B1700

[Shadetree605]

Well, decided to move this thread here, seeing how it will be a project as time goes. searched for about a month or so looking for an oem loader, LA301, which fits my b2100. finally found this unicorn a few days ago, just had to work out a few details on how to get it..and get it home. it came with loader, 60 inch belly mower, 3pt hitch parts. i won't say what it cost me ?..but it sure as heck was worth it !..lol. engine has blowby, i will get it into my shop, and start working on the engine. engine shows 7xx hrs ?, soo..can't be that bad ? ( yeah..if only..right ?, lol ). got the hood open yesterday, engine area, and engine looks very clean, not even the muffler is cover in rust?!. pretty much all under the hood, and in front of the engine, rad, hydro cooler...all looks to be pretty clean and rust free.

I need to do some paint removing on loader bracket/brackets, as there is alot of peeling , rust going on. once i get that done, i'll re-paint it kubota color ( if i can find some ? ). then get it mounted onto my b2100 frame. lower pic's is my b2100, i've put many of hrs and cash into fixing the hydro unit on her, then tires, rims, reg.rec, ignition switch, battery, engine oil, hydro oil, few seals, air filter, fuel filter, pretty much brought her back from the field it was sitting in when dead ?!.

 

[Shadetree605]

update: got the b1700 in the shop, started tearing it down. nasty valve cover !. but..if ya look real close at the pic of the front valves, what stands out ?..i seen it right when i lifted the valve cover off...the intake and exhaust valve rockers are not even on the push rods ?!!!. is this from something bad down in the engine ?, or..is this something common on these old engines ?. the two pic's of the fuel injection pump area, sure has a lot of fuel around there. would this be caused by the front cylinder not firing from no compression ?.

 

[Shadetree605]

kinda forgot, lol..after getting the rockers all back to where they were suppose to be ?, set them..she fired right up..and sounded like it should sound ?. if this is all that was wrong with it ?, i scored big time. PO claimed blowby, low compression on cylinder #2 ?, not sure if the front cylinder is # 2 ?, but it sure don't help when you have a dead cylinder !..lol.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sounds like you might have really scored!
Simple test, run it and crack the injector lines on top of the injectors one at a time.
You should hear a huge change in the engine, if you do it to each one and they all sound the same, then more than likely you have discovered and fixed the issue.
And #2 would be the middle of three, front is #1.

 

[Shadetree605]

Sounds like you might have really scored!
Simple test, run it and crack the injector lines on top of the injectors one at a time.
You should hear a huge change in the engine, if you do it to each one and they all sound the same, then more than likely you have discovered and fixed the issue.
And #2 would be the middle of three, front is #1.

thank you wolfman for the info !. will run that test sunday. as for the find and fix, it was pretty easy to spot the rockers off the push rods and valve springs once i removed the valve cover. i'll post results tomorrow on the injector test, i sure hope this was the problem all along?, if it was ?..then yes..i scored a home run on this tractor.

 

[jaxs]

Most problems are easy to see,,,,,,,,,if you look at the right place/think. In this case I'd probably still be looking all the wrong places. What caused you to remove the rocker arm cover?

Man I hope your luck keeps running this way.

 

[Shadetree605]

Most problems are easy to see,,,,,,,,,if you look at the right place/think. In this case I'd probably still be looking all the wrong places. What caused you to remove the rocker arm cover?

Man I hope your luck keeps running this way.

i was in the process of tearing the engine down, was told it had blowby, # 2 cylinder was low on compression ?, soo..i started by removing parts to get the rocker arm cover. when i lifted it off, very first thing i seen was the front rockers were not even on the push rods ?!. well..i can see why it was '' so called low on compression'' alright ?, dead cylinder !..lol. it wasn't cylinder # 2 though. i put the rockers back on the push rods, adjusted them, crank it over..she fired right off..sounded much better than it was running.

 

[jaxs]

Ok I understand why you pulled the cover now that you say restoration has already commenced. I assumed you were still working on loader and wouldn't have got around to this yet.

