Hi all, new here. I have a B21 that will start and run while key held in start position but when key is released to the run position it quits. I have removed the Ignition sw and cleaned it ( this fixed the same problem about a year ago) but it still is doing the same thing. I have ordered a new Sw but am woundering if there could be something else to check. Thanks TomG
B21 starts but will not stay running
- Thread starter TomG
- Start date
Are you for sure it's not a fuel problem. If you know that for sure I would check the fuel cut off at the pump. If my memory serves me correct this model cuts off with the key doesn't it? If so it could be a problem with cut off and not the switch. It should move the fuel stop on the pump as soon as you turn the key on. I can hear mine click as soon as the key is turned. If it doesn't move check it with a meter and you will know for sure if it has voltage or not. If it has power and doesn't move you will have located your problem.
Thanks, I will have to check that. I did replace the Sw and that didn't fix it. I looked at the solenoid on the back of the pump, and it has three wires going to it so maybe one is start, one for run and the third ground, is that correct? I will pick up a metter tonight and see if I have 12V on any lug with the key on.
Sounds like it might be a bad solenoid or possibly a wire. When you check it with the meter you will know for shure. If you have long jumpers you can do this your self but a second person is best in the seat while you have the meter.
Key off, one of the wires will be checked and found as a ground. Turn key to RUN (not start) and you should hear an audible CLICK noise as the solenoid bangs open. If you don't then with the key still in RUN check for voltage at the remainging wire conntections, one should be hot. The remaining wire will only be hot with the key in START.
Sounds as if only the START side is working and the RUN is not. Confirm voltage at the proper settings. If it's there when it needs to be then you have a bad solenoid.
Hope this helps,
Scott
Key off, one of the wires will be checked and found as a ground. Turn key to RUN (not start) and you should hear an audible CLICK noise as the solenoid bangs open. If you don't then with the key still in RUN check for voltage at the remainging wire conntections, one should be hot. The remaining wire will only be hot with the key in START.
Sounds as if only the START side is working and the RUN is not. Confirm voltage at the proper settings. If it's there when it needs to be then you have a bad solenoid.
Hope this helps,
Scott
Thanks Scott,
I checked the votage at the connector and had 12V on one wire, removed the soldniod and it did not actuate when key was turned on, using a hot lead from Bat I could get one wire to actuate the soldniod but not the other. PS tractor runs fine with soldniod removed, had to stick it back in to shut it down. Heading out now to find a new solniod.
Tom
I checked the votage at the connector and had 12V on one wire, removed the soldniod and it did not actuate when key was turned on, using a hot lead from Bat I could get one wire to actuate the soldniod but not the other. PS tractor runs fine with soldniod removed, had to stick it back in to shut it down. Heading out now to find a new solniod.
Tom
Tom,
Good luck on your adventures today. Sure sounds like you are on the right track. Please keep us updated
Scott
Good luck on your adventures today. Sure sounds like you are on the right track. Please keep us updated
Scott
If you have changed the igniton switch It sounds to me like you could have the wires mixed up on it.
If you hear the solenoid click when you jump power into it and it will start with the key in the start position,that suggests to me the the solenoid is ok.
What about linking the wire that you know activates the solenoid when power is applied to the terminal that becomes live on the ign sw when the key is in the run position?
If the ign SW is wired correctly,one other point to check,are there any safety interlocks that could be stopping power getting to the solenoid eg seat switch, although these usually stop the starter motor engaging.
There is a lot to be said for an old B7100 like mine,no complicated electrics
Dave
If you hear the solenoid click when you jump power into it and it will start with the key in the start position,that suggests to me the the solenoid is ok.
What about linking the wire that you know activates the solenoid when power is applied to the terminal that becomes live on the ign sw when the key is in the run position?
If the ign SW is wired correctly,one other point to check,are there any safety interlocks that could be stopping power getting to the solenoid eg seat switch, although these usually stop the starter motor engaging.
There is a lot to be said for an old B7100 like mine,no complicated electrics
Dave
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I thought about this after I went to bed and remembered that I have a Kubota two cylinder generator that has interlocks that cut off the solenoid if the engine over-speeds/charges,oil pressure drops or water level goes low,I had not been near a Kubota tractor before buying mine a few weeks ago so don't know if anything like this would be fitted to them as an operator is mostly close by and a generator is unattended for several hours.
dave
dave
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I am sure the wires are not mixed up as I have only taken them apart at the quick disconect. I have ordered a new solenoid and will see how that works when it comes on thursday, Thanks to all on the help, I will update you when i get the new part.
TomG
TomG
The stop solenoid which is located on the right side of the motor operates as follows. The solenoid has two circuits, the first is the pick circuit which is activated while starting. The second circuit is the hold circuit which is activated when the key switch is in the run position. The hold circuit does NOT have enough power to activate the solenoid and can only hold the solenoid active once it has been energized by the start (pick) circuit. You will not hear or feel the solenoid action by turning the key to the run position. There is a low amp fuse, usually about 5 amps, for the hold circuit. The solenoid is held open when energized and shuts off fuel when deactivated. You can tempararly remove the stop solenoid to get you back to the garage and shut down the engine manually with the stop lever located just forward of the stop solenoid. Hope this helps!
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