B2100 cranks and cranks won't start

jward

New member

Equipment
1996 B2100,60"deck,4 ft blade
Jan 22, 2011
11
0
0
Canton,Ohio
I've got a b2100 that cranks and cranks, blows black smoke, but doesn't want to start. It cranks slow even with a good battery. I pulled the injectors and had them tested and they're good. Glow plugs are fine. Compression is good. If I put 200 amps to it, the starter will get going fast enough it'll finally fire, but even after it runs awhile and is warm, if I shut it off, it'll crank and crank slow and not seem to be fast enough for it to start like I said it bellows out black smoke. Have you guys ever had a weak starter? The injection timing seems to be right I I pulled the flywheel site off and watched the fuel at the pump while I had the lines off. Thanks for any help, this thing has me baffled it runs great once it starts.
 

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,745
2,551
113
Bedford - VA
I would say you have a "connection" problem......battery? I would swap one out - you say "good" battery??? How you know it is good? Clean the connections, especially the grounds on the frame/engine. Slow turning is either, weak battery, friction in bearing systems, or electrical problems(solenoid-starter). I am gonna go with "A" or "C" - A battery that turns over a gas engine, might NOT be enough amps to turn over 3 cylinder 18:1 compression diesel. So check connections, clean em all bright and tight.

Report back if when you find the problem:)
 

lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
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Do a voltage drop test. Take your digital volt-ohm meter, put one probe on the positive battery POST (not the cable clamp) and the other on the starter big terminal. Have someone turn the engine over with the key. Should see less than 1v drop. Much more than that, your battery cable is junk and will need to be replaced, OR there is a connection issue between the battery cable and the battery. Or between the cable & starter terminal. I like to do the same thing with the ground cable as well, and this will tell you if the ground connection is any good.

If drop test comes out less than 1v (should be a LOT less than 1v), you'll be looking at the voltage at battery while cranking. DVOM probes on the positive and negative battery posts. Have someone crank the engine. You want to see more than 10.5V. Significantly less-battery is weak.

Still cranks slow? You've eliminated the battery, the battery cables and connections, so the only thing left is the starter-and yes, I've seen them get weak and crank slow-but it's not common. Not at all. You want to eliminate everything else. Autozone can't test those little starters properly. For that matter, they can't test a battery properly either. Can they do anything properly? I am wondering-based on my personal experiences as of lately.

One other thought: Is the engine free? I mean, can you turn the fan blade and turn the engine easily? Shouldn't be much resistance until you hit a compression stroke.
 

Tooljunkie

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L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
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60
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
I wouldnt grab a plastic fan in an attempt to roll an engine over. Be buying a new fan next.

My battery was weak, would only start with a boost.
Watch voltage while cranking. No less than 10 volts.
Less then 10 , battery doesent have the oomph.
Dragging starter isnt common but sometimes they do.
Best to report back with your findings.
BTW, a weak battery is the most common cause to starter failure.
 

jward

New member

Equipment
1996 B2100,60"deck,4 ft blade
Jan 22, 2011
11
0
0
Canton,Ohio
Thanks guys I'm gonna check it out this afternoon. The motor is free for sure, like I said I barred it over checking the timing. I'm gonna go thru all the wiring. I appreciate the help, I'll let you know what I come up with.