B2150 fuel filter replacement.....need help again, thanks.

[walkerheaders]

I wasnt careful enough, nor paying enough attention when I started it after fuel filter replacement. ran fine for about 30 seconds then died. I have searched here first, then around the web. still not certain how to get it running again.
It's been mine since 1993 and 1600 hours later, I still have troubles. I change the oil every hundred and the fuel filter every 50 hours. I have always had some trouble, but never had this fail to re-start.
I am unshure of the exact procedure, and my shop manual is not much help.
Do I open the air vent cock while cranking it?
Should I have the throttle all open or at idle while cranking?
I cracked all the lines at the injectors like the service guy Vic video and got fuel but that is a different system than the 4 cyl 2150.
I could really use a run down of the steps in order and would appreciate it very much. I promise to return with the results.
This has me quite bothered for now. Thanks for any help I can get.

PS: it was running fine until I decided to change the filter.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes you need to bleed the air on the side of the injection pump then bleed the air on each injector.

 

[walkerheaders]

there is an air bleed on top of the filter assembly, there is another on the side of the injector pump. do I have these open while cranking it? thanks.

 

[Russell King]

The basic process is to start nearest the fuel tank and eliminate air toward the injectors.

The vent on the fuel filter should be below the fuel level so just crack that open and let some fuel run out until there is no air in the filter. As I understand it you do NOT want to crank it or air will be sucked in.
Close that vent.

From here on it would be better to have a helper cranking so you can see what is going on. Also make sure that the tractor is in neutral and the brakes are set so it won't move.

Open the vent at the pump. Open the compression release mechanism (assuming that you have one). Crank the engine until fluid is spurting from the vent. Close the vent. Do not use the starter too long at one time, and let it cool off between cranking sessions. You probably won't need to crank it more than 30 seconds or so.

Go to one injector, and crack the line a little at the tube to the injector. I don't think it would hurt to have the throttle wide open, but also don't see that it is needed. Crank the engine again until there are few to no bubbles seen, then tighten the nut back up at the injector.

Repeat for the other injectors.

Set the throttle back to idle, if needed.

Try to start. May run rough at first but then smooth out.

 

[Wild and Free]

On my B2150 I have only ever just cracked the valve on top of the fuel filter housing after the filter change and then she fires right up. Never had an issue where I had to bleed any injector lines, since the filter is lower than the tank level it has always self primed the filter and fired right up.

 

[walkerheaders]

Thanks guys,
I have never had this much trouble either. I'll tackle it when I get home. maybe from sitting all night, it'll help some. I'll post when I figure this out. I read the sequence for the 2150 somewhere and cant remember or find it again. worked like a charm last time. I WILL write it down inside the hood when I learn it.

 

[walkerheaders]

I appreciate everybody's help. I got home and hooked up a remote start button. It absolutely would not prime up the injectors.
I suppose I will never know the real problem, but, as suggested here...I started at the fuel filter.
pulled the hose from the tank, good there.
I loosened the bowl nut and let fuel run out,
I vented the fuel filter,
pulled the line to the lift pump...good
pulled the line from the lift pump, weak at first then stronger as I cranked it.
I opened the vent cock and removed the hose to witness fuel coming out.
all of this was with the injector nuts cracked.
finally I began to see bubbling at the injectors and it finally was running clear fuel no bubbles.
Then it fired up the next time I hit the glow plugs and cranked it over.
I find it hard to believe that disturbing those hoses had anything to do with it....
I dont know, but all is good for now.
Looks like I should replace the fuel hoses when it warms up. they are hardened, but I was frustrated.
thanks again, Bob

 

[walkerheaders]

Diagram from kubota WSM on the 2150 fuel system. feel free to share.

 

[SteveF]

I have to believe bleeding the injectors was the coup de gras. That is the final point before ignition but it is possible that there was air present in the lines that had not worked its way up to the injectors first time you bled them.

Seems to me that if the lines are dry rotted, you will experience the problem if you let her set a while and the try to start.