 

[Shadetree605]

Ok I understand why you pulled the cover now that you say restoration has already commenced. I assumed you were still working on loader and wouldn't have got around to this yet.

i spent the past couple days removing the loader off this b1700, its sitting in the back yard, waiting on me to install it on my b2100. i want to clean up some rust spots on the mounting brackets that bolt to the frame, and give it some fresh paint before i go installing it.

 

[Shadetree605]

Sounds like you might have really scored!
Simple test, run it and crack the injector lines on top of the injectors one at a time.
You should hear a huge change in the engine, if you do it to each one and they all sound the same, then more than likely you have discovered and fixed the issue.
And #2 would be the middle of three, front is #1.

just a update wolfman: followed your advice on cracking the injectors, when i loosened the injector on each cylinder, the engine sounded like it was gonna bog down ?, i'm guessing this is normal ?, i did all 3 injectors, and had the same sound from each one of them when i did this. my only concern now is this smoke coming from the valve cover tube, it is '' kinda '' thick at idle, but when i rev up the rpms ?, it '' almost '' goes away, i am not sure if this is normal or not ?, care to chime in on this ?..or anyone ?. i was told most diesels have some blowby, and this is normal, i have no idea ?, i'm a gas, 4-stroke guy..lol. as far as the engine sounding, it sounds great to me, cranked right up ( after i get the starter to work ? )..i have the same issue on my b2100..sometimes when cold, it just clicks at the starter, then finally i can get it to crank easy once its warm. this has nothing to do with the fuel or engine, this is a starter issue of some sort ?..i replaced the ignition switch on my b2100, and it still does it. might be a switch somewhere i overlooked ?, i'll check into this later.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

just a update wolfman: followed your advice on cracking the injectors, when i loosened the injector on each cylinder, the engine sounded like it was gonna bog down ?, i'm guessing this is normal ?, i did all 3 injectors, and had the same sound from each one of them when i did this. my only concern now is this smoke coming from the valve cover tube, it is '' kinda '' thick at idle, but when i rev up the rpms ?, it '' almost '' goes away, i am not sure if this is normal or not ?, care to chime in on this ?..or anyone ?. i was told most diesels have some blowby, and this is normal, i have no idea ?, i'm a gas, 4-stroke guy..lol. as far as the engine sounding, it sounds great to me, cranked right up ( after i get the starter to work ? )..i have the same issue on my b2100..sometimes when cold, it just clicks at the starter, then finally i can get it to crank easy once its warm. this has nothing to do with the fuel or engine, this is a starter issue of some sort ?..i replaced the ignition switch on my b2100, and it still does it. might be a switch somewhere i overlooked ?, i'll check into this later.

Yes the smoke from the valve cover breather is normal.
And congratulations it bogging down the same on all cylinders means you have a winner!
And it's starting quickly so your good all around.
I'll look at the WSM and see about the wiring.
I'll bet it has a weak solenoid circuit and is easily cured with a simple relay.

 

[Shadetree605]

Yes the smoke from the valve cover breather is normal.
And congragulations it bogging down the same on all cylinders means you have a winner!
And it's starting quickly so your good all around.
I'll look at the WSM and see about the wiring.
I'll be it has a weak solenoid circuit and is easily cured with a simple relay.

thank you very much wolfman !. i'm draining the engine oil right now, gonna give it all new filters, new hydro oil. i think you are very much correct, i got a winner..lol. engine oil was over filled, and black as all get out !. she's gonna get some new life into her...and then i will put her up for sale. before that though...got some filters and stuff to drain/change. again..thank you for your input !!.

 

[Mountainman]

The b1700 2100 2400 were known for weak voltage going to the solenoid. And yes @North Idaho Wolfman a relay was the fix for it.

