B2150 engine won't turn over

[DougCabinCreek]

Replaced battery, made sure connections were good .. nothing when key turned
Need to start diagnosing. Any one have an process/procedure. Here are my thoughts
1. By pass key switch to see if can engage starter (not worried about glow plugs yet)
2. If can't, investigate transmission disengage pedal sensor (not sure what this pedal is called, but hopefully you know what i mean)

Not sure what #3 would be
Doug

 

[100 td]

Prior history, when why how did it happen, what lead up to it.

Replaced battery, made sure connections were good .. nothing when key turned

Was the new battery fully charged and tested. Have the opposite ends of the main battery cables at starter and frame/ground been cleaned/checked?
check the fusible link near starter.

1. By pass key switch to see if can engage starter

If starter cranks using this method, check fusible link and all safety switches.

 

[DougCabinCreek]

100 Td - Prior history: Have been bush hogging field a few days before. Parked (outside) .. When I went to start it, nothing.

As background, we have had torrential downpours .. dont think that could be related, but its contextual info.

I figured it was the battery, so I put a trickle charger on (small one I use for my UTV). When I checked the next day, still would not start. I examined the charger and noticed it was not making great connection to the exension cord. Rectified and came back the next day, no difference. Got my standard battery charger out, and put that on it (I was being lazy with the small trickle charger). No difference. Replaced the battery. Still will not start.

The symptoms are when I turn the ingnition key, I get dash lights (power, glow plug). After waiting a minute, when I turn it to start, the dash indicator lights dim, but nothing .. the starter is not being engaged, but power is being consumed somewhere or these lights would not dim

Found a fuse box with two 15amp fuses. One was bad. Replaced it, now my lights work again (not that I have needed this).

Today, I hosed the tractor off really good so I can start exploring. Focused 1st on safety switches. Only seems to be one on the clutch. Seems to work, but I applied some light oil to improve its function (which it did). There is no seat safety switch (evidenced by NO electrical wires). I expected to find a safety switch on the accelerator, but cant find anything (again looking for electric wire).

Confirmed this tractor has a dynamo -vs- an alternator (note that I expect this to be the problem, but might help me navigate parts diagrams).

I really dont believe its the starter as it does not seem to be engaged when I try to start. I noticed the fuel shutoff does not retract very well. I will ll apply some light oil to improve its function, but I think all this does is shutoff the fuel pump. The engine would not start if this were malfunctioning, but the starter is not cranking. During my last diagnostic run, the fuel pump shutoff is activating and de-activating when the ingintion is turned on/off (Ill put the fuel shutoff/pump aside for now.)

I hold the ingnition key on for a minute, then see if the glow plugs are warm, they are. This seems to rule out ingnition switch.

When I remove the fusible link, I get no dash indicator lights with the ignition. I dont have a meter (need to replace a missing one), so I cant see what the voltage is being presented to the fusible link, but its clear its working. (When I plug the link back in, I get dash indicator lights again).

Are their other safety switches I am missing? I am thinking not. The dimming of the dash indicator lights when I try to start indicates all the safety switches are ok, right? (Aka there would be no additional current draw if a safety switch was disabling ignition). Should I test the clutch safety switch? If so, how?

How do I confirm the activiation wire does not have voltage on it? What voltage would be on this when active? If there isnt power on this wire, what would prevent this? Am I even on the correct diagnostic path?

I think I am down to bad safety switch (unlikely), something blocking the activation of the starter, starter ...

Ill keep plugging away, but I am out of my element diagnosing this. Any help would be great

 

[DougCabinCreek]

Shorter summary (see previous post for details).

Kubota B2150 won’t crank. Here is what I have done
- new battery
- battery grounded and charged
- fuses all ok (2-15amp, starter fusible link)
- glow plugs heat
- clutch saftey switch seems ok.

observations
- when ingnition key is turned to start (from ‘heat plugs’ or what every its callled), the dash indicator lights dim. This seems relevant.