 

[Orange Tractors]

It takes a surprisingly small amount of air in the fuel injection system to cause problems with a diesel engine. Some times you get lucky and get the air out easily, sometimes the amount of air bled out is so small that you don't notice it; leaving you wondering why it all of a sudden starts correctly, when it didn't even act like it was trying to fire thirty seconds before.

Glad it started for you,

Robert

 

[walkerheaders]

I had to come back to this post to remember the procedure. I finally did it without any hiccups or problems. the B2150 has two vent cocks and it goes like this:
Shut off fuel petcock, remove and clean bowl, reassemble.
Open fuel petcock and filter housing vent. wait some time for it to fill up.
Close filter housing vent, Open vent on pump.
Start engine, bring RPM's up some and run 60 seconds.
Close vent on pump and replace body side panel.

sounds and IS pretty simple. I did it wrong 20 years and had problems. this one went flawless, so I thought I had better write it down. I hope this helps.

 

[beachmissions]

I just changed my fuel filter on my B2150 as follows: I shut off fuel cock, unscrewed the filter ring and drop the filter housing down and pulled off my filter...cleaned the bowl and "O" ring ..re-installed everything leaving the large filter bowl nut loose I opened the fuel cock and refilled the bowl and allowed the fuel to run out from under the loose filter bowl nut. Tightened the nut ..wipe off everything and started my tractor...everything was fine, ran great.

 

[furbody]

Yes you need to bleed the air on the side of the injection pump then bleed the air on each injector.

I’m having similar issues with a 95 2150. Tractor started having issues a few months ago, so I installed new filter, didn’t work then I pulled fuel line loose at filter assembly, and no fuel. I assumed it’s a gravity flow system so I back blew through it still no fuel, I then disconnected the metal line underneath, from rubber line coming from tank and fuel just qushed out, so I back blew through metal line. Hooked it all back up and still no fuel at the filter. So I hooked it up and tractor ran great. But today I’m back to loss of power and then dying fuel filter clean. Is this a gravity flow fuel system to the pump, or do I possibly have a dirty tank new fuel filter showed no issues of dirty fuel, after using tractor for about 10 hrs.

 

[BadDog]

It's gravity flow.

I just had my tank of fuel "go bad" during a long storage. The bottom of the tank had a 1/4" of "asphaltene" sludge mixed with rust and possible biological growth. Like cold tar. I had already cranked and run it before realizing the problem, and that contaminated the line, the filter, and collapsed the filter. It was pretty bad.

New filter, cleaned lines, cleaned tank (for over a week), got it back together, cranked and ran good, then lost power, and died. Fuel bowl wasn't getting fuel. With bowl off, open valve and it should run steady. Chased it all the way back to the tank. That little dongle at the bottom that the tube goes on had apparently not participated in the cleaning, and whatever was inside essentially became a valve and cut off flow.

Emptied tank again (from the top with xfer pump), worked the bent nipple with wires and lacquer thinner (BTW, best thing to cut asphaltene buildup) and eventually wadding with a cord (kinda like cleaning a gun). Reinstall, refill, and all is good in the world again.

 

[furbody]

I’m having similar issues with a 95 2150. Tractor started having issues a few months ago, so I installed new filter, didn’t work then I pulled fuel line loose at filter assembly, and no fuel. I assumed it’s a gravity flow system so I back blew through it still no fuel, I then disconnected the metal line underneath, from rubber line coming from tank and fuel just qushed out, so I back blew through metal line. Hooked it all back up and still no fuel at the filter. So I hooked it up and tractor ran great. But today I’m back to loss of power and then dying fuel filter clean. Is this a gravity flow fuel system to the pump, or do I possibly have a dirty tank new fuel filter showed no issues of dirty fuel, after using tractor for about 10 hrs.

ok confirmed clog line now I have fuel running tractor won’t start I’m suspecting a bad pump, I tried to bled lines at the cylinders and just a dribble of fuel came out. Would pulling the fuel line at pump confirm It’s not a bad pump