 

[Shadetree605]

The b1700 2100 2400 were known for weak voltage going to the solenoid. And yes @North Idaho Wolfman a relay was the fix for it.

yu'll need to tell me where , what relay i need ?, i need to put one on each of these, kinda tired of the no-start, clicking crap..lol.

 

[Mountainman]

yu'll need to tell me where , what relay i need ?, i need to put one on each of these, kinda tired of the no-start, clicking crap..lol.

This is the relay. Mine do not have the harness just plugged into the relay but that would probably be easier

AM107421 Improvement Starter Relay Kit Replacement for John Deere Models 160 316 420 F930 160 165 RX63 https://a.co/d/djs3Jro

 

[Russell King]

yu'll need to tell me where , what relay i need ?, i need to put one on each of these, kinda tired of the no-start, clicking crap..lol.

Here is the basic directions on these relays just to explain what they do.

The starter solenoid needs to be powered to make the starter turn. The power should come in on the small wire and provide enough power but often does not provide the necessary power.

The new relay is a similar device to the solenoid and is used as an electric switch. The existing wire to the solenoid is able to reliably turn the new relay on even though it won’t reliably switch on the solenoid. The other wires on the solenoid are used to connect the battery positive to the solenoid terminal (through the new relay switch). One wire will be used to connect to ground to complete the circuit of the original solenoid wire.

The linked relay will do the job but there are others that will also work.

Hope that gives you a better general understanding of how the relay solves the situation.

 

[Shadetree605]

Here is the basic directions on these relays just to explain what they do.

The starter solenoid needs to be powered to make the starter turn. The power should come in on the small wire and provide enough power but often does not provide the necessary power.

The new relay is a similar device to the solenoid and is used as an electric switch. The existing wire to the solenoid is able to reliably turn the new relay on even though it won’t reliably switch on the solenoid. The other wires on the solenoid are used to connect the battery positive to the solenoid terminal (through the new relay switch). One wire will be used to connect to ground to complete the circuit of the original solenoid wire.

The linked relay will do the job but there are others that will also work.

Hope that gives you a better general understanding of how the relay solves the situation.

thank you, i'll look to get 2 relays, kinda tired of this '' no start '', it gets old after awhile..lol. i know the battery is good, starter was replaced ( thinking that was the problem back then ), then just the other day, a new ignition switch, same thing, turn key to get glow plugs lit, then turn a tad more..only to not hear it crank over ?..sigh..lol. i will check out these relays for sure !..thanks again for the info !.

 

[Shadetree605]

This is the relay. Mine do not have the harness just plugged into the relay but that would probably be easier

AM107421 Improvement Starter Relay Kit Replacement for John Deere Models 160 316 420 F930 160 165 RX63 https://a.co/d/djs3Jro

bought 2, one for my b2100, and one for this b1700. did not buy them from amazon though ?, got them from ebay. will update the starting issue once i get them installed.

 

[Shadetree605]

update: ok, got the loader mounting bracket all washed down, grinded the bad rust, paint off, then sprayed it down with kubota orange, sheshh..25 bucks a can from the dealer ?!. used one can so far, gave it a nice good base coat. will hit it again later on. here it is after the grinding, then some painted pics. got the b1700 engine oil changed, engine oil filter changed, hydro oil and filter changed, had to order the air filter, and that pesky odd o-ring that goes on the deverter block under the cap that has 2 bolts that cover the deverter block. did all that, then started in on this part of the b2100 loader work.

 

[Mountainman]

update: ok, got the loader mounting bracket all washed down, grinded the bad rust, paint off, then sprayed it down with kubota orange, sheshh..25 bucks a can from the dealer ?!. used one can so far, gave it a nice good base coat. will hit it again later on. here it is after the grinding, then some painted pics. got the b1700 engine oil changed, engine oil filter changed, hydro oil and filter changed, had to order the air filter, and that pesky odd o-ring that goes on the deverter block under the cap that has 2 bolts that cover the deverter block. did all that, then started in on this part of the b2100 loader work.

Looking good. Before you know your long awaited dream will be a reality