Not sure how to proceed, but my next steps are
- see if the starter activation wire has power (will get a meter this weekend)
- if it does, diagnose starter
- if it does not, test clutch safety switch and look for other safety switches

What else should I be investigating?
Thanks in advance

 

[thebicman]

Sounds to me that the starter may be at fault. When you get a meter that will tell you if its getting power. Let the group know what you find. Good luck.

 

[rjcorazza]

I am by no means a starter expert...
On my diesel zero turns I experienced multiple starting failures last year, and just recently. Long story short, I had low voltage on the switched solenoid activation wire, which apparently was damaging the solenoid contacts when it would activate the solenoid. I installed a relay on the switched wire to get the 12v right from the battery (actually from the positive starter post). This fixes any potential low voltage problem on the switched wire.
My most recent failure was a solenoid failure that began slowly and never got to a no start condition... $17 ebay solenoid for my application. These diesel mowers run all day this time of year, and I suspect heat soak damage because the solenoid sits right under the exhaust manifold.

Anyway, check the switched wire voltage... it could still be the switch itself or wiring in between. You can also test the starter motor itself with a screwdriver, just make sure you know the pifalls and how to do it!


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[D2Cat]

I'd remove the ground wire where it attaches to the tractor frame and clean to bare metal. Might make a difference.

 

[Russell King]

You may want to remove the starter and see if it works off the tractor

You can test it or a local auto parts store can


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[KB2150Don]

When I went out one morning to start my KUBOTA B2150, I turned on the switch to activate the glow plugs. When I pushed in the starter button, it only clicked. The next problem that appeared was all indicator lights went out on the dash. I tried turning the key to engage the glow plugs...'nothing.'
After a couple of 4 letter words, got my voltmeter and checked the battery ***8211; 12.4 volts ***8211; so battery is good. I checked the battery cables, both '+' and '-'...same voltage, cables seem OK. I checked the wire from the starter button to the starter ***8211; 1.5 volts, not good. I ordered a new starter button online. It would arrive in a couple of days.

While I was waiting for that, I removed the wires from the starter button and touched them together to manually engage the starter. The Bendix (gear) on the starter came out but would not turn on 2 attempts. Either the starter is bad or the motor is locked up. Disconnected the battery cable just in case the motor starts when I turn it over with a ratchet wrench, turned over fine. That is the best thing that has happened on this project so far! I removed the starter and took it to a shop in the area for a rebuild. He put the starter in a vise, grounded the starter case hooked 24 volts to battery cable stud then jumpered this to connector that comes from the starter button. Bendix (gear) came out and turned over. It made a clicking sound when it turned over. He indicated that the solenoid in the starter had worn the case on the starter from the back and forth movement. Rebuild would take a day or 2. He called me the next afternoon and said it was ready. Next morning the starter button came in. Installed the starter button and replaced both wires to and from the button and replaced the starter.

Pushed in the starter button and turned on key to use glow plugs, 'nothing.' Back to square 1. Checked the battery with voltmeter ***8211; 12.4 volts ***8211; it is OK. Checked both battery cables to and from the battery, 'nothing.' Replaced both battery cable ends using lugs to attach cables to cable ends. Tried starting procedure again ***8211; no dash lights came on but started and worked fine. Removed covering from wire looms above the starter, replaced all spliced wires by soldering all splices together and covering with shrink wrap. Installed 12 Ga wire with weatherproof fuse holder with 30 amp fuse in wire to glow plugs. Covered all this wiring with new loom covers. Turned on key, dash lights came on, held glow plug light on for about 1 minute, pushed in starter button, fired just like it is supposed to. Has been running good ever since.

 

[SidecarFlip]

FYI, 12.4 volts static on a flooded cell starting batter is not charged. In fact it's discharged. You need to be seeing around 13 to 13.5 volts static.

 

[rentthis]

You were bushhogging. Did you turn off the pto switch?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You were bushhogging. Did you turn off the pto switch?

Careful the OP was a year ago, one would hope he got it running already
Yea I know, someone dug up and old post.