they are a matched set and just replacing one or the other can have some really bad end results.

If it truly is............weld that sucker up......what do you have to lose? Nothing.

Yoke and pinion will need to be replaced, be it today or three years from now.

 

[dist3allaround]

Hmm... I will have to take a look to see if it really "needs" to be a slip. Maybe I can get out of THIS situation for free basically. And then deal with it in the future when something else goes wrong.... lol

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Another option would be to drill a hole threw the yoke and pinion and put a grade 8 bolt threw it to keep it from spinning on the shaft.

 

[dist3allaround]

Yeah, I was thinking about that this evening. I wonder how hard of metal the pinion is? I will need to drill the hole with my handheld drill so that I do not have to remove the pinion. hmmm.... I will be attempting to fix it on Saturday.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Another thought for you, if the shaft is too hard would be to drill holes threw yoke and dimple pinion shaft then remove yoke and tap it for a set of set screws to set into the dimples on the shaft.

 

[ipz2222]

I can pretty much guarentee you won't be drilling any hole thru that shaft. It's HARD.

 

[haveissues]

I would suspect if the spline end of the pinion is hardened correctly you are more likely to need a yolk.

 

[Bluegill]

I tried to drill the pinion on the L3750, no go! It is too hard and would need a carbide bit which doesn't work so good in a hand drill. Welding on harden high carbon steel isn't a good idea either. I bit the bullet and bought a new ring and pinion set, new drive shaft, couplers, seals, pinion bearings, etc... Bout $1200.

The reason mine failed was too much loader work for too many years with no counter ballast on the 3pt hitch. Had the front end down in a hole and tried to back out with a full bucket. No traction on the back tires, so all the load was on the front axle. There was already a lot of wear on the parts, or it wouldn't have stripped, but it all could have been avoided...

 

[lsmurphy]

The forward yoke, the one mounted to the pinion, should have a pin through it. If it does, it's sheared.

Remove yoke, clean yoke, clean stub. Cut bolt to fit flush with yoke, install yoke, insert bolt, tack weld bold to yoke. Weld center of yoke to shaft, reinstall ujoint.


That's what I would do if the yoke is truly spun on the pinion and I did not have the funds to replace.


You might also consider looking for a used front axle......might be cheaper than parts.

 

[Bluegill]

I would suspect if the spline end of the pinion is hardened correctly you are more likely to need a yolk.

The pinion is harden correctly, but so is the yoke. Over time the splines get worn and will fail under the 'right' conditions.

 

[lsmurphy]

I tried to drill the pinion on the L3750, no go! It is too hard and would need a carbide bit which doesn't work so good in a hand drill. Welding on harden high carbon steel isn't a good idea either. I bit the bullet and bought a new ring and pinion set, new drive shaft, couplers, seals, pinion bearings, etc... Bout $1200.

The reason mine failed was too much loader work for too many years with no counter ballast on the 3pt hitch. Had the front end down in a hole and tried to back out with a full bucket. No traction on the back tires, so all the load was on the front axle. There was already a lot of wear on the parts, or it wouldn't have stripped, but it all could have been avoided...

Understood, but again, will cost him nothing to try and he might get a couple of years of light use out of it.